PHOTOS HERE–>> Guanaja, Honduras Bay islands
Dolphins race Aeeshah
Sunday June 19th, we are leaving Guanaja after arriving in the morning of Tuesday June 14. We both would love to have been able to stay longer on this extra special island, but will have to return one day. It is definitely one of the most unique places we have visited.
Dolphins stay with us for many miles along the way
Guanaja
is quite a large mountainous island, with peaks of about 1200ft, surrounded by reef and cays with fabulous beaches. Unlike other Caribbean islands Guanaja has fir trees, the endemic Guanaja Pine covers most of the slopes. The population totals around 10,000, unbelievably 8,000 of those people live on a single cay.
Bonacca Cay,
Looking at Bonacca Cay where 8,000 live
Through the maze of streets on Bonacca Cay
which is around 100 acres, and found in the main 
Harbour. On this cay they have built a labyrinth of a town. The buildings around the outer edge being on stilts over the water, but up to 3 stories high. Running through the town are narrow walkways, alleyways and canals. In some instances the family transport – boat – is “parked” right under the house. Apparently the isle used to be 2 Cays, but they have merged into one as the population has grown. There are very few people living on the large main island of Guanaja. Why is this? Well according to the locals there is a nasty sand fly that bites and makes life uncomfortable, so they choose to live in a labyrinth of buildings on Bonacca.
John was quite skeptical concerning a dreaded biting insect, until he by the second day, was covered in large, very itchy, uncomfortable bites. Normally I am the one that the mosquitoes and no-seeums feast on, but not this time. Our neighboring boat, Landmark, with Colin and Anne were also eaten by this bug. They said it looked like a small flying flea like bug; I never saw it and luckily never suffered its bites.
Immigration and Port Authority
Sandy Bay where we were anchored.
Bonacca Cay, fishing boats in back ground.
Ashore we went on the afternoon of our arrival, to the immigration fellow first, no problem, two minutes later we had our 90 days and were on our way to Port Authority – aka Customs. There we were faced with needing 2 photo copies of everything plus a picture of the boat. (Yeah-1st place we have ever heard that wanted a picture of our boat.) So off we went, back out to the boat 
and print a 
picture of Aeeshah, we could only print in black and white though. Meanwhile having found an ATM, for cash, a internet place that sold SIM cards, plus the grocery store that did copies of our documents, we returned to the Port Captain. Picture was – “no good, need colour print! Go to Internet place and print a colour print.” Soooooo, off we go, get the colour print. By then it was later in the afternoon, I was shattered from lack of sleep, we were both well fed up. We get the colour print, go back and “no! Picture no good! Need picture of boat here!” Then he announces that he is off to measure a ship, so by then I/we had had enough, I left the colour print on his chair and we headed back to Aeeshah.
Bonacca Cay a labyrinth.
The next morning we returned to the Port Authority where he said he needed to go out to our boat with his phone to take the picture himself. So John runs him out to the boat where the Port Captain takes 2 pics of the boat. Back ashore he tells us to return again the next day for our paperwork. Returning the next day, we had only a few more hoops to jump through, 1st more of the same questions for John for still more papers. Then he opens a door off the main room, calls us through, we find ourselves in a back room corridor, where he asks for money for the photo copies…….so in the end it’s all about a “donation” to the Port Captain. John gave him 100 L….. (About $5.00), he was very happy, said our papers 
were perfect, we could go anywhere, “gracias amigo!” and we were free. We found each cruiser had a different story to tell, different papers, different pictures, different donations to make.
Bonacca
Throughout our checking in time we had plenty of opportunity to learn our way around the Bonacca, it is quite a puzzle/maze of narrow lanes, alleyways, stores and houses. Everywhere was neat and tidy, painted and well organized. Everyone was very friendly and helpful, quite a lovely town, so interesting to wander around.
Through the maze of streets on Bonacca Caywander around.
Houses on stilts on Bonacca Cay
Evening skies
Our anchorage could be quite windy.
Sandy Bay
Our anchorage was a bay called Sandy Bay and was a good 10-minute fast dingy ride away from Bonacca, the wind was blowing a good 15 – 20kts while we’re were there so each dingy ride was a wet affair. However we managed to travel about each day.
Guanaja
There is a canal that runs across Guanaja
The big island of Guanaja is split into two by a narrow canal. Heading through this canal on each side are mangroves, at the end we found the lee shore where there were more wonderful beaches and coves.
The lee shore of Guanaja
We dinged along the shoreline, stopped at a beach to walk, found a trail and followed it inland a short ways.
The vegetation again is quite different as the main local tree is a pine, which gives the slopes a unique appearance. Not wanting to leave the dingy on a beach unlocked we didn’t venture far, but could see lovely hiking in the mountains.
The Lighthouse thats really a house
Back along the coast we stopped at what we thought was a lighthouse. We climbed the cliff and walked up to the “lighthouse” which was someone’s home. They were not home but a big sign said Welcome! There looked to be good walking trails behind and I wanted to go back the next day to explore.
The lee shore of Guanaja
Mi Casa Too
We went for the best meal ever at Mi Casa Too, a 
colourful restaurant on the hill across from the anchorage. Anne and Colin came with us; we landed the dingy on a dock, walked the steep hill to Mia Casa Too and found it to be just lovely. It is very brightly, but discreetly decorated with solid wooden furniture, a wide balcony with looks right out over the anchorage and Harbour. There is a wonderful breeze and the music is great. I had Lionfish and it was one of the
Dinner at Mia Casa Too
best fish dinners ever. To go with the fish was a crisp green salad, coconut, wild rice, and breadfruit fries. The best meal I’ve had in years. Everyone agreed the food was excellent; the evening was fun and one that will be remembered.
Beach near Lighthouse
Hike the slopes
Off we set on our hike
Off we set to explore the lee shore again, hoping to hike the slopes. We stopped at a beach near the lighthouse. Upon reaching the lighthouse we found 
that it was occupied. The couple was the caretaker and his sister, they invited us in to climb to the top and check the view. The view was lovely looking down on the bay and across to the forested slopes. We asked for directions to the top and set off.
It was a hot, tough, climb. Many of the slopes are covered in pine trees; the fallen pine needles make a very slippery slope for climbing. We got to the top of the 1st mount, but another loomed ahead, we got to the top of the second mount, another was ahead,
Part way up……
then to the top of the third mountain, but still couldn’t see the other side clearly, so up we climbed along the ridgeline to the tallest peak which looked out over both shores.
The other side
We enjoyed the view, had a snack and water and set off down for a challenging downward climb. The views were worth it, the scenery was lovely, but it was very, very hot.
John at the last top we climbed
We meant to zoom up a few bays for a refreshing snorkel, but dingy had other ideas……. engine decided it didn’t want to zoom, it just wanted to run walking pace.
A refreshing swim after a hard climb
So we jumped in the water and had a swim, cleaning up all the scratches from the hike to the top. Then of course the wind had risen so we had a very slow dingy ride back, into the wind, with big seas, which took 1 hour 40 minutes, as opposed to 15 minutes at our regular fast dingy ride.
Beautiful lee shore Guanaja
The time spent in Guanaja was excellent! We are going to return and spend at least a month there sometime soon.
The purpose of life, after all, is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience. – Eleanor Roosevelt
Another Guanaja evening
Hobbies Cays
This passage was a 
John went for a rest as he had been up much of the night while I tidied up. Around 10:00 Bad Kitty showed up and then an hour later Landfall arrived.
standing up straining to look for the adult birds for food.
On route to Providencia we were sailing with 
rods, Jen to attend to Chico and the wheel. It looked to be 2 great fish, but unfortunately the 1st broke the line and the 2nd slipped the hook. Chico looked at John with a very disdainful look. Meanwhile Colin on Landmark was “shooting” the boat and fishing. Then just before we started to head in 
Meanwhile back to 
right along the shoreline where a there is a well laid path of pavers decorated with symbols of plants.
To one side you look out over the shallows to the 
ranging from traditional wooden to new concrete design. Most homes being gaily painted with pretty gardens, others being more the working home of the fisherman or the laundress. Between the homes run pathway 
towards the hills or mangroves areas with crabs and lizards scuttling around. It was a lovely walk, but being the afternoon it was hot as in the direct sun with little shade.
shade below the statue with the lovely breeze that was blowing and admired the magnificent view of 360 degrees. It really is a spectacular island. Above the statue was the remains of Fort Aury. We clambered up the hillside to the cannons, which were pointed out over the Harbour and agreed it was too hot to venture any further along the pathway.
the mangroves. Again the pathway was interesting, at the end we found a sign telling us it was the site of where 
Morgan’s Head.
was much algae which we assumed meant the water was just too still and hot. We headed around Isla Catalina in the dingy rounding the whole island on our way back to the boat. It is a very photogenic area.
we hired a mule.
later that all the bus stops are of unique design). This also was the entrance to one of the popular beaches. We walked down to the beach where we found a hut and some locals selling local music and 
trinkets. We ended up buying a CD and a pair of Lionfish fin earrings, which are quite unusual. The beach was empty but looked to be a popular spot. The 2-story hut was the home of the entrepreneur who lived there supplying drinks and trinkets to visitors. This structure was quite a colourful 
structure made from what looked like painted driftwood.
Next stop was for mid morning coffee for the coffee drinkers. We found a 
horseracing beach.
We drove on and found ourselves at the other end of 
Roland the owner was lying in 
his hammock swinging comfortably behind the bar. He saw potential customers and quickly jumped from his hammock and into action.
various owners had taken much pride in their property.
was morning the walk was far cooler and we passed the
dropping ripe mangoes. John was thrilled to be able to pick up and eat ripe mangoes as he walked. On the return journey we collected a pile of mangoes, which we later picked up, from the beach where
we stacked them.
After lunch that day we 
snorkeling was good in areas and then disappointing in other areas. Unfortunately there is much coral bleaching and there looks to be large areas of damaged reef, maybe by boats.
Our friends Colin and Anne had directions 
home on Isla Catalina.
regular trail through the trees. It was an excellent walk.
coast and then tracking uphill along an old stone walkway that was well overgrown to a wreck of what must have once been a splendid house on the hill. The property over looks the bay below and the whole island, but being so overgrown what once must have been excellent views were now glimpses through the trees. I would say it 
was a 2 story home with evidence of at least 2 bathrooms, an outlook from the roof area and a 
living/kitchen onto porch space, plus there was a pool. It 
We collected mangoes on the way back to make mango chutney. The trail had again been one with 
dozens of mango trees with hundreds of ripe mangos. John was in mango heaven! 
Our last day in Providencia we went with Colin and Anne plus 
two other couples to 
he has the most horses on the island and his horses are some of the racers.
We started at the trailhead with Hawkins 
Hawkins was a brilliant guide;
it wasn’t too hot. We wound our way to the top, which as expected had an 
If it had been a sunny day the view would have been stunning, but it was pretty special anyway. Hawkins is at present 
reestablishing another way to head back, but for now we had to head back the same way. Making the whole trek 
Our time was spent 
up supplies so this required a 2 hour bus ride to get to a 
could also carry piles of groceries and crates of beer.
container into liter plastic bottles the desired amount of fuel, be it gasoline, diesel or what ever. This is on the porch, the fuel containers/barrels are kept in the front room of the house where you will also see babies being cared for, children, TV playing and life going on as normal. Just another day in Panama!
white beach we were surprised by a small strip of sand under the trees with houses above and cows grazing. It’s never as you imagine.
Finally John felt we could head off, probably having to motor for the first part, but leave we did.
motoring, and the seas were a bit steep, but we were finally off. The first 24 hours were fine, we even 
miles and part of a small group of cays. It has an English history that started with the Puritans who were also involved in New England. There is a history of piracy, Henry Morgan being just one notable pirate to hide away there. There is a short Spanish history in Colonial times, then settlers from other Caribbean islands also settled including many former slaves from Jamaica. Plus the island has been part of the 
duty free shops. I prefer the older part of town where the shops are small and jammed pack with any type of thing you might need. This is where you find the locals shopping, the bargains and the excellent fresh fruit. We even saw the famous 
that are up on
those rocks and reefs so guessing there must also be many boats lost on these shores too. The beaches along this shoreline are 
of the beautiful beaches along the way.
rest of the day was spent finding necessary parts for Steve’s water maker and picking up our heavier supplies like crates of beer to stock up the boats. All in all we had a fun day!
We had not been able to see the famed 
miles in the hot sun we found the hill. Up we climbed passing a very untidy neighborhood, trash everywhere, stray dogs, cats, kittens, and kids. A totally different side of the neat and tidy San Andres of the shoreline roadway. Maybe this is why the mule/golf cart can’t go up there.
Finally reaching the top we went along a little bit further
Gavin and Katie’s daughter 
around. She is incredibly interested in everyone and everything.
Such a inquisitive, lovely, cuddly, baby girl. We visited as much as we could wanting to spend as much time with Lily as possible.
In Bermuda Good Friday is a special day.
materials.
Other important traditions, which we enjoy, are 
have a wonderful day together.
The next day while at my son’s house we had a phone call from Westmeath where my Dad is a resident/patient. My Dad had fallen and had a bump on his head, would we come and have a look and take him to be checked.
bad for some years now, but that day it was very bad. Plus he kept repeating certain behaviors.
Gavin and Katie’s new boat
We went towards 
conditions were beautiful with wonderful reflections upon the water.
Walks with our dogs:
grave is situated in St James Churchyard
of the surrounding graves are also of extended family members. It was a Sunday and so we could hear the service going on inside the old church. The churchyard is quite a lovely one with huge cedars of 100s of years old.
public dock
out of Dockyard and 
Gavin
was wonderful!! And then it was time to return to Aeeshah.
points almost a vertical assault. What had happened 
over the few hundred years since the battery had been built was erosion of the hillside. It was now a 
gorge, where one has to climb the sides. It is a pretty hike as the steep hillside is grassy and looks out over the entire bay. We reach the battery but it is in disrepair so to climb into it one needs to enter the moat and climb the walls. Not looking safe we gave that a skip. Plus I had learnt by then that all kinds of wasps live in nests in such walls and they do not like to be disturbed.
originally being brought to the top of the ridge those hundreds of years ago?
1st John explored the upper fort again, climbing its walls and checking the view.
Then into the jungle we went. We found this path again more or less followed a ridge. I think the property line –barbed wire fence – that had been erected created it. It was wonderful hiking through the enormous trees, again listening to the birds. Sometimes we actually saw the birds, but most time they are well hidden in the foliage. We did see 
plenty of interesting insects and spiders. John being the “leader” was plagued
by spiders and their webs, guess that comes with being the leader. We could hear the Howler Monkeys off in the distance and really hoped to see them, but never did. Well we hiked about an hour and a half trying to reach the other end, wherever that might be just to reach basically a dead-end. We could have bush-wacked our way onwards, but felt in the heat, with less than half our water left we should head back. The journey back took just 45 mins.
Linton Bay Marina
Once we were in the marina we were able to enjoy our bikes. Sorren too has a bike so we set off to see what we could find.
(mind you I usually push it up the steep hills). We passed the Panamarine entrance, continued on to a small fishing settlement,
Jose del Mar,
Isla Grande
shoreline which goes from one end of the island to the other.
Heading east we enjoyed the quaint shoreline buildings. They were all colours with multiple decorations from shells to tiles to make each distinct in its own right. The islanders obviously take pride in their properties. There was no trash, which 
was a refreshing change from the mainland.
Having reached the pathway heading up we assumed correctly it lead to:
up we climbed to the top.
Reaching the top, I kid you not, 
headed down. We then set off along the same path back the way we had walked and then 
onto the other end of Isla Grande. I was very scenic and easy to see why it was so popular with the local tourists.
Catching local busses
region it requires traveling to the nearest ATM. This is a over an hour in a bus, usually two hours, or an hour in a fast taxi. The least expensive is a bus ride for $2.00 as opposed to maybe over $40.00. Off on the bus we had to travel several times.
the local busses. An experience that everyone should try. The busses are old USA school busses which were left when the Americans left Panama. Each driver has decorated the busses according to his taste, (never seen a female bus driver yet). He drives as he feels speeding up to super faaaassst then for no apparent reason creating along veeerry slowly. Our 1st bus had 
outsides are normally decorated with extravagant 
pictures usually including Christ, I guess as a Blessing. The music again is up to the driver’s taste. This can be mind blowingly loud and ugly as in our 1st bus ride or wonderfully rhythmic Spanish tunes. One is lucky to get a seat as the busses are normally full, so try to catch them early. The locals are all 
very friendly and the atmosphere on the bus is one of terrific endurance. Our 
trips took us to 
Panama City
Panama City.
We visited the 
and enjoyed wandering around looking at the old architecture.
and reduced most of the city to ruins. A new city was built nearby at Cerro Ancon in 1673 where today the old quarter is closed to traffic and very pleasant to wander around the old streets.
We found a fantastic Yogurt cafe where you could choose any flavors of yogurt, all natural and healthy, then put any types of toppings on your yogurt. There we had a wonderful refreshing treat!
American business center.
There are the world’s tallest residential buildings – over 100 floors – other skyscrapers of very interesting design make an interesting skyline.
We went back to Nargana to get some water
Saturday many of the Nargana town folks were also headed up the river off to get water and for the ladies to 
do their laundry. Heading up the river is just lovely, the jungle is beautiful, the bird noises are incredible, seeing them is not easy unless they are brightly coloured. Butterflies and insects fly all round and the water is so clear you can see the river fish. Once upriver we went 
upstream from those doing laundry and having a wash and decantered 
our water. It was a fun expedition.
countryside is very lovely.
Shelter Bay Marina
using wifi and laundry at last, and going for bike rides and outings.
we saw tiny spider monkeys leaping 
across the lane from tree to tree. There were virtually no others along the lane and riding under the jungle canopy is lovely even in the high 80s. The beach where we stopped was completely deserted and we had a very nice walk along it. I was particularly happy to find many great shells, cowries and tulips to name a few.
Another bike ride we took was 
the observation tower in the jungle
many birds and insects but seeing them is really difficult unless they are brightly coloured they are well camouflaged in the dense jungle canopy. We arrived at the end of the trail and found no tower. However you could see out somewhat over the jungle. We later found out the platform, built by the Americans had been there 20 years ago but like 
much of the American base it has returned to the jungle. The park service just keeps the trail open now.
Embera Village visit.
a visit to an 
of Panama. During the colonial era they proved to be a valuable ally of Maroons, such as Bayano and Felipillo. The legacy of the symbolic relationship is still alive and well in the upbeat tempo of their music, product of the African drums. Embera people are the only indigenous people in Panama 
that have the drum as a part of their musical instruments.
We were taken by 
ride to and along the shores of the 
craftwork was displayed. 
and set ablaze at the end and the cooking pot is put on top. It is a very hard wood and lasts several weeks before they need new logs.
What was most interesting to me was their history. They lived originally in the region where the Gatun Lake is now found. When it was decided to build the canal it was necessary to flood the area thus creating 
what is now the huge Gatun Lake. Around the lake was to be all 
warning. They were told they could continue to live in the area but could no longer hunt the deer or wildlife, nor could the farm 
their rice and other crops. So the Embera peoples decided to adapt to the new lifestyle. They create their wonderful crafts, trade, and 
work in nearby communities while still 
following their original culture. Asking about their matrimonial “system” it was explained that no two from the same village or community can “marry”. The leader said 
he set off at 14 crossed the country and found his wife in the village we were in. He then had to prove his worth by building a home and establishing himself before she would become his. Quite progressive thinking I think.
very tasty, cooked banana and plantain all in a banana leaf cone.
plus allowed to wander around the village. Watching the children was a highlight. They are 
very innocent and so very lovely.
Our first stop along the coast of 
the Thursday late afternoon. They went through a series 
of locks and rose upwards towards the
this in each lock. He said it was really easy. They spent the night on Gatun Lake tied to a buoy. The pilot arrived at 10:00 the next day, (only 3 hours late), and they crossed the lake. The lake he said was very beautiful with just jungle at the sides and islands that again were just jungle. They could hear the howler monkeys. 
Meanwhile I stayed 
where I started stocking up with supplies.
scream like monsters
some vultures. These 
to 
the American base, but it was 
We went to the 
1597 under the name of the 
restaurants. The ruins of the 
is encroaching and reclaiming the area. The fort on the southern side of the bay is being restored. It was interesting to walk around and see all the canons facing out to sea. In fact in all the forts in the Portobello area there are 
at least a few dozen canons still facing out to sea. We visited the old church and saw the famous Black Jesus who was brought to Portobello hundreds of years ago and today is reputed to be responsible for miracles, hundreds come to pray to him.
We hiked to the top of the fort above the boat. This is a 3-layered fortification. The 1st being at sea level 
then up a steep incline is the second level and after a longer even steeper climb we found the top 
fortification that looks out over the whole bay. The view is just amazing. Once again we could hear the howler monkeys making off in the jungle around us 
and saw dozen of beautiful butterflies and all kinds of exotic birds. We watched the leaf cutter ants as they trudged along with massive leaves attached to their back. Their pathways are several inches wide. They are quite impressive insects.
Leaving Portobello we decided to 
cat sitter for Chico. Our plan was to visit 
the return monkeys! 
channels and found them to be exceptionally beautiful. Took a hike to the little 
San Blas Islands: Lemmon Cays
We headed to the 
While there we walked around Waisaidup and found a few Gunas 
living there, probably to tend the huge coconut forest. The waters were all colours of turquoise with the shallows rolling ashore it was absolutely idyllic.
were magnificent corals of all types, schools of all different fish, eels in the rocks the reef was alive with life. 
dolphin chasing the school of Jacks, which were chasing the Fry as pelicans swooped and plunged into the water. Chico was very entertained with the life around the boat. This is definitely an anchorage where we will return and spend more time.
Being mindful that the weather was deteriorating, that we had not had wifi for some days and we needed supplies we moved to 
The sail to the San Blas islands was a long tedious one
easy way to reach these islands, they have been cut off from “progress” as we call it. The associated mainland is called 
tribes/settlements of bamboo-thatched huts that each has an elder or tribal leader in charge. Most leaders do not allow any television, some do not allow any loud music and all maintain their traditional cultural ways. The people are all very small being one of the smallest peoples in the world.
which comprises of intricately sewn layers of embroidered cloth in vibrant colors. The men go in their dugout canoes to farm, fish or collect coconuts. There are schools for the children. The elder children help by doing laundry, child minding and such chores.
Approaching this island was 
there, hoping we would arrive. They had sailed in the day before from where we had last seen them.
This is the 
with difficulty. I think the number one rule for sailing/traveling by water here is to follow the waypoints in the 
After arriving at
went ashore to have a look around, plus to get sim cards, which we had heard, were available. We wandered the village from one end to the other through the tiny pathways of huts, past family compounds and guna villagers busily going about their affairs. Everyone was extremely 
friendly, wanting to practice their limited English and wishing us 
children were playing through the village, the boys flying kites and the girls with balls.
fellow in a corner with a huge shotgun he was polishing up and children playing on a mat on the earth floor. A surreal situation for a digicel! Out of one hut a lady sold us the sim cards for a few dollars. Plus minutes for a few more dollars. At another hut I bought bread rolls for 8 cents each. We were happy with our purchases.
Aridup
scary. However we live on the edge anyway. When arriving we were struck again by the beauty of these islands. 
reef, been holed and sank. The 18 people aboard were 
rescued. This boat regularly traveled these waters with guests. The Gunas had coiled the rigging and had beers they had salvaged.
the island, met Lynne and Eric with the boys, had a swim and went back to Aeeshah for a very rolly night. This is not a good anchorage. That evening we were surprised by a call on the VHF radio. It was 
We arrived in the morning and found it to be a very beautiful calm anchorage surrounded by tiny uninhabited islands. Our friends had made a 
Some 
lights and set sail back home. I was quite worried about him. Well he turned up at Bad’s boat a short while later having lost his oar and 
could not row his canoe home so borrowed one and set off again.
at his 
find Arkin passed out with 
the world’s worse hang over in bed. We were shown the 
molas Arkin’s wife was working on and met his daughters too. A lovely family that work very hard to make a living. I delivered our “gifts” (some clothes, lollypops, candies, a cap and such) and off we set to do the river tour ourselves.
We found the river after some help and up it we travelled for some miles. It really was picturesque. The reflections were wonderful, birds were everywhere and it was shady and cool. An
excellent tour we gave ourselves, we went until we could go no further. That afternoon we went snorkeling and exploring on one of 
the nearby islands with Sorren. Again it was a lovely day,
surrounding islands and swam. Walking around the island, looking for shells and doing all the pass times we love to do. Again each island is just so very special and beautiful!
the beach a canoe arrived with a family and 2 dogs. They all proceeded to swim, the children having a great time. Again they were such friendly happy people. The children were very natural with no pretenses, practicing their English on us. Before they left they gave us some yucca and plantains/bananas.
We walked around the settlement, were able to find a “store” and buy a few bits and pieces. Plus we were able to buy some bread rolls, diesel and order water. The major bonus was the internet/wifi. There was enough signal to be able to call home, receive emails and get the weather, whoopee!!
Diablo
Up the river we slowly went avoiding sunken 
trunks, branches, and mud banks. This river was much wider than the last one, but just a beautiful. We saw many different birds of all types 
from woodpeckers to vultures to humming birds, birds of prey, and water birds.
bigger wooden boat with containers heading up river. As we got to about 3 miles up river we could see that these local boats/canoes with the containers were actually collecting the water for the settlement. Yep, the water we had ordered was coming from up river, hummmm….. So it was decided that some bleach would be added to our water, much to my dismay. When we felt we could go no longer we stopped at a riverbank where the boys had a run around with their Frisbee. It was a lovely morning up the Rio Diablo.
Green Island/Kanjildup and surrounding islands
Years.
the area with Kay and John. It is truly a very beautiful group of islands. 
Being closer to some sort of civilization there is a wifi connection, the Gunas make deliveries of vegetables, fish and lobster plus they have dug a fresh water well on one of the islands. We really enjoyed our time there.
Porvenir
islands, on one is immigration and customs office, a very small place to stay and an airstrip, (which only the smallest of planes could land on). However again it is very lovely.
Chichime Cays Eastern Lemmon Cays
islands on one a few Guna families live and on the other the Gunas have built huts for tourists to visit and even stay over night. Therefore it is also somewhat busy with the local taxi boats and the carter boat traffic. However that really didn’t bother us.
We 
lovely shells; saw many rays, an octopus or 2 plus numerous fish. It really is so shallow over the reef and grass banks that scuba would never be necessary. On the outer reef there was a wreck of a sailboat, which John swam over the shallow 
reef, (about 2 – 1 foot deep), he of course climbed on top. We found several other wrecked sailboats on the bottom around the deeper reef. It really shows how treacherous the reefs here can be when you approach from out at sea. We also visited some of the 
Cartagena, Isla Del Rosario, Islas de San Bernardo/Tintipan and Sapzurro 
The passage from Santa Marta to Cartagena
protected harbour. There are 2 busy massive cargo docks with ultra modern automated cranes where enormous cargo ships are constantly being loaded and unloaded. One of which is located on 
next to 
the evening
weddings
tour
way around the old city.
Palacio de la Inquisicion/ Palace of the inquisition:
was to stamp out heresy. The Holy Offices main job was to instigate proceedings against such crimes as witchcraft, magic, and blasphemy, (anyone who did not conform to the Catholic Church). The culprits when found guilty were publicly executed; about 800 people were put to death here. There are some of the tools of torture on display, plus the guillotine and the hang mans noose.
Was a convent that was founded by Jesuits. The name was changed to honor San Pedro Claver who became known as the Apostle of the Blacks, or the Slave of Slaves. He was a monk who spent his life ministering to the enslaved Africans 
and he was the first person to be canonized in the New World for his amazing acts of kindness. The convent is a 3-story museum now along side the church. It is a beautiful colonial building with excellent displays. We enjoyed walking around and viewing the exhibits especially the San Pedro Claver rooms where he actually lived. You can still see his body as it lies under the alter in the church.
is a fortress, in fact it is the greatest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies. The original fort was commissioned in 1630; it was enlarged over the next 100 years and more until 
it became an impregnable fortress. We spent a good many hours exploring all the levels, walkways tunnels and terraces of this massive fort. There were great views across the city too.
Are the thick old city walls that were started to be built towards the end of the 16th century after an attack by Sir Francis Drake. They took 2 centuries to build and are absolutely massive. John and I walked them in 2 segments, it was a long, hot, walk each time and truly illustrated just what an 
astonishing piece of military engineering Las Muralles are.
The outer walled town is exciting to visit too. The lanes, small shops, shady plaza and graffiti were fun to see. During the evening it is also full of street entertainment, which we really enjoyed.
Malls
ready for the masses to enjoy so we went for the end by the sea wall and enjoyed some time on the beach. Another evening, John and I were so desperate to cool down we went back that way and had a swim. The water was tepid, but did help to lower our body 
temperature.
A dingy drift
Isla Del Rosario
Islas de San Bernardo:
are a small chain of islands that include 
We enjoyed a snorkel in clear water for the first time since Bonaire. There were lots of fish, healthy coral and large orange and yellow starfish. Eric took the boys to the beach on his kayak while we wallowed in the warm water the dogs played Frisbee.
to sail. A decision was made to sit tight and await the supposed 
winds arriving the next day. We all set off in the dinghies to explore the few nearby islands. Tintipan is just a maze of bays with beaches and mangrove channels leading to more of the kind. There are very nice properties
spread out along the way and supposedly they belong to the rich Colombians who visit ocasionally and have workers/caretakers living and maintaining them in the meantime. There were some littler islets that were just floating buildings and looked to be for tourists. We circled Santa Cruz and were amazed by the way the whole island is just a mass of wooden and tin buildings. There were people everywhere, it looked like a big mess to me, but I’m assuming they have nowhere else to live.
Heading out:
reefs and in the deep blue. That was when the wind died and then came round to being right directly towards us along with choppy rough seas.
harbour, but in the left/southern side there is an anchorage that is somewhat protected.
Panama. We saw evidence of human trafficking, but you just look the other way and mind your own business there.
shore outside the bay towards a headland to – 
