PHOTOS HERE–>> San Andres to Providencia, Colombia OR HERE https://goo.gl/photos/3Xt1rivx4GYdKQBf9
As I write this reflective piece for the blog I am sitting in the cockpit while we sail across the Honduras Banks towards the Hobbies. The sky and sea are the brightest mixes of blue and dolphins have been playing alongside the boat for an hour now. We have a rolling following sea of which we are surfing at approximately 6knots. Life is good, weather fine and we should be in the Hobbies too soon, early hours of the morning and will have to hove too and wait for 1st light.
On route to Providencia we were sailing with Colin and Anne on their sailboat Landmark. The whole morning was a very quiet sail until I spotted a whale, then a pod of whales, plus we had dolphin swimming along with us.
We had arranged to take photos of each others boats, so in the middle of the “photo shoot” ziiiinnnggg!! the rods sound out the alert of fish on line. Down with the camera, John to the 
rods, Jen to attend to Chico and the wheel. It looked to be 2 great fish, but unfortunately the 1st broke the line and the 2nd slipped the hook. Chico looked at John with a very disdainful look. Meanwhile Colin on Landmark was “shooting” the boat and fishing. Then just before we started to head in ziiiinnnggg!! again. this time we caught a small tunny – Chico was very happy, next we caught a big barracuda which John released.
Meanwhile back to our time in Providencia. We spent 9 days there and really enjoyed all of everyday.
Our first walk took us along the shoreline of Isla Santa Catalina towards Morgan’s Head, but stopped at the fort, Fort Aury. The walk takes you over the charming foot bridge called Lovers Lane (Puente de los Enamorados), and 
right along the shoreline where a there is a well laid path of pavers decorated with symbols of plants.
To one side you look out over the shallows to the very attractive anchorage with the village in the background. On the other side are small local homes 
ranging from traditional wooden to new concrete design. Most homes being gaily painted with pretty gardens, others being more the working home of the fisherman or the laundress. Between the homes run pathway 
towards the hills or mangroves areas with crabs and lizards scuttling around. It was a lovely walk, but being the afternoon it was hot as in the direct sun with little shade.
At the end of the path we climbed a steep stairway to the statue of what I assume is the Virgin Mary that looks out over the anchorage and village. There we enjoyed the 
shade below the statue with the lovely breeze that was blowing and admired the magnificent view of 360 degrees. It really is a spectacular island. Above the statue was the remains of Fort Aury. We clambered up the hillside to the cannons, which were pointed out over the Harbour and agreed it was too hot to venture any further along the pathway.
We followed the path back to the bridge and then continued on in the other direction under the shade of 
the mangroves. Again the pathway was interesting, at the end we found a sign telling us it was the site of where Protestants were burned and pirates were hung in the 1800s. An odd mix to hang and burn?
Back on the boat we changed into bathing suits and went snorkeling off 
Morgan’s Head. Named after the famous pirate Henry Morgan who sailed these waters. This is a very scenic area of Isla Catalina the shoreline being covered in 
coconut palms, the water crystal clear with the coral reef shining through. The snorkeling here was average. We did see many reef fish, schools of Jacks and Fry, a very large Barracuda and a good assortment of juvenile fish, but there 
was much algae which we assumed meant the water was just too still and hot. We headed around Isla Catalina in the dingy rounding the whole island on our way back to the boat. It is a very photogenic area.
One day, along with Colin and Anne off of svLandfall, 
we hired a mule. Setting off clockwise around the island, (there is only one road around the island). We stopped off first of all at an amazing looking bus stop in the shape of a octopus. (We noticed 
later that all the bus stops are of unique design). This also was the entrance to one of the popular beaches. We walked down to the beach where we found a hut and some locals selling local music and 
trinkets. We ended up buying a CD and a pair of Lionfish fin earrings, which are quite unusual. The beach was empty but looked to be a popular spot. The 2-story hut was the home of the entrepreneur who lived there supplying drinks and trinkets to visitors. This structure was quite a colourful 
structure made from what looked like painted driftwood.
Next stop was for mid morning coffee for the coffee drinkers. We found a lovely hotel with a grassy terrace by the water where we were served – coffee for 3 and a sour sap fresh juice for myself. There we looked out at the divers setting off from the beach and chatted. Refreshed we stopped at Southwest Bay nick named the
horseracing beach. Once down on the beach one could see why it was used for the traditional horse racing being wide and totally flat.
We drove on and found ourselves at the other end of 
Southwest beach where again we walked this time watching the fishermen that were cleaning a huge catch of red snapper on a boat just off the beach.
By this time it was lunchtime and again we pulled off the road and followed a lane down to a beach – Bahia Manzanillo. Here we found a palm tree lined beach with an interesting bar/eatery. It was called Roland’s Place and when we first walked up 
Roland the owner was lying in 
his hammock swinging comfortably behind the bar. He saw potential customers and quickly jumped from his hammock and into action.
Here we sat under the palm trees at a table and ate pan-fried fish with yucca and coconut rice, while watching birds eating from a coconut drink that had been left. It was a splendid meal!
Heading off again we continued along the shore stopping to look out at the viewpoints and the scenery. The homes that we saw were mainly quaint wooden traditional homes where one could see the
various owners had taken much pride in their property. It was a lovely drive around Providencia.
Another day we set out in the morning and walked back along the shoreline towards Morgan’s Head. As it
was morning the walk was far cooler and we passed the Virgin Mary on the hillside and the fort.
Taking the pathway down to Fort Bay and up the other side following the trail all the way to Morgan’s Head. This is a wonderful walk, the scenery being just lovely. All along the way we found mango trees 
dropping ripe mangoes. John was thrilled to be able to pick up and eat ripe mangoes as he walked. On the return journey we collected a pile of mangoes, which we later picked up, from the beach where
we stacked them.
After lunch that day we snorkeled off the reef along Morgan’s channel. The 
snorkeling was good in areas and then disappointing in other areas. Unfortunately there is much coral bleaching and there looks to be large areas of damaged reef, maybe by boats.
Our friends Colin and Anne had directions to Pablo Escobar’s 
home on Isla Catalina. (Pablo Emilio Escobar Gaviria was a notorious Colombian drug lord whose cartel, at the height of his career, supplied an estimated 80% of the cocaine smuggled into the United States.) They had walked there and said it was a good walk, so borrowing the directions we set off one morning. The route was written in pencil on a scrap of paper directing us 1st to take the pathway just after the green restaurant on your right. Follow it for 5 minutes to the T-junction, head right continuing for 8 minutes to the Y junction, etc. The pathway starts out as a concrete path then quickly changes to a 
regular trail through the trees. It was an excellent walk.
The pathways connected and crossed the island, passing along the 
coast and then tracking uphill along an old stone walkway that was well overgrown to a wreck of what must have once been a splendid house on the hill. The property over looks the bay below and the whole island, but being so overgrown what once must have been excellent views were now glimpses through the trees. I would say it 
was a 2 story home with evidence of at least 2 bathrooms, an outlook from the roof area and a 
living/kitchen onto porch space, plus there was a pool. It must have been a lovely secluded, private home. We explored and can now say we visited Pablo Escobale’s home in Providencia.
We collected mangoes on the way back to make mango chutney. The trail had again been one with 
dozens of mango trees with hundreds of ripe mangos. John was in mango heaven! So now we make mango chutney.
Our last day in Providencia we went with Colin and Anne plus 
two other couples to climb the peak. Which is 1,000 feet tall.
Our guide Hawkins aka Horseman met us at the dock at 7:00am to head to the trailhead. Hawkins is a naturalist; he eats nothing produced, canned or packaged, only fresh foods, and fish. He used to eat iguana when he was a child, but gave that up. His other name is Horseman as
he has the most horses on the island and his horses are some of the racers.
We started at the trailhead with Hawkins telling us about the birds and the various medicinal plants. He continued throughout the walk to point out the lizards, birds and plants and to tell us their uses. Plus he gave us a history of the area/island and background on the island.
Hawkins was a brilliant guide; the way he cut a coconut and opened it with his machete/cutlass was truly masterful. We ate mangoes as well as the coconut along the way.
The trail itself is fairly comfortable walking with a few steep inclines, but as it was shady and we had cloud cover 
it wasn’t too hot. We wound our way to the top, which as expected had an amazing view across 360-degree view across the island and the seas beyond.
If it had been a sunny day the view would have been stunning, but it was pretty special anyway. Hawkins is at present 
reestablishing another way to head back, but for now we had to head back the same way. Making the whole trek 14 kilometers long. It was a highly recommendable hike; Hawkins is a brilliant guide and ambassador for Providencia.
Our time was up on Providencia, but we hope to head back to that wonderful island.
Dwell on the beauty of life. Watch the stars and see yourself running with them. – Marcus Aurelius
We’re the creators of our own experience – remembering this, and living our lives from this perspective, empowers us. – Mike Robbins
Our time was spent 
up supplies so this required a 2 hour bus ride to get to a 
could also carry piles of groceries and crates of beer.
container into liter plastic bottles the desired amount of fuel, be it gasoline, diesel or what ever. This is on the porch, the fuel containers/barrels are kept in the front room of the house where you will also see babies being cared for, children, TV playing and life going on as normal. Just another day in Panama!
white beach we were surprised by a small strip of sand under the trees with houses above and cows grazing. It’s never as you imagine.
Finally John felt we could head off, probably having to motor for the first part, but leave we did.
motoring, and the seas were a bit steep, but we were finally off. The first 24 hours were fine, we even 
miles and part of a small group of cays. It has an English history that started with the Puritans who were also involved in New England. There is a history of piracy, Henry Morgan being just one notable pirate to hide away there. There is a short Spanish history in Colonial times, then settlers from other Caribbean islands also settled including many former slaves from Jamaica. Plus the island has been part of the 
duty free shops. I prefer the older part of town where the shops are small and jammed pack with any type of thing you might need. This is where you find the locals shopping, the bargains and the excellent fresh fruit. We even saw the famous 
that are up on
those rocks and reefs so guessing there must also be many boats lost on these shores too. The beaches along this shoreline are 
of the beautiful beaches along the way.
rest of the day was spent finding necessary parts for Steve’s water maker and picking up our heavier supplies like crates of beer to stock up the boats. All in all we had a fun day!
We had not been able to see the famed 
miles in the hot sun we found the hill. Up we climbed passing a very untidy neighborhood, trash everywhere, stray dogs, cats, kittens, and kids. A totally different side of the neat and tidy San Andres of the shoreline roadway. Maybe this is why the mule/golf cart can’t go up there.
Finally reaching the top we went along a little bit further
Gavin and Katie’s daughter 
around. She is incredibly interested in everyone and everything.
Such a inquisitive, lovely, cuddly, baby girl. We visited as much as we could wanting to spend as much time with Lily as possible.
In Bermuda Good Friday is a special day.
materials.
Other important traditions, which we enjoy, are 
have a wonderful day together.
The next day while at my son’s house we had a phone call from Westmeath where my Dad is a resident/patient. My Dad had fallen and had a bump on his head, would we come and have a look and take him to be checked.
bad for some years now, but that day it was very bad. Plus he kept repeating certain behaviors.
Gavin and Katie’s new boat
We went towards 
conditions were beautiful with wonderful reflections upon the water.
Walks with our dogs:
grave is situated in St James Churchyard
of the surrounding graves are also of extended family members. It was a Sunday and so we could hear the service going on inside the old church. The churchyard is quite a lovely one with huge cedars of 100s of years old.
public dock
out of Dockyard and 
Gavin
was wonderful!! And then it was time to return to Aeeshah.
points almost a vertical assault. What had happened 
over the few hundred years since the battery had been built was erosion of the hillside. It was now a 
gorge, where one has to climb the sides. It is a pretty hike as the steep hillside is grassy and looks out over the entire bay. We reach the battery but it is in disrepair so to climb into it one needs to enter the moat and climb the walls. Not looking safe we gave that a skip. Plus I had learnt by then that all kinds of wasps live in nests in such walls and they do not like to be disturbed.
originally being brought to the top of the ridge those hundreds of years ago?
1st John explored the upper fort again, climbing its walls and checking the view.
Then into the jungle we went. We found this path again more or less followed a ridge. I think the property line –barbed wire fence – that had been erected created it. It was wonderful hiking through the enormous trees, again listening to the birds. Sometimes we actually saw the birds, but most time they are well hidden in the foliage. We did see 
plenty of interesting insects and spiders. John being the “leader” was plagued
by spiders and their webs, guess that comes with being the leader. We could hear the Howler Monkeys off in the distance and really hoped to see them, but never did. Well we hiked about an hour and a half trying to reach the other end, wherever that might be just to reach basically a dead-end. We could have bush-wacked our way onwards, but felt in the heat, with less than half our water left we should head back. The journey back took just 45 mins.
Linton Bay Marina
Once we were in the marina we were able to enjoy our bikes. Sorren too has a bike so we set off to see what we could find.
(mind you I usually push it up the steep hills). We passed the Panamarine entrance, continued on to a small fishing settlement,
Jose del Mar,
Isla Grande
shoreline which goes from one end of the island to the other.
Heading east we enjoyed the quaint shoreline buildings. They were all colours with multiple decorations from shells to tiles to make each distinct in its own right. The islanders obviously take pride in their properties. There was no trash, which 
was a refreshing change from the mainland.
Having reached the pathway heading up we assumed correctly it lead to:
up we climbed to the top.
Reaching the top, I kid you not, 
headed down. We then set off along the same path back the way we had walked and then 
onto the other end of Isla Grande. I was very scenic and easy to see why it was so popular with the local tourists.
Catching local busses
region it requires traveling to the nearest ATM. This is a over an hour in a bus, usually two hours, or an hour in a fast taxi. The least expensive is a bus ride for $2.00 as opposed to maybe over $40.00. Off on the bus we had to travel several times.
the local busses. An experience that everyone should try. The busses are old USA school busses which were left when the Americans left Panama. Each driver has decorated the busses according to his taste, (never seen a female bus driver yet). He drives as he feels speeding up to super faaaassst then for no apparent reason creating along veeerry slowly. Our 1st bus had 
outsides are normally decorated with extravagant 
pictures usually including Christ, I guess as a Blessing. The music again is up to the driver’s taste. This can be mind blowingly loud and ugly as in our 1st bus ride or wonderfully rhythmic Spanish tunes. One is lucky to get a seat as the busses are normally full, so try to catch them early. The locals are all 
very friendly and the atmosphere on the bus is one of terrific endurance. Our 
trips took us to 
Panama City
Panama City.
We visited the 
and enjoyed wandering around looking at the old architecture.
and reduced most of the city to ruins. A new city was built nearby at Cerro Ancon in 1673 where today the old quarter is closed to traffic and very pleasant to wander around the old streets.
We found a fantastic Yogurt cafe where you could choose any flavors of yogurt, all natural and healthy, then put any types of toppings on your yogurt. There we had a wonderful refreshing treat!
American business center.
There are the world’s tallest residential buildings – over 100 floors – other skyscrapers of very interesting design make an interesting skyline.
We went back to Nargana to get some water
Saturday many of the Nargana town folks were also headed up the river off to get water and for the ladies to 
do their laundry. Heading up the river is just lovely, the jungle is beautiful, the bird noises are incredible, seeing them is not easy unless they are brightly coloured. Butterflies and insects fly all round and the water is so clear you can see the river fish. Once upriver we went 
upstream from those doing laundry and having a wash and decantered 
our water. It was a fun expedition.
countryside is very lovely.
Shelter Bay Marina
using wifi and laundry at last, and going for bike rides and outings.
we saw tiny spider monkeys leaping 
across the lane from tree to tree. There were virtually no others along the lane and riding under the jungle canopy is lovely even in the high 80s. The beach where we stopped was completely deserted and we had a very nice walk along it. I was particularly happy to find many great shells, cowries and tulips to name a few.
Another bike ride we took was 
the observation tower in the jungle
many birds and insects but seeing them is really difficult unless they are brightly coloured they are well camouflaged in the dense jungle canopy. We arrived at the end of the trail and found no tower. However you could see out somewhat over the jungle. We later found out the platform, built by the Americans had been there 20 years ago but like 
much of the American base it has returned to the jungle. The park service just keeps the trail open now.
Embera Village visit.
a visit to an 
of Panama. During the colonial era they proved to be a valuable ally of Maroons, such as Bayano and Felipillo. The legacy of the symbolic relationship is still alive and well in the upbeat tempo of their music, product of the African drums. Embera people are the only indigenous people in Panama 
that have the drum as a part of their musical instruments.
We were taken by 
ride to and along the shores of the 
craftwork was displayed. 
and set ablaze at the end and the cooking pot is put on top. It is a very hard wood and lasts several weeks before they need new logs.
What was most interesting to me was their history. They lived originally in the region where the Gatun Lake is now found. When it was decided to build the canal it was necessary to flood the area thus creating 
what is now the huge Gatun Lake. Around the lake was to be all 
warning. They were told they could continue to live in the area but could no longer hunt the deer or wildlife, nor could the farm 
their rice and other crops. So the Embera peoples decided to adapt to the new lifestyle. They create their wonderful crafts, trade, and 
work in nearby communities while still 
following their original culture. Asking about their matrimonial “system” it was explained that no two from the same village or community can “marry”. The leader said 
he set off at 14 crossed the country and found his wife in the village we were in. He then had to prove his worth by building a home and establishing himself before she would become his. Quite progressive thinking I think.
very tasty, cooked banana and plantain all in a banana leaf cone.
plus allowed to wander around the village. Watching the children was a highlight. They are 
very innocent and so very lovely.
Our first stop along the coast of 
the Thursday late afternoon. They went through a series 
of locks and rose upwards towards the
this in each lock. He said it was really easy. They spent the night on Gatun Lake tied to a buoy. The pilot arrived at 10:00 the next day, (only 3 hours late), and they crossed the lake. The lake he said was very beautiful with just jungle at the sides and islands that again were just jungle. They could hear the howler monkeys. 
Meanwhile I stayed 
where I started stocking up with supplies.
scream like monsters
some vultures. These 
to 
the American base, but it was 
We went to the 
1597 under the name of the 
restaurants. The ruins of the 
is encroaching and reclaiming the area. The fort on the southern side of the bay is being restored. It was interesting to walk around and see all the canons facing out to sea. In fact in all the forts in the Portobello area there are 
at least a few dozen canons still facing out to sea. We visited the old church and saw the famous Black Jesus who was brought to Portobello hundreds of years ago and today is reputed to be responsible for miracles, hundreds come to pray to him.
We hiked to the top of the fort above the boat. This is a 3-layered fortification. The 1st being at sea level 
then up a steep incline is the second level and after a longer even steeper climb we found the top 
fortification that looks out over the whole bay. The view is just amazing. Once again we could hear the howler monkeys making off in the jungle around us 
and saw dozen of beautiful butterflies and all kinds of exotic birds. We watched the leaf cutter ants as they trudged along with massive leaves attached to their back. Their pathways are several inches wide. They are quite impressive insects.
Leaving Portobello we decided to 
cat sitter for Chico. Our plan was to visit 
the return monkeys! 
channels and found them to be exceptionally beautiful. Took a hike to the little 
San Blas Islands: Lemmon Cays
We headed to the 
While there we walked around Waisaidup and found a few Gunas 
living there, probably to tend the huge coconut forest. The waters were all colours of turquoise with the shallows rolling ashore it was absolutely idyllic.
were magnificent corals of all types, schools of all different fish, eels in the rocks the reef was alive with life. 
dolphin chasing the school of Jacks, which were chasing the Fry as pelicans swooped and plunged into the water. Chico was very entertained with the life around the boat. This is definitely an anchorage where we will return and spend more time.
Being mindful that the weather was deteriorating, that we had not had wifi for some days and we needed supplies we moved to 
The sail to the San Blas islands was a long tedious one
easy way to reach these islands, they have been cut off from “progress” as we call it. The associated mainland is called 
tribes/settlements of bamboo-thatched huts that each has an elder or tribal leader in charge. Most leaders do not allow any television, some do not allow any loud music and all maintain their traditional cultural ways. The people are all very small being one of the smallest peoples in the world.
which comprises of intricately sewn layers of embroidered cloth in vibrant colors. The men go in their dugout canoes to farm, fish or collect coconuts. There are schools for the children. The elder children help by doing laundry, child minding and such chores.
Approaching this island was 
there, hoping we would arrive. They had sailed in the day before from where we had last seen them.
This is the 
with difficulty. I think the number one rule for sailing/traveling by water here is to follow the waypoints in the 
After arriving at
went ashore to have a look around, plus to get sim cards, which we had heard, were available. We wandered the village from one end to the other through the tiny pathways of huts, past family compounds and guna villagers busily going about their affairs. Everyone was extremely 
friendly, wanting to practice their limited English and wishing us 
children were playing through the village, the boys flying kites and the girls with balls.
fellow in a corner with a huge shotgun he was polishing up and children playing on a mat on the earth floor. A surreal situation for a digicel! Out of one hut a lady sold us the sim cards for a few dollars. Plus minutes for a few more dollars. At another hut I bought bread rolls for 8 cents each. We were happy with our purchases.
Aridup
scary. However we live on the edge anyway. When arriving we were struck again by the beauty of these islands. 
reef, been holed and sank. The 18 people aboard were 
rescued. This boat regularly traveled these waters with guests. The Gunas had coiled the rigging and had beers they had salvaged.
the island, met Lynne and Eric with the boys, had a swim and went back to Aeeshah for a very rolly night. This is not a good anchorage. That evening we were surprised by a call on the VHF radio. It was 
We arrived in the morning and found it to be a very beautiful calm anchorage surrounded by tiny uninhabited islands. Our friends had made a 
Some 
lights and set sail back home. I was quite worried about him. Well he turned up at Bad’s boat a short while later having lost his oar and 
could not row his canoe home so borrowed one and set off again.
at his 
find Arkin passed out with 
the world’s worse hang over in bed. We were shown the 
molas Arkin’s wife was working on and met his daughters too. A lovely family that work very hard to make a living. I delivered our “gifts” (some clothes, lollypops, candies, a cap and such) and off we set to do the river tour ourselves.
We found the river after some help and up it we travelled for some miles. It really was picturesque. The reflections were wonderful, birds were everywhere and it was shady and cool. An
excellent tour we gave ourselves, we went until we could go no further. That afternoon we went snorkeling and exploring on one of 
the nearby islands with Sorren. Again it was a lovely day,
surrounding islands and swam. Walking around the island, looking for shells and doing all the pass times we love to do. Again each island is just so very special and beautiful!
the beach a canoe arrived with a family and 2 dogs. They all proceeded to swim, the children having a great time. Again they were such friendly happy people. The children were very natural with no pretenses, practicing their English on us. Before they left they gave us some yucca and plantains/bananas.
We walked around the settlement, were able to find a “store” and buy a few bits and pieces. Plus we were able to buy some bread rolls, diesel and order water. The major bonus was the internet/wifi. There was enough signal to be able to call home, receive emails and get the weather, whoopee!!
Diablo
Up the river we slowly went avoiding sunken 
trunks, branches, and mud banks. This river was much wider than the last one, but just a beautiful. We saw many different birds of all types 
from woodpeckers to vultures to humming birds, birds of prey, and water birds.
bigger wooden boat with containers heading up river. As we got to about 3 miles up river we could see that these local boats/canoes with the containers were actually collecting the water for the settlement. Yep, the water we had ordered was coming from up river, hummmm….. So it was decided that some bleach would be added to our water, much to my dismay. When we felt we could go no longer we stopped at a riverbank where the boys had a run around with their Frisbee. It was a lovely morning up the Rio Diablo.
Green Island/Kanjildup and surrounding islands
Years.
the area with Kay and John. It is truly a very beautiful group of islands. 
Being closer to some sort of civilization there is a wifi connection, the Gunas make deliveries of vegetables, fish and lobster plus they have dug a fresh water well on one of the islands. We really enjoyed our time there.
Porvenir
islands, on one is immigration and customs office, a very small place to stay and an airstrip, (which only the smallest of planes could land on). However again it is very lovely.
Chichime Cays Eastern Lemmon Cays
islands on one a few Guna families live and on the other the Gunas have built huts for tourists to visit and even stay over night. Therefore it is also somewhat busy with the local taxi boats and the carter boat traffic. However that really didn’t bother us.
We 
lovely shells; saw many rays, an octopus or 2 plus numerous fish. It really is so shallow over the reef and grass banks that scuba would never be necessary. On the outer reef there was a wreck of a sailboat, which John swam over the shallow 
reef, (about 2 – 1 foot deep), he of course climbed on top. We found several other wrecked sailboats on the bottom around the deeper reef. It really shows how treacherous the reefs here can be when you approach from out at sea. We also visited some of the 
Cartagena, Isla Del Rosario, Islas de San Bernardo/Tintipan and Sapzurro 
The passage from Santa Marta to Cartagena
protected harbour. There are 2 busy massive cargo docks with ultra modern automated cranes where enormous cargo ships are constantly being loaded and unloaded. One of which is located on 
next to 
the evening
weddings
tour
way around the old city.
Palacio de la Inquisicion/ Palace of the inquisition:
was to stamp out heresy. The Holy Offices main job was to instigate proceedings against such crimes as witchcraft, magic, and blasphemy, (anyone who did not conform to the Catholic Church). The culprits when found guilty were publicly executed; about 800 people were put to death here. There are some of the tools of torture on display, plus the guillotine and the hang mans noose.
Was a convent that was founded by Jesuits. The name was changed to honor San Pedro Claver who became known as the Apostle of the Blacks, or the Slave of Slaves. He was a monk who spent his life ministering to the enslaved Africans 
and he was the first person to be canonized in the New World for his amazing acts of kindness. The convent is a 3-story museum now along side the church. It is a beautiful colonial building with excellent displays. We enjoyed walking around and viewing the exhibits especially the San Pedro Claver rooms where he actually lived. You can still see his body as it lies under the alter in the church.
is a fortress, in fact it is the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies. The original fort was commissioned in 1630; it was enlarged over the next 100 years and more until 
it became an impregnable fortress. We spent a good many hours exploring all the levels, walkways tunnels and terraces of this massive fort. There were great views across the city too.
Are the thick old city walls that were started to be built towards the end of the 16th century after an attack by Sir Francis Drake. They took 2 centuries to build and are absolutely massive. John and I walked them in 2 segments, it was a long, hot, walk each time and truly illustrated just what an 
astonishing piece of military engineering Las Muralles are.
The outer walled town is exciting to visit too. The lanes, small shops, shady plaza and graffiti were fun to see. During the evening it is also full of street entertainment, which we really enjoyed.
Malls
ready for the masses to enjoy so we went for the end by the sea wall and enjoyed some time on the beach. Another evening, John and I were so desperate to cool down we went back that way and had a swim. The water was tepid, but did help to lower our body 
temperature.
A dingy drift
Isla Del Rosario
Islas de San Bernardo:
are a small chain of islands that include 
We enjoyed a snorkel in clear water for the first time since Bonaire. There were lots of fish, healthy coral and large orange and yellow starfish. Eric took the boys to the beach on his kayak while we wallowed in the warm water the dogs played Frisbee.
to sail. A decision was made to sit tight and await the supposed 
winds arriving the next day. We all set off in the dinghies to explore the few nearby islands. Tintipan is just a maze of bays with beaches and mangrove channels leading to more of the kind. There are very nice properties
spread out along the way and supposedly they belong to the rich Colombians who visit ocasionally and have workers/caretakers living and maintaining them in the meantime. There were some littler islets that were just floating buildings and looked to be for tourists. We circled Santa Cruz and were amazed by the way the whole island is just a mass of wooden and tin buildings. There were people everywhere, it looked like a big mess to me, but I’m assuming they have nowhere else to live.
Heading out:
reefs and in the deep blue. That was when the wind died and then came round to being right directly towards us along with choppy rough seas.
harbour, but in the left/southern side there is an anchorage that is somewhat protected.
Panama. We saw evidence of human trafficking, but you just look the other way and mind your own business there.
shore outside the bay towards a headland to – 
with the lack of humidity, but with the sunshine this made it a very pleasant change. The city is massive, 9,000,000 people live there making it the 
Valdez next to the hotel and joined the
The tour lasted 3 hours, toured us around all the key sites in the historic center 
knew the background history of the city. After our lunch we checked into our room, wandered down 
had been up 
since 3:30am.
The next day we set off to the 
Museum – Museo Del Oro
of the works are smelted, with the
Muisca and Sinu
hundreds and hundreds of years. It was 
absolutely amazing and a museum that is probably the best I have visited. Luckily most of the signs had English too so we were educated about the true history of this northern region of 
South America. We spent 4 hours in the museum and enjoyed it immensely.
Bogota is known to be one of the 
“La Violencia” and the height of the civil war. The modern designs have become quite complex via stencils, spray 
paint, sticker and wheat pasted posters. We started by visiting the oldest part of the city La Candelaria. Here the graffiti is more a work of art with a message. There are 
we were able to spot the different Taggers/artists and find the hidden messages. I found the art to be brilliant! In this area of the city the buildings are very old and protected 
due to their historical importance and so much of the graffiti has been sponsored, permission given and encouraged. 
There were pieces by artists like 
Again the 
artwork was full of messages, this time with deep political messages. It was a wonderful 4-hour tour and completely free, just gave a tip after of 30,000pesoes – $10.
Alex our English-speaking guide and driver arrived at 8:00am and off we drove. As it was a Sunday we had less traffic but 
everyone takes to exercise especially biking.
zipping along downhill or slogging up hill literally by the hundreds. Most of them were doing a 60-kilometer circuit up and down the mountains. We stopped for a lovely view of the city. We continued until 
next stopped. This reservoir flooded the town 
of 
shining, and wild flowers everywhere on the farms on the slopes. We were in fact 
El Dorado – Laguna De Guatavita.
us it was a Spanish speaking group) and proceeded to walk the path to the famous mountain lake. We did luck out in that some of the signs were in English and Alex did tell us the story surrounding the legend. Apparently the native 
to be perfectly round and bottomless. However when the Europeans/Spanish arrived and heard the legend they were 
determined to find El Dorado and retrieve the gold and jewels. Many attempts were made, they even tried to drain the lake, some did find treasures but the lake has remained sacred and mysterious.
along the way. The lake it self is small and a dark green, quite lovely to see. I did find the climb 
quite tiring due to the altitude, but short and it was worth it. After there we drove passed an area where a very rich Colombian has built a replica of the Taz Mahal and other famous buildings. It is 
now a fun park.
We stopped for a 
These are corn based “pancakes” stuffed with differing ingredients in different regions. Mine were stuffed with the local cheese and delicious. John just loved the meat all of it, pork and beef.
town and being Sunday the townsfolk were out enjoying the plaza and the inns, selling wares, playing ball and having fun. The architecture was stunning, such a mix of early colonial Spanish and traditional, the colors really made it special.
Then it was off to the 
decided to create the cathedral in the space left behind from the mining. There is no way to describe the size except to say vast, massive and quite incredible. The tunnels have chapels with differing crosses carved, some with statues and some with just lighting and 
carvings. There is the main chamber with the largest cross that has been carved 
and other carvings in the walls all dedicated to Christianity as Colombia is a very religious, (Catholic) country. It was truly an amazing wonder to behold and not at all what either of us was expecting. To tour the mine took 2 hours. From there we drove back to Bogota and we’re back by 8:00pm. Another very full day!
Day 4
to take a ride up and walk down. (The faithful have been known to “walk” up on 
their knees during Holy Week.) We rode up – straight up- in the “train” I would call it a tram but the hanging gondola is called the tram, quite confusing. At the top we walked a lovely garden like path to the monastery where the viewpoint looked out across the entire of Bogota. 
Our walk back down took over an hour, 
yes that is how long the path is with countless steps and being quite steep it must be quite a challenge to climb, especially on your knees.
That afternoon we visited the 
the 
everything being a round corpulent interpretation.
Day 5
Colombian Orchid. So off to the 
botanical displays. The wax palms were magnificent, unfortunately the orchid 
house was under renovations, but I did get to see some lovely orchids in the greenhouse area.
We were returning from our visit in a taxi down one of the freeways, 4 lanes for each side and with a central lane for the metro busses which are 3 carriages long, when we could 
horns, blowing whistles and apparently protesting about something. Well they would not let the traffic pass, some bikes hopped the central zone others tried to press through but were stuck. We remained so for 5 – 10 minutes when John paid the taxi driver and we started to walk down the freeway. Luckily as we were at the head of the line we could quite quickly walk to the next lane leading into the freeway, flag down a taxi and off we escaped the crazies.
Our destination was the 
Spanish colonials, the religious relics, artwork and much more. 
From there we had a great time walking along one of the very busy commercial streets where you could buy anything imaginable.
This last day we set out to see the 
fully decorated for Christmas, the tree being huge and beautiful. Plus there were different groups demonstrating, one group of Indians were in red and green with a large flag and 
the face of someone plastered everywhere. Another group were carrying orange, mainly balloons, they were protesting women’s rights and the abuse women had to suffer. While in the Presedential grounds there was an official parade taking place. The security was everywhere with their big guns.
After watching the military march around 
we visited several churches and the 
hundreds of years old. The Cathedral was drab compared to some of the churches, which 
were adorned with gold leaf, fantastic carvings, paintings, domed ceilings, chandeliers, magnificent stained glass windows, ornaments, and chapels of all types. The churches are amazing!
We did our shopping mainly for the 
Taganga where friends were attacked
several places to eat along this beach area, hostels and bars, but it is very neglected, run down area. We walked along the front, were warned by the police of bandits if we left the front and saw many druggies/addicts. There was an open style eatery selling fresh fish lunches which we agreed to stop at and really enjoyed their food. We then left Taganga as neither of us liked the area. This is the bay where our friends had anchored and checked in to Colombia upon the advice of a Colombian agent/official. An account of their attack is written here:
Another side trip we had taken was to 
Santa Marta again
we had new neighbors. There was a weekend where the Colombian Cross Fit Championships were held at the marina. It was fun to watch.
However we basically spent the next week working on all the projects we needed finishing. It was a mad rush to get ready to leave for 
Why go and what is the Lost City?
Members of local tribe the 
term) for 
We really lucked out, as we happened to be 
At 
river and uphill into the mountains. This part of the trek was up a narrow roadway used only occasionally by motorbikes but normally by the mules.
Up and up the way went steeply carving upwards
Basically it was hellish conditions to descend to the first camp. Javier held my hand, I used my walking stick and together we slid, slopped, and oozed our way down the steep slope in the pouring rain.
attached to each other. In front of the beds were long tables and benches for sitting to eat or what ever. At the end of the hut was the “kitchen” area. The “bathrooms” are outhouses a short way away from the sleeping quarters. There was a front row with a couple of outside sinks and inside toilets and behind them was a row of showers.
somewhat disappointed with our accommodation, but it was what it was so we got on with the business of getting organized, showered and having dinner which arrived just after 5:30. Dinner that 1st night was very good and we were in our mosquito net covered bunks by 6:30 and asleep shortly after, exhausted from our 1st day. Getting to the outhouses during the night did prove to be somewhat challenging, but we managed. Other than a dogfight, which woke us up, we all slept wonderfully.
Day 2 starts at 5:30
through the trees. Breakfast was at 6:00 and we were on the trail by 6:30. The morning hike was to get to 
Then proceeds to steeply ascend through rain forested slopes to a point where there is a stop for fruit. The way was very steep in parts and I found it quite exhausting, but plodded on for the 2-hour assent. The scenery was wonderful especially with the morning mist rising off the slopes and the light shinning through the trees. At the fruit stop we feasted on delicious oranges and watermelon.
Then all too soon it was downhill. This downhill was very 
rugged, boulders, rocks loose gravel and mud made the trail quite challenging. My legs were very sore by the time the trail leveled out a bit along the side of rivers and streams we walked for a ways and then uphill to our lunch stop.
minutes out of the overall 4-hour average.
out, exhausted!!
shady. The afternoon hike was for the most part uphill. It did follow various 
rivers and was under the trees for a good part.
medicinal purposes. He showed us how the people farm under the trees without 
disturbing the land, but in harmony with the other trees. Children from the village came out to see if we had sweets or treats for them. They were adorable! We passed many villagers along the trails. They were all wearing their traditional while clothes and beaded jewelry. The women are all bare 
footed, the men wear rubber boots, the women walk carrying bags and young children and with their hands they are often weaving a bag. The men usually carry their gourd that contains the coca potion that they 
regularly
them and yes my lips would go numb, but more importantly they took the hard edge off the walk. It was definitely the coca leaves that kept me 
going. Anyway that was Javier and my secret for a more comfortable hike.
just over 4 hours; 6.6 kilometers later
also an area for the
and a separate eating area. Again all John and I did was get organized, showered, rest and then go for dinner at 5:30ish. Dinner was an excellent chicken dish. Again we were in bed by 6:30 as we were exhausted.
campsite (Campsite #2&3), via the Lost City Distance: 13.6km
breakfast at 6:15 and we were off around 6:45. The day had dawned as a beautiful bright morning and we were all looking forward to 
get there you have a walk along the side of the river, along a narrow, slippery, ledge and over many 
boulders. Then you are faced with the 
deep. Up and up and up I went on those steps, stopping periodically to rest my legs and to enjoy the early morning light through the trees. All the other groups reached the top 1st, which was good as we had the way to ourselves.
told us about the indigenous population, the 
who have lived in the region forever. They all view the site as sacred and have always been as they are today. There are small differences between the tribes one being the style of headdress the men especially the Shaman/Mamo religious men wear. The head Shaman still lives in the homes adjacent to the Lost City. Many of his people visit him daily for advice. He resides over all the main religious ceremonies. When the Spanish invaded approximately 2,000,000 of these peoples were killed throughout the 
region by warfare or introduced disease. The Arhuaco, Koquis and Wiwas that were left hid in the wilds of the Sierra 
Nevada mountain range. Javier told us much interesting information about these people and how they live in harmony. They are very troubled by the state of the natural world due to modern civilization and they believe it will not last.
as punishment. The 
We arrived at the top
descending so we had it to ourselves, not counting the Colombian army troops on the slopes behind us. It is gorgeous looking out over the Sierra Nevada’s!! The sky was deep blue, the mountains a mix of greens and the peaceful 
the squawks of parakeets (the Santa Marta parakeet a unique 
species). There are few books and precious little knowledge about this place: it remains enigmatic and unknowable, rather like the descendants of its original inhabitants. 
We visited the 
Back at Casa Rumualdo (El Paraiso Camp)
lunch which again was a delicious meal. After lunch we had the hike back to Casa Gabriel Sanchez. Thank goodness Javier had arranged for an Indian to carry my backpack (along with some of Javier’s stuff too). The hike back was mainly downhill along the beautiful riverside. We reached camp just before 4:00pm and again, got organized and showered before dark and had dinner a bit later at 6:00pm. I was soon asleep
leaving the others to play cards and chat for a bit longer.
I was awaken to the sound of Happy Birthday being sung to 
me
hope I am able to do what you have done at your age, you are just an inspiration” Then they were off.
We had a later start to the day. John had asked Javier
are 
driver, Victor and the pack animals. Victor and I stopped off at the next camp. While there I was shown some artifacts that someone had “discovered” and wanted to sell. They must have been centuries old.
and the group, one of the young guys in our group said to me as I passed by….
going up would last nearly an hour and going down the same. The horse would jump at points when it was too steep so I’d have to always be prepared. Oh and the horse and pack mule had a few arguments along the way, kicking, getting tangled up pushing each other out of the way right by huge drop offs.
I was able to really see the scenery, as I wasn’t concentrating on my footing. 
all colors, eagles swooping, butterflies of all types and really enjoyed the journey. Yeah it was great!! Again we would stop for a fruit break and stretch our legs, each time John and the others were close behind. We arrived at 
gear dry.
We were able to leave at 8:00 and start our unhurried walk to the
end. It entailed the 
returning via a different trail, which would take us by the river where we could swim. So we were off down what proved to be an extremely rugged, steep slope to the river. There the group shed their outer clothing and jumped in, John joined them, but I continued onwards.
country!!
