Aeeshah

 

PHOTOS link –>> https://goo.gl/photos/ZdpgwM4NZr3NJMYy5  

Back in Guatamala

On the 9th November, the day after my birthday, we travelled back to Guatemala. Within 20 minutes of arriving in Guatemala City airport we were off to the hotel. Nice and quick compared to when we left! One night in Guatemala City was necessary so we could get the 9:00am Litegua bus back to the Rio. The bus ride wasn’t bad, just a little over an hour of hold ups and delays on the road. However I still find 6+ hours on a bus draining, dreadfully boring.

 

 

All was great back at Aeeshah. Chico looked fit, and Kevin was there with him to greet us.  There had been no problems and so life was back to normal.

Visit to Hacienda Tijax Hotel and Marina.

Ever since arriving at Rio Dulce we had been intending to visit Tijax, not for the marina or hotel but for a nature walk they supposedly had. Really expecting it to be not much more than a nice stroll around gardens we went there for a morning meander.

What we found was a really pleasant hike.

Starting off there was a series of hanging walkways through the mangroves where the rental cabanas are located, followed by a couple of long hanging walkways till you reach the land entrance/parking area for Tijax.

The next part starts with a small hanging bridge followed by a walkway between fields that gradually wind uphill to the Museo. At the museum we saw info about the different birds and trees found on the walk ahead.

From there it is downhill to the virgin rainforest where you follow pathways and a series of longer hanging bridges that are in the treetops looking down into the jungle below.

 

 

 

After these you find a track that leads up hill to the pool/pisca. This is a natural pool formed from a small stream that flows down into it.

 

 

 

 

Across the pool the track continues uphill to the rubber plantation. John and I both found the rubber plantation fascinating. The trees are growing in rows, they each have a diagonal slash across the trunk, which leads and “bleeds” down to a cup where the rubber is caught. The rubber is white, solid but supple sitting in the bottom of the cup.

The Mayans started collecting rubber by this method in the BCs. They made very large rubber balls for their ball games at their festivities. It’s amazing that rubber production still continues using the same method. At Tikal the ancient Mayan city you can see the massive rubber trees with the diagonal slash – scars – along their trunks.

 

 

 

This Tijax rubber plantation is huge some 500 acres, we only walked a small corner of it and then emerged at the hill below the lookout tower.

 

Atop the tower we climbed and really enjoyed the view across the Rio and all the surrounding countryside as far away as Lake Isobel and Belize. The view is spectacular and the breeze divine! After the tower it’s basically downhill where the path meets up with the hanging bridges through the rain forest to return by. It was an excellent walk and we highly recommend it.

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Off to Tikal and Flores

Transportation:

I arranged for us to spend a few days in Tikal and then Flores. I chose the FDN bus that runs from Guatemala City through Rio Dulce to St Elena. Well that was a big mistake. We got onto a full bus and more and more people were crammed in with us. The bus was the size of a coach, it had 4 people wedged into double seats, the entire aisle full of us standing with our bags so tightly jammed together you could not move your feet and then off he zooms. And he would stop for more people along the way. In the driver’s compartment there were 8 people, John being one, sacks of produce and buckets. Periodically the driver would scoop a large cup of water out of a bucket and pour it into a funnel in the dash-board. We guessed this was for the radiator? This was while he was driving flat out…he also chatted away on his phone, ate a full chicken lunch, throwing all his trash out the window all while driving with his elbows and/or knees along a single lane roadway over-taking any vehicles in the bus’s way. John caught some video footage and wishes he had caught more, as it’s a scream. Guess he is either very talented or lucky as we got there in one piece.

Arriving in St Elena after 4 hours of standing on the crazy uncomfortable bus ride we got a taxi to Tikal. I had thought we would get a collective, but we both needed a bit of luxury. From the taxi we were lucky to see a Red Brocket deer and fawn grazing on the roadside.

 

 

 

 

At Tikal we were staying in the National Park at Tikal Inn. This was a very nice place to stay in our own small bungalow. Peten Turkeys and Central American Agouti, (like giant guinea pigs) would wander across the lawn in front of our bungalow.

 Sunrise tour

We were up the next morning at 3:30 to go for the sunrise tour. The tour starts at 4:00 in the dark as you hike through the ruins with the rain forest all around, you can’t see anything as it’s by torchlight. We did come across a snake coiled in the pathway blinded by our torchlight. Apparently it was a poisonous snake too. After a fast hike of about an hour we arrived at the foot of a staircase.

We were told to climb up and find a seat on the “pyramid” – which was actually Temple 1V. We were asked to sit quietly and enjoy the jungle sounds while the birds and animals wake up. So up we climbed, at the top we were lucky to be able to sit along the top row of Temple 1V as many other groups arrived and so were below us.

The sky was still dark, but we could see that there was cloud cover too. As the dawn neared, we heard the birds chirping and the light started filling the skies, however ahead was a low cover of misty cloud so we just make out the other temples – pyramids. It was lovely and peaceful even if not a colourful sunrise.

Temple 1V where we sat is also called the Two Headed Snake Temple. It is the tallest temple in Tikal and the whole of Mesoamerica. It was built in 740AD and stands at 70 meters. The famous Star Wars clip was filmed from the top of this temple.

At the bottom our guide took us on a tour through the park showing and explaining the Mayan ruins to us, plus telling us about the plants and animals of the area. We saw a Coati, (looks like a small ant eater with a long tail), that walked just by us not bothered at all by our presence. This is because all the animals within the park are protected and not hunted. The wild Peten turkeys were everywhere. They are beautifully feathered in wonderful patterns almost like a peacock. The highlight for me was seeing and following a Tucancillo Collarejo toucan. I was thrilled. We also had spider monkeys swinging and climbing in the treetops above us.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ruins were spectacular. As said we climbed Temple 1V the Two Headed Snake Temple then the 1^st stop was Complex N it is an example of a twin temple, was built in 710AD, by Ah Cacao to mark the 14^th katun, or 20-year cycle of baktun 9. (a baktun equals about 4 centuries), is not fully restored, but had a stele and an altar. This is stele 16 and is like a news-sheet telling all that happened in that complex by hieroglyphs. The king himself is depicted on the stele. The altar – circular stone depicts the same king accompanied by a priest in the process of exhuming the skeleton of a female ruler.

We next visited a pyramid referred to as Palace windows, also as the Bat Palace, which was as its name says, a palace and had been occupied.

 

 

 

 

We stopped at Templo 111 also know as the Great Priest Temple. It stands at 60m and is under restoration.

Next was Plaza de los Siete (7) Templos – the name came from the 7 small temples. It was to the east of the main plaza and is also under restoration. To the south were the three larger palaces and opposite was also the Triple Ball playing field, which is unique in the whole Mayan area. As mentioned the Mayans made their own rubber balls, these were large hard rubber balls, which they used for their unique game of Triple Ball that was played at ceremonial times.

In the Gran Plaza at one end was Temple 11 – The Mascarones Temple/Temple of the Masks. It is 38m and faces the Gran plaza built by Mr. Cocoa – governor Jasaw Chan Kawil 1.

At the other end we looked up at Temple 1 – The Big Jaguar it was built in 700AD by the son of governor Jasaw Chan Kawil 1 – Mr. Cocoa, to honor his father, whose tomb was discovered inside/under the temple. His rich burial goods included stingray spins – for bloodletting, jade objects, pearls and carved bone with hieroglyphs. Again standing at 47m it is a majestic pyramid.

Passing Acropolis Central, where Tikal’s nobles lived, we made our way back for breakfast at 9ish. It had been an excellent tour.

 

 

 

 

 

Later after a nap, John and I went back into the Tikal ruins to return to where we had been and to see more of the ruins. As we started out we saw and heard howler monkeys high in the branches of the trees.

This time we visited Temple 1V – the Two Headed Snake Temple again to see the view in the midday light. The view was excellent even if the weather was dull. From above the treetops we could see the temples of the Gran Plaza – Temple 111 Temple V and the great pyramid of the Mundo Perdido poking through the treetops.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We then headed off towards the Main Plaza but ended up at “The Lost World” – Mundo Perdido a complex of 38 structures with the huge pyramid in its midst. This pyramid at 32m is 80m along the base.

It has 4 eroded staircases with huge masks flanking each one. It is believed they were for observing the sun’s trajectory against the trio of structures to its east. Tunnels dug under this pyramid have found 4 similar pyramids beneath the outer surface. This dates back AS FAR AS 700BC!!

On we went through drizzle to Templo V. It is the second highest temple at 57m and was built between 550 and 650 AD.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we did make our way to the Gran Plaza, but then what had been showers turned into out right rain. The pathways that have been worn to bare rock with time and use became very slick, soil turned into mud and we decided it was time to head out. We were starving as we had long before missed lunch so stopped off at the park’s tienda and restaurante facilities where we had a delicious sandwich, especially made as we had missed lunch.

We planned to return to revisit the Gran Plaza early the next morning before the buses arrived, but unfortunately we were not permitted to as our 24-hour park pass was expired and it was not worth purchasing for 150Q each 2 tickets for just a few hours.

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Flores & Santa Elena

Transportation:

When we left we walked out the hotel entrance and were met by some fellows who said they were the 11:00am collective to Santa Elena. Following them, we boarded a touristo autobus and feeling very lucky to have it to ourselves, we relaxed. The bus headed towards the entrance where the driver and helper got off to gather more customers. However they only came back with 5 others and then announced to us all they were not leaving until 12:30 now, as they did not have enough of us. Of course everyone was royally pissed off. It felt like we had been kidnapped.

Everyone, except myself, got off to argue with the men. Next thing I knew the driver gets back in the bus and takes off with our bags and me! Then I really was feeling kidnapped. He zoomed down the road and around the car park pulling up between other busses. It was just crazy! He had gotten fed up with the others telling him he was not being honest and so he had a Trump melt down, took off with the bags and me. Anyway everyone followed the bus and the result was we agreed to go for a cup of tea and to return when the driver felt he might leave. Off to the cafe we go, barely getting served when our driver appears, he has a bus for us. So back we go get on a smaller collective and head to St Elena and Flores. What a crazy early morning.

Arriving in St Elena our driver continued on over the causeway and drove up the tiny Flores lanes right to our hostel – Los Amigos, it was a very pleasant surprise to get door-to-door service.

Flores and Santa Elena

Our hostel – Los Amigos – was a unique place to stay. The building where our little private room with shower was located was around the corner from the main building where the lounge, bar, and hostel real was located. Our building was a converted home that had been very colorfully decorated.

 

It was small but very comfortable, plus you could go to the roof to lounge if you wanted. The main building was a place that was quite unique. The lounge area was really like a big doss area or chill out place for backpackers. There were couches, cushions, swings, all kinds of seating and tables for eating at too. Then there was the bar area that was really uniquely decorated, very reminiscent of the hippy generation time when we had both grown up. John’s opinion was that it was like an enormous playpen for young folk. Well we had 2 dinners and a breakfast there and the food was great and the drinks a good price, so it was an excellent playpen.

 

We enjoyed walking the lanes and alleyways of Flores in the afternoon, but wished for sunshine. It is a quaint island, just jammed with homes many of which are hotels, tiny stores and restaurants of all types. Flores has a colourful history. It had been the last independent Mayan kingdom, but the Spanish annihilated all trace of the pyramids, and Mayan structures so now all you see is built on the ruins of Itazaes of Tayasal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day dawned with rain and cloud again, but as we had breakfast in a restaurant by the lakeside the cloud cover started to break. We spent the morning walking across the causeway and into St Elena where we stumbled upon the local market.

 

 

 

There we had an excellent time wandering around looking at just everything that was displayed for sale. The locals were so friendly even cooperating with my picture taking of all that I found interesting. I even found loquats for sale.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The day had brightened significantly by then as we made our way back across the causeway it was a completely different landscape we saw looking out across the lake.

 

 

 

After a lovely but too large lunch we again walked all the lanes and alleys of Flores, this time in the blazing sun. It is a very, peaceful, picturesque island town.

 

 

Eat healthily, sleep well, breathe deeply, move harmoniously. – Jean-Pierre Barral

Some people grumble that roses have thorns; I am grateful that thorns have roses. – Alphonse Karr

 

PHOTOS LINK –>>   https://goo.gl/photos/Wort8FkdT9Bq165b7 

Bermuda

On 19th October we were off to Bermuda via a short stay in Miami. The plan was to spend a day shopping for all our boat gear before heading off home. However our flight was late leaving Guatemala City, we didn’t arrive at our Miami hotel until late in the evening. So we only had the morning and until 3:00pm to shop, when we needed to check in for our flight. Next we found out that President Obama was in Miami and there would be road closures. It was a mad dash from West Marine, to 2 different malls and Wal-Mart, back to pack our purchases and to the airport. However we managed to get most items.

Back in Bermuda:

It was great to see the family and especially the two babies, Lily and May.

Lily, Gavin and Katie’s daughter was turning 1 and that was part of the reason we were back, for her 1st Birthday.

May, Kate and Jae’s babe was 7 months and had grown by 6 months since we had last seen her. May was another reason for being home.

Incredible amount of work

However this turned into real working visit. We found an incredible amount of work to get through:

Gavin was moving into my Dad’s house, as the tenants were moving out and Gavin and Katie’s lease was up on theirs. Plus the downstairs area/basement of my Dad’s house was getting a major upgrade: floors, doors in and out, windows, walls finished, electrical, plumbing, just everything upgraded and redone. So we volunteered and were recruited to help with the big move.

John started with the repainting of where Gavin was moving out of and then of my Dad’s place too. Plus he also helped with some electrical, construction, etc, etc. He was away at my Dad’s old house most days.

I had to move all boxes and boxes of my Dad and Mom’s and Grandparents’ gear/heirlooms from the storage at my Dad’s. Transport everything (about 6 car loads and 1 van load), lug the lot up to our porch, sort it and repack and store it in our storage room. Thankfully most days Kate or Jae helped lug boxes up for me. It was quite a task for everyone. (The Barn, a charity, received quite a few treasures)

 

 

Meanwhile I visited each day with my Dad at his “home”.

Lily’s 1st Birthday!

It was Lily’s 1st Birthday! Gavin and Katie had a party for her in a Kid’s party place. It was actually a large area set up just for children with age appropriate activities. All the children partied happily by playing on different activities, parents hovered nearby.

As they were all so young it was the best kind of party. Lily is walking and talking, just a wonderful little girl, very, very active. She keeps her parents and nanny on their toes.

May “cut” her first pumpkin at Halloween

We had fun seeing May “cut” her first pumpkin at Halloween. She looked amazed by the whole experience. Then all dressed up to go out trick or treating she was such a cutie!

Babysitting

 

 

 

 

 

 

We were babysitting and helping with May, (Kate and Jae’s baby), who is now 7 months and just amazing. Kate would go to the stable to ride or teach a lesson, or go for a run and I would take May for a walk or stay home watching her. Gavin dropped Lily off one morning and she and May had a kind of play-date. It was very sweet to watch the two cousins interacting together. Plus we babysat for Lily one evening, while Gavin and Katie were out with friends. This gave us a few hours of bath-time and play with Lily. She is so switched on for a one year old. Also we babysat in the evenings so Jae and Kate could get to go out and enjoy adult times. May became so attached to us it was tough leaving.

Family dinners

For the 1st two Sundays we had family dinners in Chrissie and Ivan’s area upstairs. Then on the day before we left we had a Birthday celebration for me.

The whole family came; again it was a wonderful evening.

 

Jae had caught a few large lobsters and he made Lobster Tempura, it was excellent!

Kate made me a big cake! And she and Jae gave me a miniature bullet to make smoothies on the boat. Gavin and Katie gave me a pair of beautiful Bermuda pink sand earrings shaped as starfish. Chrissie and Ivan spoilt me with a much-needed trip to the hairdressers and Chrissie wrote me a very special memory book.

 

 

 Few hours out in Gavin’s boat

We managed a few hours out in Gavin’s boat. We went towards what used to be the old Canadian base, where we used to go to explored the abandoned buildings and found it is now completely stripped. The new Artemis base for the America’s Cup is stationed there too.

Across from there we found our old mooring was still in place. Then we cruised through the islands in the Sound. They too have all changed from when as a family we used to spend many a day having fun roaming the wild islands of the Sound. Hawkins has been stripped of many trees, homes built and it has been tamed. Long Island looks manicured, not at all how it was when the children were young. Our island, Fern Island, looked much the same. We all have many wonderful memories from our camping days on Fern Island.

Construction is and was well underway

Meanwhile at my Dad’s house where Gavin and Katie had moved, construction is and was well underway. The lower story, is being turned into new rooms. The electrical were being laid, the floors being readied, the plumbing redone. It will be a brand new home when finished.

Chico

Chico is quite the man now, when we travelled home we had a worker here at Catamaran watch and feed him. So he had his own personal cat minder. The guy Kevin is a local and just thrilled with the extra money. Anyway when we got back, Chico looked great, and Kevin was there with him to greet us.  We were told that Chico would make his rounds of all the boats visiting with all the folks aboard. Kevin would also be around throughout the day looking for Chico to make sure he was OK. Chico has made friends with all the workers, many guests and visits most parts of the island/hotel. He is going to be one angry cat when we leave!

 

 

 

 

PHOTO LINK–>>  https://goo.gl/photos/ngq8AQcbc7S72Dvg6 

Antigua:

Before we travelled home to Bermuda John and I spent a couple of days in Antigua.

We travelled from the Rio on the same and only bus, this time only taking 6 hours, phew! Then taking another bus to Antigua, arriving we got a taxi to take us to our hotel.

Believe it or not when we got there the hotel was shut! Yes, as in closed and so we had nowhere to stay. Not speaking the best of Spanish, this was a problem. The taxi took us back to the main square, Parque Central, where we decided to walk to the hotel we had previously stayed in. Walking there dragging our bags was not fun, plus the wheels on one bag gave out due to the cobblestones.

Casa Cristina

Once there we were told they were fully booked, but recommended Casa Cristina, around the corner. Casa Christina turned out to be a wonderful hotel. We had a room at the top looking out towards the volcano: Volcan Agua, there was a small lounge just down the corridor where we could get tea, for free. Plus just above was a beautiful rooftop patio that looked out over Antigua. So things turned out better in the end.

For the rest of the day we wandered around Antigua and had an excellent  chicken curry for dinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next day we had breakfast at Cafe Condessa in the main plaza, – Parque Central – and set off exploring.

Our first stop was the craft shops to buy some crafts to take home as gifts. Second stop was:

 The cathedral, – Catedral de Santiago

– off the main square. Antigua’s cathedral was first built in 1545, but wrecked by the earthquake of 1773. John and I explored the intact still functional, interior and then ventured into the original’s ruins.

The ruins are impressive, there are massive chunks of pillars beneath the brick arches, partial walls stand all lending an atmosphere of what had been at one time an impressive structure. The original stonework, tiles and murals can still be seen in places. There are restorations underway, but much of the building is in ruins and will stay that way.

 The Market

Around the square and off to the market we went. Both of us had enjoyed the market on our previous visit and my feet were killing me as all I had on were flip-flops and walking on cobblestones in them was crippling me. At the market I picked up some colorful plastic clogs – crocks in orange and blue, which would enable me to walk.

The market is an amazing place; absolutely everything is for sale, from meat, vegetables, fruits, flowers, clothes, accessories, animals, etc, plus all kinds of services too. We had a totally fascinating wander around the market.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a great lunch at Cafe Condessa, – breakfast was so good we went back!

 Cerro De Cruz

We left to hike to the Cerro De Cruz on the slope above Antigua. From Cerro De Cruz there is a great view looking out towards the Volcan Agua, the actual volcano that caused the destruction of much of Antigua hundreds of years ago, – it is still active.

Iglesia y Convento de Santa Domingo

Back down the steps we headed towards Iglesia y Convento de Santa Domingo. This was a monastery founded by Dominican friars in 1542. It became the biggest and richest monastery in Antigua. After 3 earthquakes in the 18th century the building was pillaged for the building materials.

In 1970 an American archaeologist acquired the site as his private residence and site for digging. After extensive excavations the site was taken over by Casa Domingo Hotel. It is part of the cultural route now as major restorations have taken place.

 

While being an excellent hotel it also includes the wonderfully restored monastery, plus underground crypts with original works from 1683, there are 6 different museum displays, artwork from Guatemala, examples of local clothing, and craft, a workshop for Guatemalan tile making and a candle making workshop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Needless to say John and I were in Iglesia y Convento de Santa Domingo for the rest of the afternoon. It was a fascinating place to visit and there were English explanations to most of the displays.

John and I both find Antigua a beautiful, fascinating place to visit.

“There are times when we stop. We sit still…We listen and breezes from a whole other world begin to whisper.” —  James Carroll

PHOTOS LINK –>>  https://goo.gl/photos/6KT4oi7vWSS3ob3W7 

Our plan: was to splash Aeeshah at the beginning of October and then travel with our friends Diana and Lane to Semuc Champey on Sunday October 9th. The beginning of the month came and still we had the rudder to be adjusted and returned to the boat, the new boot lines had to be painted and the sides seen to.

 

 

 

 

Work was progressing slowly; I was feeling a bit frantic and frustrated. Then on the 3rd and 4th the lines got sanded, by the 5th the rudder was adjusted and affixed to the hull, the name redone and the painting of the of the boot lines completed. We made it back into the water by the 7th, moved out of India – the cabana and back on Aeeshah with a day to spare.

Aeeshah looks fabulous! We are both very happy with the work and workers at RAM. By far the best we’ve ever had and much less expensive that anywhere else. Plus staying at India was a real luxury.

 

Semuc Champey

When doing research of Guatemala, I saw what looked to me one of the most beautiful of rivers. The waters were turquoise and the rapids in a series of natural steps. This was a must see and experience place! However there was very little information about the area, other than it was a remote park of great natural beauty, with many adventurous expeditions available, but the down side was it was very challenging to get there. After speaking to Lane and Diana we agreed to try to travel there together. Lane had found a hostel called Utopia that was in the immediate area, looked great and had an option for transport. John and I were still in RAM working on Aeeshah so Lane and Diana kindly made the arrangements for all of us. We were set to leave on Sunday 9th, October.

Semuc Champey consists of a natural 300m limestone bridge, under which passes the Cahabon River. On top of the natural bridge is a series of stepped, turquoise pools that are fed pure water from the limestone cliffs that flank them. The whole area is reputed for its natural beauty. There are also many caves in this area due to the limestone; some are cave systems that are many miles long.

Getting there:

Diana, Lane, John and I left Catamaran on the launcha – Sledge Hammer – around noon and had an excellent lunch at Sundog. The mini bus that runs to Semac Champey area arrives between 1:00 and 2:00; well for us it arrived just after 2:00pm.

We climbed aboard with 2 other travelers and set off for Semuc Champey. The driver took the route that headed towards El Estor at the end of Lake Isabal. This stretch of 20 odd miles was really quite comfortable and we began to wonder why previous travelers had complained of such an uncomfortable, wild journey.

 

 

The driver turned off onto a track and headed up a steep uphill. From then on it was one of the roughest rides imaginable. The track was a rocky, bolder strewn lane that wound its way uphill for miles. There was really only enough width for one vehicle, but we still met large trucks and other vehicles coming the other way.

However the countryside and views were stunning. The entire journey on this track up and through the mountains took just over 5 hours, with 1 stop to use the loo in the wild outdoor banjos. I must say it was an exciting journey but the best was yet to come.

 

We arrived in Lanquin after dark, off loaded and had a short wait for our next stage of the journey. What arrived was a small open truck with the bars across the top for an awning, but in our case they were there to hang onto. Off into the night we went steeply up and downhill. It really was a very bumpy roller coaster ride along the tracks leading to Utopia our hostel/hotel. After an hour we succeeded in arriving. We all piled into the bar and restaurant area in much need of a few drinks and a meal.

 

Utopia:

 

Utopia is a wonderful hostel/hotel hidden away in the national forest where Semuc Champey is located. It is a place where free spirits feel at home. It has a vegetarian family meal every evening, but if necessary one can order from the menu. We were very happy to sit, enjoy our alcoholic beverages and the family style meal.

 

 

 

All the folks there were much younger than our group. Guessing I’d say they were all in their twenties, maybe early thirties, but we felt well at home chatting with them.

Utopia is located above the Cahabon River looking out over the river and the mountain slopes opposite; it is a very lovely location. The main building is an open large veranda with a bar, relaxation area, seating in the form if hammocks and swings, plus a few long tables. One table had a planter of herbs, (some of which is “herb”) growing down the center.

 

 

 

A very casual and relaxed atmosphere is the norm there. The hostel area was above while the cabanas were throughout the property. The gardens have many flower-bordered paths that lead to the cabanas. Our cabanas were above the river, and rustically but adequately furnished. We were shattered from our full day of travel and by the time we got to bed we needed our sleep.

Day one:

Caving, swinging into the river, bridge jumping, hiking, Semuc Champey and tubing down the river were our activities.

We set off in the “truck”, all 14 of us, plus backpacks hanging onto the crossbars. The area we went to is only 8 miles away, but it is a wild ride up and down very steep rough tracks.

 

Arriving at a yellow bridge we unloaded and followed our guide along the banks of the Cahabon River to where we were going caving in the K’anba Caves. We were all prepared, wearing bathing suits and shorts with good outdoor shoes. Our guide distributed candles, as lights, (yes home-made candles) and led us to the entrance, which was up the cliffside. Once there we had our candles lit and proceeded in a line to enter the cave.

 

This cave system is not a dry one, a river runs through the cave, and it is not a slow moving river, it is rapid and in areas disappears underground, yes, dangerous. In the beginning the guide allowed us to look over a ledge down to where the river disappeared deep into the earth. We had to swim holding our candles above our heads, there were guidelines, which you could grasp, but as most of our group were grasping them they were not very effective. The affect of following a line of candles underground in a river was thrilling! Our guide used dark mud from along the cave’s side, mixed I suspect with bat poops and painted our faces with crazy designs.

The water depth ranged from quite shallow to deep, we wove around rocks and navigated the dark tunnel. When we reached the waterfall we climbed up some rocks out of the river. At the waterfall one had to climb up it and the cliff it while the river was crashing down.

The next part of the journey was drier and wound around large boulders and up steep metal ladders. There was an area where you could jump off a cliff into the dark for a 15 foot drop into the river.

 

At the top, and end of the journey, the guide directed us to sit where there was only a hole and where the river was shooting down. He then basically lets you go …. down, down you fall, under and under you go in the river.

I was thinking I’d never get to the surface when I started to rise. Another guide handed me a lit candle. John who followed me and was really disorientated he came up nearly under the cliff with no light he was completely lost. As we were behind in the group we followed a couple towards where we thought our group had gone. We climbed up a ladder instead of remaining in the river. At the top we had to squeeze through a small gap and then walk around and over some deep holes. That was when we heard our guides calling us. John quickly about faced and promptly fell hard, into one of the deep holes! I was so scared he was badly hurt and here we were deep underground, hours and hours from any help. He staggered to his feet, climbed out and I helped him to get moving again. He felt really busted up and was worried about his ribs and hip. As it turned out he most likely did crack ribs and deeply bruised his back, upper and lower back. John suffered for weeks with the results of that fall.

Back with the group we carefully made our way out of the cave system. It had been a thrilling and exciting journey underground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our guide then took us to where a swing had been rigged to swing out over the river. There we could swing 45 odd degrees over the river then drop into the river about 15 foot below and swim to shore. Only a few of the group tried, I was tempted as I love swings, but after seeing John’s accident I declined the opportunity.

 

 

From the riverbank we went to the bridge where we were shown how we could jump off the bridge into the river way down below. This time the fall was a good 20-foot. Again we just watched while others took up the challenge, jumped and swam to the shore.

 

 

Then it was lunchtime. So off we hiked uphill to a small eatery run by locals. Many of our group bought the lunch, but the four of us had brought a packed lunch. John was in much pain and really finding it difficult to get comfortable. Luckily some of the group had Advil, which he happily took.

Off we headed to see Semuc Champey the real attraction of the area. We hiked along a path which then broke off uphill steeply. Much of the path was straight up a cliff via wooden stairs; it was a tough, hot climb. I was very pleased with my effort and was not last to the top although being one of the oldest. At the top the path led through the rain forest to an out look over the Cahabon River and Semuc Champey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Semuc Champey consists of turquoise river pools. It must be one of the most beautiful sites in the world. The river gorge is steeply sided, the Cahabon River flows aggressivly down, and then disappears underground to reappear as a series of waterfalls some 300 odd meters away.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Above the Cahabon River are the turquoise rock pools that are fed from the cliff walls. Thus you have a river bridge, a river over a river. The pools are turquoise due to the water being fed from the limestone cliff and due to the algae living in them. An amazing area. We all enjoyed the award of the climb, the stunning view.

Then it was down by another route to the river pools below. There we had a closer look of the river disappearing under the river bridge, of the pools and the river emerging from the other end.

The whole group took to the pools to swim. We all ended up following each other from the top 

pools and down the series of pools above the river. We swam, slid down the channels, climbed out and slid down again until we had enjoyed every pool and many natural slides. The water was very refreshing, just wonderful!!

By then it was time to hike back to the bridge and go tubing.

 

 

Tubing to me was to plonk oneself in a tube, relax and slowly drift down the river. Not so, here we were helped into our tubes, with our beers we had purchased from the persistent local venders. Then we were off down a quickly moving river. Before long we were faced with rapids!

Yes, rapids where we were told to lift our bums in order to avoid getting smashed by the rocks below. Now the rapids were not for the faint of heart. I consider myself very fortunate, as I did not get smashed; others were not so fortunate some even crashed into the shore! The wild river tubing ride lasted an hour the end stop being Utopia. It really was great fun and an exhilarating ride. Unfortunately, taking pictures was not an option.

Again the evening we were exhausted, but enjoyed drinks, vegetarian dinner and the company of each other.

Day 2:

Diana and Lane opted to do the Chocolate tour, which consisted of learning the whole process from the growth to the actual making of chocolate. They really had a great time with the owner of Utopia who owns the coca “farm” and they learned a tremendous amount about chocolate. Plus we got to sample their results, which were delicious.

John and I revisited Semuc Champey.

We took a packed lunch, got a ride in the back of the truck and set out to explore further. The truck ride was as rough as before, but I was getting the hang of how to hang on by then.

 

 

Once there we walked up the river leading to the pools, but branched off on a walk that went down river. There you could see the waterfalls from the pools dropping into the river and joining the main river. We walked down river a short way and enjoyed the scenery.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After which we walked back up river to where the river pools were I went swimming while John 

read, resting his injured back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For lunch we walked to where the bridge starts and found a lovely place, which was by the side of the pools for our lunch. By the time we had lunch and walked towards the yellow bridge we were told the truck would be leaving shortly. So we enjoyed a slow walk back and piled into the truck back to Utopia.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back at Utopia we set out to walk the surrounding lanes and countryside.

 

 

 

 

The views were beautiful! The slopes are seriously steep, so you get a good cardio workout too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our last evening was again lovely, good food, great company and wonderful surroundings at Utopia.

Back to Rio Dulce

The next morning we again climbed into the back of the truck with our gear and set off to get our collective from Lanquin.

 

 

 

The day was a cloudy one, but the scenery was stunning. This time around the driver took the rough, rough route about halfway, then headed northward to join the northern road leading back to the Rio.

 

 

 

 

 

 

When the driver hit the smooth tarmac his foot hit the metal and we went like a bat out of hell all the way back.

 

 It was an amazing few days spent at Semuc Champey and Utopia!

 

The purpose of life, after all, is to love it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience – Eleanor Roosevelt

“Each friend represents a world in us, a world possibly not born until they arrive, and it is only by this meeting that a new world is born.” –  Anaïs Nin

 

PHOTOS HERE —>>       https://goo.gl/photos/Gfn54RPAtNboHLXY7

Here we are at the end of September. It is hard to believe another summer has passed. Our September has been quite a mix; with friends we travelled down the Rio aboard Jacques’s lovely 65 foot Fleming trawler to spend a long weekend in Texas Bay. We explored different branches/tributaries of the Rio, went on a day trip to Quirigua an ancient Mayan site, celebrated John’s Birthday and enjoyed several nights out with friends. Plus we had the boat pulled at the beginning of the month, moved into a cabana at Catamaran, worked daily on Aeeshah completing much essential work and had time to enjoy late afternoons in the pool with our buddies at Catamaran. So overall we have been quite busy.

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Texas Bay aboard Atlantic Ranger:

Jacques invited us and Diana and Lane to join him for the weekend at Texas Bay. He had never been, wanted to run his engine, plus there was a lady he was to meet when there.

 

 

 

Anyway, off we set one gorgeous Saturday morning. It really was a magnificent day, the sky deep blue with a few lovely cloud formations, the water was calm and so reflected the sky and mountains, the distant shores were a mix of deep greens from the vegetation on the mountain slopes.

We were one of a number of cruising boats heading into Texas Bay for the weekend as Texas Mike was having a going away dinner on Saturday night and then a big barbeque on the Sunday to celebrate the opening of his new restaurant across the bay. After anchoring we set off to explore the bay, Diana and Lane in the kayaks and John and I with Jacques in the dingy. We enjoyed motoring along the narrow canals through the mangroves, past the homes of the local folks and out to the lake. Most of the weekend was spent this way, exploring by dinghy or kayak, swimming, relaxing aboard Atlantic Ranger listening to Jacques collection of music videos. It as all very enjoyable!

The evening spent at Texas Mike’s was fun as we also met up with other friends and chatted. The food was excellent, both at Texas Mikes and aboard Atlantic Ranger. The local Mayans came around selling their exquisite woven baskets. We each bought a few. Others bought coconut buns, which were great for breakfast. We travelled back on the Monday after all of us having had a wonderful weekend.

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India:

Aeeshah was pulled up at RAM marina at the beginning of the month. We moved into one of the cabanas at Catamaran, one called India. India is a wonderful place to stay. It is at the end of the dock from where we kept Aeeshah.

 

 

 

So now we just leave the dingy alongside the dock outside India. The inside is all varnished wood, even the ceiling. There is a great ceiling fan, AC and quite adequate furnishings. So we are quite comfortable, far more so than if we had tried to stay on the boat in the boatyard and after the work that has been done to Aeeshah, it really would have been near impossible to stay on her for some of the days……more of that later.

Chico was totally confused!

We locked him in India and set off with the boat to RAM, returning much later in the day. Upon being let out Chico walked quickly along the dock towards where Aeeshah his home, had been that morning. He literally looked over the edge of the whole empty dock space as if he thought we had hidden the boat under the dock. Then he promptly jumped onto Lane and Diana’s boat – Dreamsfloat – which was along the other-side of the same dock, as if he wanted to move onboard. Poor fellow he was quite confused. However this only lasted for a short period and he is now very accustomed to living in India and having the whole island at his disposal. To date he has caught and brought in 3 rats, 2 dead and 1 alive, which I promptly chased out of India. He loves being out in the evening and early morning. He visits the pool each late afternoon to watch us as we “swim” and chat with everyone else. He has made friends with all the workers, cruisers and many of the hotel guests. He has even learnt how doors are opened and tries to do the doorknob twist with his paws. Chico is a very adaptable, happy fellow!

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Quirigua Visited:

Quirigua is one of the major testimonies to the Mayan civilization and a visit to this ancient Mayan site was announced on the cruisers net one morning. Fortunately it was scheduled for a day we were free from boat work. A bus was hired for all who wanted to go and we travelled in relative air-conditioned luxury to Quirigua

Quiriqua is completely different from what most people would consider to be a Mayan site. Instead of the iconic tall pyramids, Quirigua has stelaes, – tall stone carvings that have stood for over 1,300 years.

“The monuments, called stelae, contain hieroglyphic texts describing significant calendar dates, celestial events such as eclipses, passages of Maya mythology and political events, as well as important social and historic events to the development of the city.  Not only does this text give a better understanding of the rise and fall of Quirigua, but also describes the span of time between 426 AD to 810 AD making it possible to reconstruct parts of Mayan history. During its brief time of erecting stelae, Quirigua was one of only two cities to regularly erect monuments marking the end of five-year periods.”

The area has been inhabited since approximately 400 BC, which is considered the late pre-classic age of the Mayans. The people who settled in Quirigua are believed to have come from Tikal. At the center of Quiriqua is the Great Plaza, around the Great Plaza, the Ceremonial Plaza and the Plaza of the Temple.

You can see the acropolis, which is perfectly intact and right across from it you can see the sleeping quarters of the city’s rulers. The people of Quiriqua were famed for their jade works. For reasons, which are not clear, Quiriqua entered a period of decline. It is really known at what time this occurred, maybe it was due to the arrival of the European conquerors, or the control of the jade route had been taken over by others more powerful. The city of Quirigua has retained its ruins and vestiges of dwellings but was taken over by the jungle until being “discovered” and restored.

We started the tour with the basic history of Quirigua and then we followed our guide around the plazas, acropolis and the different stelae, of which there are many. The most important monument is Stelae D. It is also the most intact stelae because it was found toppled on the ground. The figure depicted in Stelae D is King K’ak Tilw Chan, who was the “kings of kings” in Quirigua. His claim to fame was his defeat of the rival city of Copan (in Honduras).

The carvings are quite amazing in their intricate details. Plus when you imagine the work that went into detailing the stone it is really incredible! To me one of the amazing features was the ancient tunnel, or underground system of caves and tunnels which apparently leads for miles and miles below the earth to other areas of Guatemala. The Mayans used this as an underground roadway, but it is now sealed off as the drug trafficers had been using it for smuggling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We toured the site for several hours and I enjoyed all of the tour despite the intense heat of the day and being surrounded by jungle with little breeze.

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River tributaries:

John and I had little to do when the boat was 1st hauled and so we explored a few of the river’s tributaries.

 

 

 

We dinged up and explored the areas hoping to find the howler monkeys, which we could occasionally hear. Alas, we never did see the monkeys, but we did find cattle and saw some lovely countryside. Oh and we saw many, many birds.

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John’s Birthday:

Arrived and we were deep into boat work, doing a full working day, so we had thought we would leave any celebration to later sometime.

 

 

 

Well thanks to our friend Peter, who saw the Face book birthday message, a celebration was arranged. Everyone was waiting for John, in the pool, when we returned from working at RAM.

 

It was arranged that we would all then head off to Sundog for an evening of music and dinner. Sundog had several cruisers playing music and singing. The music was songs from the past plus many with a western flavor, quite enjoyable. We all had a good time and John had his Happy Birthday after all.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have since enjoyed other musical nights at Sundog with other friends, 2 of which we 1^st met 5 years previously and set out across the Gulf Stream with them.

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Aeeshah hauled:

Aeeshah was hauled on September 2nd and work commenced immediately. All at once we had the mechanic, carpenter, gel coat person, rudder expert, etc looking at what was to be undertaken.

 

It was decided that the bottom had to be striped of all the paint. Why? Well there were multiple layers of paint from multiple years of paint application.

 

 

 

 

 

 

John knew we had a few “blisters” – areas where the bottom was softer due to water. So the first step was sand blasting the bottom. This took several days, and boy

is it messy….. muck was everywhere, but as a result it was found we had many more blisters than John had determined.

Apparently many years before Aeeshah must have had areas patched, but who ever did it did not patch correctly. So the whole lot had to be redone – ground out, left to dry and then re-patched.

The grinding out of the areas took several days. Then they used a device that could read/sense the water within these areas. Of course they read in the red at first. We then had to wait for these areas to “dry” – get into the green.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well nearly a month later and finally our bottom was all more or less in the green zone. The next step was filling the holes; they

were then ground flat and sanded smooth. Next came the sealer coats – 3 of them. Followed by more smoothing by hand sanding, then the bottom coats were applied, 1, 2 and 3. From there comes the new lines at the water line and the sides.

Finally we get to the polishing and lastly the waxing. All this work was by the marina workers who are really incredible in their standard of workmanship and stamina. We have never see such a high standard of work performance!

Meanwhile, Walter – the carpenter created a new worktop to go onto of the stove. He created and erected a new shelf unit. It is made of teak, intricately detailed, stained and varnished so it looks like an original part of the boat.

Walter then rebuilt the cupboard unit under the sink in the aft head. Due to water damage it had begun to fall apart aka rot. His finished work is just amazing! It is made of proper wood and looks the same but, better than the original. Even the Formica is totally matching.

Finally Walter built steps to fit onto our ladder. It had previously had just stainless rungs, which I felt were quite slippery and dangerous. Again he did an exemplary job. In my book Walter is the best carpenter.

The rudder had been dropped and was to be refitted with the same bushing, but this time around our mechanic advised affixing it with fiberglass.

The engine mounts were to be replaced by him too, but John went ahead and did the job, as he needed work. John also replaced the aft head plumbing, a dreadfully smelly, disgusting job, but it had to be done as it was totally clogged up. Plus John did numerous other maintenance jobs that had been left.

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile I repaired and remade canvas/sunbrella pieces. Many zips needed replacing and seams needed re-stitching. We also had new dingy chaps made, (cover for dingy), but the canvas man we chose took quite a while to get started and even longer to finish. He did do a great job though.

And we had the anchors and chain re-galvanized too!

Our intention is to get the cockpit cushions covered, plus a cover made for the entire bow, but we will go to another canvas man for those jobs. As of writing now we are very close to being back in the water with Aeeshah.

There are only moments. Live in this one. The happiness of these days. – Kate Millett

I am sure there are other versions of happiness, but this one is mine. – Lynsey Addario

 

PHOTOS part 1 CLICK HERE —>>  https://goo.gl/photos/P51pEgM1AZsj2wAYA

PHOTOS part 2 CLICK HERE —>> https://goo.gl/photos/SqmH1hAqnivmiWQs7

As mentioned: when we arrived back at Catamaran Chico was straight off the boat and into the gardens. Following him were Ethan and Rhianna to the pool. We have a daily routine by which the people that are staying in catamaran all meet up in the pool at 3:30 onwards. There we relax and enjoy conversation. Then it was off to the restaurant for some delicious pizza.

 

 

 

The following day poor Rhianna had the dreaded stomach bug that usually is attributed to eating something disagreeable. We were not sure if it was the pizza or that she swallowed pool water.

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Casa Guatemala

Ethan and Re had brought with them some clothing that was to be donated to a worthy cause; I decided it was time to deliver everything. So off Ethan and I set for a place down the river called Casa Guatemala, a home for needy children. Upon arriving we were greeted by the staff in the administration building by the dock. They had limited English and so called a volunteer – Kimmy – who spoke English. We were thanked for the donation and asked if we wanted to have a look around.

The home is for 250 children who come from Mayan families that live in the nearby mountains and are unable to support them. By that these families are termed as ones that are living with absolute poverty. The home feeds them, educates them, and trains them with crafts and trades. Teaches them how to farm, cook, and have most practical skills they need for a successful life back with their families. Most of the children travel back to their families for holidays. They ranged in age from 4 – 14 and were 1/2 girls and 1/2 boys. The children were on break time from their lessons when we visited. They were all quite happily playing or chatting, some little boys were making jewelry form natural objects, and others were helping in the kitchen or with the younger children. Ethan and I were impressed.

The next day when Rhianna was feeling much better John and she bought a sack of tortia flour, rice and black beans. They then delivered the food and had a tour too. Again they were very impressed with Casa Guatemala.

 

Rhianna said, “Pappa and I went to the market and picked up some rice, beans and flour for the orphanage kids. When we went the kids were all watching a movie. We had a look around their cabins and where they slept. It was cool to see how people who don’t have much live. They came over and asked us our names and where we were from. They seemed pretty fascinated by my teeth. (Re has braces)

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Rio Dulce Bridge

The next outing we ventured was a walk over the Rio Dulce Bridge. John and I had been and found it enjoyable. Off we went up the bridge, only to stop just 100 feet up as we could see a parade assembling below. There appeared to be beauty contestants of differing ages atop a truck that was decorated with flowers. There were several bands of teens playing instruments and again all different music, clowns and various other groups of people assembled. After peering down on the entertainment for 5 minutes we set off again over the bridge. It really is a very nice walk with great views across Rio Dulce.

Down the other side we went to Mar Marina and then Backpackers Hostel where we had a refreshing Lemonada. The walk back was less entertaining but still good.

 

 

 

 

Rhianna: “ Today was very exhausting. We walked across the biggest bridge!”

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Boqueron canyon (El Boqueron), on Lago de Izabal

The Río Sauce cuts through the landscape creating the impressive Cañón El Boquerón, or so I read and thought – another outing for us. We got another collective mini bus out of Fronteras and along with our buddy Peter set off to explore this canyon/gorge. This particular collective driver must have been trying to see how many people he could fit in, as the maximum total should be 11, but we ended up with 21 passengers!! Plus one guy on top. It was just crazy, folks hanging out the door and the driver was paying more attention to his phone than the road. Anyway we survived.

Arriving at the river we found that one of the locals will paddle you upstream for about 800 m where I had heard you could swim with the current all the way down the canyon. However as there had been so much rain from the hurricane in northern Guatemala/Belize the river was flowing very fast and was carrying debris – not ideal circumstances. The paddle upriver through the gorge was lovely and quite spectacular.

It’s a deep canyon with lots of old man’s beard and vines hanging down, strange rock formations with differing colouring line the shoreline cliffs. There are supposed to be Howler monkeys, but not that day. We climbed out the canoe into the fast flowing river and clambered up and over the rocks and boulders. The water was lovely and cool. None of us were really prepared for a swim, but we all ended up in the water just soaking ourselves. It was a fun experience, but would have been better a outing when the water was clearer and less of a torrent.

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Finca Xobel

As we couldn’t travel to Belize, we devised a new plan …. A few days spent at place located in a semi remote location. The name of the place: Finca Xobel, which was located near Poptun, on the road to Tikal. We set off early on the 7:30 launcha from Catamaran. We walked with our large backpacks to Bruno’s and had another delicious breakfast and then headed to the bus. We did the usual wait for a bus to arrive and much to our disappointment there was standing room only!! 2 hours later we finally arrived at our destination. It wasn’t so bad as at least we could look out the windows with this bus. The countryside was lovely, lush green fields, rounded hillocks and the local farms passed by as we travelled.

At a checkpoint nearing the end of the ride, Rhianna and I secured a vacated seat at last and the driver asked where we were headed. Consequentially he then stopped the bus at the end of the driveway for Finca Xobel, our destination. From there we had just a 10-minute walk to the eco resort.

Finca Xobel advertises itself as “We are an eco friendly hotel and campground located in the foothills of the Mayan mountains at an elevation of 600 Meters. We are in the northern region of Guatemala, less than 5 kilometers south of the town of Poptún, in a unique setting of pine forest and jungle.”

 

 

 

 

 

We were not disappointed the grounds were just beautiful! We passed fir forested pastures where horses were grazing on such green lush grass. Re was particularly excited as she had been promised horse riding. Unfortunately the clouds were moving in and there was the usual rumble of thunder. We were checked into our tree house – Jupiter. It contained 2 double beds with mosquitoes nets and a pull out single bed, small but adequate. The porch had a hammock and some rudimentary furniture. A rustic accommodation for our 4-day stay.

We had a very nice lunch and then took a walk around the grounds, which are awesome! There is a natural swimming hole – pond I’d call it – after our walk we went for a refreshing swim. It really is refreshing as the swimming hole is fed by a stream that runs across the property the water is quite cool. Dinner was an excellent buffet.

 

Our horse ride was at 9:00 the next morning. Rhianna was very excited. We had an excellent ride of 2 hours through the pine forest, across lush grassy fields and up hillsides, through streams and some jungle.

 

 

My horse chose his own route, so I left him to it and just took photos. Of course he stopped to have a bite to eat as well and then we would do a bit of a trot to catch up. We all mainly walked, but did some trotting and Re got to do a short canter, which really pleased her.

 

 

Re said: “This morning we went on a very long nice horse ride through the hillsides. My horse was Bronzo. Bronzo was a beautiful chestnut, but naughty. He would come to a halt every 5 minutes and then trot to catch up.”

After returning to the tree house we found tics! John who had worn shorts had them in his legs, I had them crawling on my trousers and Re seemed to escape the tics. Anyway as we’re practiced in tic removal we were well able to rid ourselves of the varmints.

That afternoon we had signed up for a cave tour. There were a group of 3 French-Canadian female back-packers who were also coming along too. Not really knowing what was in store for us we were given 2 guides and set out towards the pine forest again. We were told the pathways had not been used in a while and this proved to be true. We hiked through waist high grass, down very muddy lanes and up slippery slopes for an hour and finally on the side of a hill we arrived at a cave entrance. It was a magnificent cave! There were massive columns, stalactites and stalagmites throughout.

We had to climb down inside and move carefully from cavern to cavern around crystal clear pools of water and through mucky floors – which I thought was probably a mix of bat droppings too.

Some of the caverns were several stories high and at one point you could look down on an underground river that runs through the cave.

Rhianna responded: “ The cave was soooo big! Ethan and I were intimidated by the cave spiders”

Very few folks get to see this cave as it is on

private land, so it was quite untouched. For an hour we explored the cave system and then back we hiked to Fincal Xobel. We were all covered in mud, our shoes were just caked, what a mess we all were, but it had been great fun!

 

We had another relaxing evening in our tree house and another excellent dinner that evening.

Next morning we were booked to go to what were called River Pools. The driver pulled up in a Land Rover in we piled and off we drove to an area near Popgun – Las Conchas waterfalls – where the river flowed over rapids that formed pools. It was another beautiful area.

We all enjoyed swimming in the refreshingly cool water. It left you feeling so ultra clean after an hour or so. I enjoyed exploring the river’s shore taking photos. The other 3 were trying to slide down the rapids, which was fine for them as they were wearing shorts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Re said, “Papa and Ethan of course had to go and try and slide down them. I went to give it a try and of course that didn’t end well.”  We spent the entire morning there and then our driver took us back to Fincal Xobel.

Our last afternoon was spent relaxing and wandering around the lovely grounds of Fincal Xobel.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then it was back to Rio Dulce for the last days of Ethan

and Rhianna’s visit. Unfortunately for Ethan and myself one of those days was spent suffering from the dreaded stomach bug. Their last days in Rio Dulce were spent catching up on their schoolwork and such, plus they enjoyed the pool daily and had another movie night. This movie night was aboard Peter’s boat. We all shared pizza, chicken and salad followed by the movie “Solo around the Americas” by Matt Rutherford. It was a great night.

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Antigua

We were off to spend a few days in Antigua before Ethan and Rhianna flew back to Bermuda. Only problem being John was now ill with the dreaded stomach bug and he had it bad. So the three of us set off alone on Monday August 15th on the 8:00am bus for Antigua via Guatemala City. After the bus ride down the teens were dreading the return journey, but as it turned out it was easy peasy.

 

We arrived in Antigua after 2 buses and 1 taxi ride to our hotel. We were staying in Uxlabil Galeria, which is an eco hotel. It was really an old, old, home that had been converted into a small 9-room hotel. Our room was on the top floor, had an open covered porch outside our door, which led to the roof. The view from the roof was amazing! Ahead we had the Volcan de Agua and around the other peaks. Our bathroom also looked out towards the volcano. We were all very happy with the room.

 

 

 

 

The three of us set off to stretch our legs and get aquatinted with Antigua. We found our hotel was ideally situated, just up from the Iglesias La Merced and not far from the Parque Central – the main square. Antigua is just delightful; its lanes are still original with the large cobblestones. The buildings too are untouched from when they were originally built.

 

Antigua is at an elevation of 5,029 feet (1,533 meters). The old city is known for its magnificent setting at the base of the surrounding volcanoes. Its spring like climate means that the weather is very comfortable. This was noted by Ethan who said he could walk all day in the Antigua climate.

 

 

Having been the capital of the former captaincy general, Antigua was once the most important seat of Spanish colonial government between Mexico City and Lima, Peru. It was founded as Santiago de los Caballeros de Guatemala in 1527 and it was destroyed by an eruption that swept down from the slopes of Volcán de Agua 

(“Volcano of Water”). The village that became reestablished on the site came to be called Ciudad Vieja (“Old City”). Antigua is noted chiefly for the ruins of colonial edifices, many of which were churches and monasteries that make it a museum of Spanish colonial history and an UNESCO World Heritage site.

 

 

 

For our first day in Antigua and as I was alone with the teens, I felt I needed to be somewhat imaginative to keep them “entertained” so decided on a walking tour, which I turned into a “hunt” or “ navigate our way to the different sites like a treasure hunt”. I’m sure if I’d said Nana wants to visit all the ruins, churches and such they would have revolted, however the “hunt” for our trail worked really well.

We set off by getting a taxi to Cerro de la Cruz. Cerro de la Cruz provides fan excellent view looking south over town toward Volcán de Agua. The prominent cross at the head of the lookout point is devoted to the Antigua’s patron saint. Ethan and Rhianna were very impressed with the view; they both said it was awesome!

 

 

We left and walked down the wooded pathway back towards the old city. I was a bit apprehensive as there had been some muggings along this path, so we timed our decent with a large group of fairly fit looking folks.

 

 

From the bottom we followed our Lonely Planet route. Instructions said: “At bottom turn right, down a cobbled street. You’ll come to a basketball court backed by the ruins of Iglesias de la Candelabra.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we were told to go left along a high yellow wall to glimpse the Templo de Santa Rosa de Lima a small church on private grounds.

 

From there we were directed to: Converto Capuchinas, with its unique tower, a convent that cared for orphans and women in the 1700s but was badly damaged in the volcanic explosion.

 

 

The Iglesia El Carmen, and the handicraft market were our next stops.

Followed by, Converto de Santa Teresa and Iglesias y Converto de Santa Clara just a few of the convents and churches all kept in excellent condition.

 

 

It was nearing lunchtime we were close to Iglesias de Nuestra Señora de La Merced, which is close to our hotel. This church and monastery was not as badly damaged by the volcanic eruption. We wandered around the old monastery and then into the church. It really is a magnificent church.

Ethan applied some Holy water on Rhianna’s head, both were somewhat uncomfortable wandering around the church, not being used to churches they found it unnerving, – so they said.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a lunch break we hit the trail again. Walking to the Calle Del Arco and under Arco de Santa Catalina, which was built as part of the 17th century Convent of Santa Catalina Virgin and Martyr, was for “imprisonment”, which means that its nuns avoided contact with people of the city in general. They could walk over the arch/bridge from the convent to the church without having any contact. It again is a lovely street with the quaint buildings, shops and vendors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end there is the Parque Central where we were instructed to ascend to the balcony of the Palacio del Ayuntamiento to see the square from above. From there we walked the square seeing the Catedral de Santiago and various other historic buildings. It was then time to return to our hotel to meet John, who had felt well enough to travel that day to Antigua.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our next day we explored the lanes and alleyways on our way to the market.

 

 

 

 

 

Just expecting a regular market we were surprised by its size. It is a huge market where you can find absolutely everything and anything. We spent the rest of the morning walking the tiny alleyways between the different vendors looking at the rich variety of produce and merchandise.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Afterwards we found our way via several alleyways to the craft market. Here we all enjoyed looking at the beautiful crafts for sale. The textiles are just wonderful. The workmanship is excellent. I just loved all the colorful fabrics, masks and bags.

 

 

 

 

John took Ethan and Rhianna to the airport at 4:30am the next morning, it was time for them to head home. Afterwards we enjoyed Antigua for a few hours and then headed into Guatemala City for our bus back to the Rio the following day.

 

 

 

 

 

“The question is not what you look at—but how you look and whether you see.” – Henry David Thoreau

 

PHOTOS link here –>> https://goo.gl/photos/9DkRP97tDkXSgcPP7

Grand teens in Guatemala for a month:

After carefully planning and booking the hotels and buses we set off for Guatemala City to meet Ethan and Rhianna for their annual summer vacation with us. The bus was leaving at 9:30, but we got the 7:30 launcha from Catamarans’ into the town and had breakfast at Bruno’s. Plus the swap meet was on at Bruno’s and John wanted to see what was on offer. Turned out, nothing of much value was at the swap meet.

On the bus we had seats at the front, but this makes little difference to being able to look out as the front windows, (except where the driver sits), are curtained closed. I found it quite claustrophobic with only a side window to look out. Anyway we were off. This is quite a long ride for someone who rarely travels by bus, but you soon settle in. The first half was through farming areas with crops of various types and cattle. There was a movie to watch, American movie in Spanish some sort of comedy, which John seemed to like. I just gazed out the window at the passing scenery. After 2 & 1/2 hours we stopped at a lay by with a canteen where we could purchase all types of foods, which smelt and looked great. Off again we went towards Guatemala City, this section of the drive was into and up the mountains where we could see that areas of extensive road work and mining was taking place. Finally we arrived in Guatemala City finding we had to change busses from our big one to a smaller one, as they do not allow the larger busses in the city. Then it was a taxi to the hotel…. 6 hours of travel for about 200 miles, whew!

The next morning we visited a Guatemala City Wal-Mart to see what was there. When we were riding in a taxi back to our hotel there was: BANG! An explosion and smoke rising on the left side of the taxi as he swerved across the road. No it wasn’t a gunshot. More or less instantly a cop appeared, the taxi driver tried his best to move the car just reaching the curb where he apologized and waved down another taxi for us, apparently John said the left front brake had seized, over heated causing the wheel to seize and us to skid.

Off we went in another taxi to meet Ethan and Rhianna at the airport arrivals. Their plane was early, we discovered that at Guatemala airport nobody but the travelers can enter, so we had to wait for them outside on the sidewalk. We waited and waited; it seemed hundreds of passengers with their baggage poured out, but no Rhianna and Ethan. After an hour and the airport appearing near empty we finally saw them. They told us that one of their bags had been lost and the lady in charge of lost luggage, Sandra, would not let them through till it was located, which it finally was in Miami. They then arranged for the bag to be flown in that night and delivered to our hotel. Finally they were through and we dropped their only bag off – it actually contained clothes for donation to an orphanage. We all went for a walk and spent the rest of what was left of the day at a nearby mall, of course they did enjoy a Big Mac there.

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The next morning we caught the 9:00am bus to Rio Dulce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

At about an hour from Guatemala City we encountered a hold up. This was in the mountains – where they were doing some “road works” and mining. Well the hold up lasted 3 hours! Our bus literally sat more or less in the same spot for 3 hours! There was time to watch 2 cruddy movies, which were played in Spanish, (I read and watched all the traffic squeezing past and cutting in line ahead). Now in Guatemala road works means pushing anything not wanted off the edges of the roads and down onto the slopes below. While mining seems to mean digging up everywhere, with no retaining walls or such. Huge diggers and equipment just working or parked precariously on huge mounds of soil or massive boulders. So above us we had the mining around us we had road works and traffic. The traffic was mainly made up of massive trucks, as there are no trains all produce is carried by road. Oh and the roads are single lane, but as Ethan noted here the 18 wheeler drivers seem to have an uncanny knack for squeezing passed and making 2 lanes into 3. Another notable point was there were venders wandering up and down in and out of the traffic selling foods, cold drinks, snacks and such. So this indicates that these traffic hold ups are the norm.

Finally we moved off and then the rain arrived, torrential rain and we had trees in the road to get around. When finally we were in Rio Dulce, (in the rain), we managed to secure a ride on a launcha – that’s a river taxi – arriving at last at Catamaran at 8:00pm. It was a long tedious day. Rhianna: “We had the longest ever bus ride of my life, and the longest I will probably ever have”.

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Fronteras otherwise known as Rio Dulce

The next day we spent introducing Ethan and Rhianna to Fronteras otherwise known as Rio Dulce. Their reaction was complete surprise to what they saw, it really is quite an incredible “town” you could see just about anything at anytime. Re said: “It was very unexpected. Cars – not afraid to hit anyone. Trucks – carrying cows, around dozens in each truck. Motor bikes – carrying children around of any age, some even driving the bikes!” Re was freaked out by all the guns the rancheros and that the security people were carrying. Now she doesn’t even look twice, Ethan said he was shocked by how vibrant and colorful the town is, “its better than watching a movie as its the real thing.”

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Castillo San Felipe

Castillo San Felipe was where we first went exploring. This is a Spanish colonial fort at the entrance to Lake Isobel.

 

 

Lake Izobel is a large 25/5 miles lake at the head of the Rio Dulce. The fort was strategically situated at the narrowest point on the river to protect the Spanish ships against marauding pirates. The Spanish used the Castillo de San Felipe for several centuries, during which time it was destroyed and looted several times by the pirates. We dingied there – it is 2.5 miles from Catamaran Marina. We had an excellent morning exploring this wonderful, well-preserved Castillo, which is also a World Heritage site.

Rhianna: “Today was so much fun! We went to a very large fort, with many caves within it. The fort had an underground entrance to the prison which we went and explored. It had many large towers mainly where the cannons were placed.” After which we went to Sundog for a very tasty lunch.

 

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Finca Paraiso

Friday I had planned for us, along with a friend Peter to get a collective – that’s a small mini bus that travels a route picking up and dropping off the locals – to go to Finca Paraiso, our first adventure. We had breakfast at Bruno’s where we leave the dingy, found the correct collective, by walking the street and asking, squeezed in and were off. The driver let us off and pointed to the lane to follow.

There some little girls ran up from a village by the river with some coconuts. They very quickly used their large sharp knives to hack the top open, popped a straw in for us. We “bought” 2 for 10Q – $1.50. They were chilled and very refreshing, only Ethan dared to have a sip.

Down the lane through the trees we hiked and found the falls. Rhianna: “We went to a super cool waterfall! One side of the waterfall was pouring out the coldest water ever and the other side was pouring out the hottest water ever!”

Finca Paraiso is a unique place. There is a hot river spring, which runs and meets a cold/normal river; they merge at the falls, which drop 12m into a turquoise pool below. So under the falling water there can be warm to hot water, then just off a ways you get cold water. Plus you can go under the falls to a small caves where it’s steamy. The area is very scenic. There were only us 5 plus a few other folks there,  we had a wonderful morning swimming, playing in the falls and climbing the rocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most days we go off to purchase our different foods. The teens have such differing reactions to the town. Ethan finds it very entertaining and interesting while Re seems quite intimidated by the sites and smells. We stocked up on what we hoped would be enough foods for our trip down the Rio Dulce.

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Our trip down the Rio Dulce.

Texas Bay was our first destination down the river. John and I had found it incredibly beautiful when we stopped in there several weeks prior. Ethan’s reaction was it was a lovely, peaceful, place with wonderful scenery. Re reported: “The scenery was quite incredible!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our friend Jacque had loaned us 2 kayaks, which were just wonderful to paddle around the narrow canals and the waterways of the area. We all explored and toured the numerous mangrove tunnels, lily ponds, small lakes and neighborhoods of the whole area which covers several squares miles at least.

Rhianna: “When we went for a kayak ride down the river I had a massive spider fall down onto the kayak. After screaming Papa knocked it off.”

 

 

 

The locals and some forigners have their homes right in the mangroves. I couldn’t live like that as I’d be a meal for the mosquitoes, but they seem unaffected by the no-see-ums and mossies. There is a small bar and restaurant there run by an American and his local wife. We went for dinner on our second night and despite the bug repellant I was bitten all over my feet and legs by the beasts. Re also was bitten, but I seemed to be the main meal. No I’d never live in or around the mangroves.

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Agua Caliente

Close to Texas Bay is the hot sulphur springs and limestone caves. We dingied to the area through the mangrove canals on our second day and had a tour. It is located just as the walls of the gorge reach the lake of El Golfette. Now the pathway leads uphill through the jungle to a small cave entrance. Here our guide showed us the way deep into the network of limestone caves and passages. Some places we climbed right under having to nearly crawl, other places were narrow and we had to squeeze by. He showed us stalactites, stalagmites and columns explaining in Spanish how they are formed. Re and Ethan were able to translate much of what he said and John and I really did pick up much of the explanation too. The guide showed us where the tunnel leads to a huge chamber, where there are fossils and took a picture of us there. Then he finished up by showing us the bats hanging at the entrance.

From there we went to the hot spring, which is referred to as a sauna. Again we trekked through the jungle to a cave entrance. Here only a few at time could enter, so I went in with Ethan and Rhianna. Well it was as hot as hell! Instantly you are covered in sweat, just melting, dripping, unbelievably hot. The teens climbed down the ladder to the hot water pooled below and found it boiling. They quickly exited; I stayed and climbed down with John to feel the water. It’s only hot on the surface and then cold underneath, thus forming all the steam billowing upwards. When I exited the cave it was into what felt like air conditioning even though the temperature was in the 90s. Apparently I looked like I had been swimming, I was that wet. Rhianna: We went to the hot springs today and into caves where there were bats. In the caves we followed the pathways and had a ton of fun. Just below the caves there were hot springs. The hot springs were so hot that I had to leave straight away!

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Down the gorge…

We had an excellent several days in Texas Bay, but there was no wifi. Yes, the teens survived without using their phones. Our plan had always been to get to Livingstone for July 30th, stay the night, ride the high tide across the bar and head to Belize for a short visit and to snorkel the reefs. We enjoyed a wonderful trip through the gorge. Both Rhianna and Ethan were as in awe of the journey as everyone is who makes it. It really is just incredibly beautiful and absolutely amazing to do the trip on a sailboat with the gorge at your sides.

Arriving in Livingstone we had a signal! But the news was not good. Unfortunately forming off the Eastern Caribbean area were 2 questionable areas. One of which did just today, 5 days later pass over Belize and skirted southern Guatemala. The trip was called off. Showing them the weather charts, explaining the outcome of what could happen they accepted the news that the Belize trip not possible.

Livingstone

 

We visited the town of Livingstone, which again is a very different place. Livingston is noted for its unusual mix of Garifuna people’s and their traditions. All the black communities living on the Caribbean coast of Central America are commonly called Garifuna or Black Carib, or as they refer to themselves, Garinagu.

Re had her hair braided. We were followed all through the town, to the playas and encouraged by a very large lady to get Re’s hair braided. What started off as just 2 braids turned into a full head weave. “Cause she has too much hair for two” she told us. Anyway Re had wanted her hair done for the past few years and now it has happened, looks lovely and she is much cooler. Rhianna: Livingstone is a very lively place, and I guess thats where its name came from. Today I got my hair braided into 8 braids. It looks very nice. We went through the markets and picked up a few groceries.” 

We had an excellent lunch, explored all over the town, showed the teens the local laundry, which shocked them, went back to the boat and headed back up river.

 

 

 

Our last night we anchored off a small island at the beginning of the Golfete Lake.

It was lovely and peaceful. Again we were visited by children in dugouts they had baskets and little carved boats for sale. Ethan had bought one beautiful basket at Texas Bay. He bought his sister another lovely basket, I chose another and John purchased a boat. The craftsmanship is amazing and at only 20Q apiece they are amazingly inexpensive. We gave the children a lolli pop, each which seemed to make them very happy.

Back at Rio Dulce we tied up at Catamaran. No sooner than we touched the dock Chico was off the boat, onto the dock and heading off. His attitude was one of, “thank goodness that trip is over now let me enjoy myself”. We enjoyed getting our ton of laundry cleaned and stocking up on fresh supplies. Believe it or not one half of their visit was nearly over!

 

 

How we pay attention to the present moment largely determines the character of our experience and, therefore, the quality of our lives. – Sam Harris

Not only is your story your truth, your story is going to be the platform and the foundation for everything that’s getting ready to happen in your life.  – DeVon Franklin

 

PHOTOS HERE –>>  Up the Rio Dulce, Guatemala or https://goo.gl/photos/n9c9pUZjJMq7x6Ax7

On July 3rd we were headed to Rio Dulce along with a group of 4 other boats, Dutch, Canadian and American folks we had met in Utila. Why all together? We all needed the same super high tide of the 4th July 06:45 hours in order to pass over the bar that is at the Rio Dulce’s mouth.

This was an over night passage that took us just 20 miles off the Honduras coast. John and I plus the Dutch boat Rafiki gave the reefs off of Utila a wide berth. We had been told that while the charts show depths of 100feet they were not accurate.

Two of the other boats chose to sail into the sun and through the reefs/banks off the Utila coast – why? Because they were foolish and sure enough one of them hit a reef. They were momentarily on the reef and then, luckily for them released with minimal damage.

The passage for us was more or less a straightforward downwind sail that went well arriving off the coast of Guatemala around 5:00am. The seas had been very rough and it seemed everything inside the boat was thrown around; there was a big mess below. The wind was up to 30knots and blowing into where we were, but we tucked in and anchored off Cabo Tres Puntas ready for our 4th July early morning assault of the Rio Dulce bar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a restful day and night we arose in time to motor across towards the Rio’s entrance. As it got closer we could see Livingstone the settlement on the side with the entrance to the river behind. Nothing is ever as one imagines. To me the Rio and immediate area looked much larger than imagined.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had been given way-points, (co-ordinates), of the best line of approach and way to cross over the bar. As we lined up and followed the points the depth got more and more shallow, it was like tucking our tummy in to squeeze over a fence. The depth went to 0.00 and stayed there with the depth alarm sounding for a good 4 minutes and then it got deeper and deeper again. We were over!

 

 

 

 

Along with all the boats we set off with. Two other boats that arrived a later and did not seem to follow the same tracks got stuck on the bar, but with a coordinated effort between them freed themselves and did eventually cross.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our agent Raul came out to us along with the authorities. It was very easy entering the country all we had to do was hand over our documents and sign a few papers. After about three minutes they left for the next boat leaving instruction to visit Raul’s office for our finalized paperwork.

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Livingstone is quite unlike anywhere else we had traveled to, this largely Garifuna town is fascinating in itself. The town Livingstone is called ‘Buga’ – mouth – in Garifuna, for its position at the river mouth.

 

 

Unconnected by road from the rest of the country it does however have cars and trucks that have arrived via barges and are just used in Livingstone to drive around the few streets delivering goods. They say that if everyone is on the road in their vehicles at the same time there is a halt in the movement of traffic as the roads are totally jammed. Boat transportation has to be quite good here as it is the only form of transport and you can get up river, to Belize, the cays and Puerto Barrios with a minimum of fuss. We enjoyed walking around exploring the few streets taking in the colourful sites and buying wonderful fruit.

Once our paperwork was cleared we up anchored and headed towards the entrance of the river gorge.

 

 

 

           

Every hurricane season hundreds of cruisers check into Guatemala and make the trek to the hurricane-safe environment the river provides. This year I am told 1,200 boats/cruisers are somewhere on this river. Now we too were 1 of these cruising boats heading up river.

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John and I really feel that few cruising experiences are more stunning than a trip up the riverfrom Livingston. Cliff walls of limestone 500 feet tall flank the gorge sides whittled away by the Rio’s water flow over millions of years.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Trees of numerous types have taken root on the rocky cliffs with first one and then the other reaching higher and higher upwards to gain the light of the sun.  Thick vines and tendrils from some trees plummet in the opposite direction to the water.  On every other tree branch, huge bromeliads and purple orchids spring outward.  White herons dot the deep green foliage as they bob lazily on limbs; cormorants air their wings and rest atop sunken logs. It is quiet, but for the sound of the birds singing, breathtakingly beautiful, mystifying and inviting.

Looking across the water against the dramatic backdrop, you can spot fishermen quietly huddled in their Cayucos (dugout canoes), some others of them standing to throw nets, while others of them are tucked under the bottom canopy of overhanging branches.  They lower and raise hand-fishing lines connected to something that will float, a piece of Styrofoam or a plastic bottle.  Patiently they wait in the hopes of catching a perch or better yet a Robalo. Then a river taxi will fly by carrying visitors up or down river to their destinations.

As we slowly made our way up the Rio around the bends and u turns we took photos and videos trying to capture the magnificence of our surroundings. Our journey from the mouth to Texas Bay where we stopped for the night was about 10 miles and took us just over 2 hours, but time seemed to fly as it was quite the incredible journey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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At Texas Bay we were again surprised by being able to wind our way into a secluded almost lagoon type anchorage – it was like being anchored in a large pond. There we found a number of friends anchored too, Steve and Anna on Bad Kitty and Rian and Rob on their friend Jeff’s boat. Everyone was there for the promised celebration of dinner and fireworks at the Texas Bay bar.

 

 

John and I explored in the dingy the surrounding canals and mangrove areas connecting to the main river and tributaries. Again it was just incredibly beautiful, all the different trees, flowers, butterflies, dragonflies, vines hanging down into the water, the water lilies along the surface and all reflected on the water’s surface. For a photographer there is a feast of images!

The indigenous people have dark, raven, hair and the warm caramel skin of the Mayan heritage.  When passing their thatched wooden homes that are built on stilts over the water, they are hesitant to openly gesture or gawk. However once you smile and wave in their direction, they respond in kind. The children appear to be very happy playing, swimming and fishing in the Rio.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The sailboat Rafiki that we had traveled with from Utila arrived and together we enjoyed the evening at the Texas Bay bar. As it was a special occasion a pig had been roasted. It was delicious! Fireworks went off in spurts, the local children were totally enthralled by the firework display. It was a great 1st evening on the Rio.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Off we went the next morning, from Texas Bay the journey changes as you cross El Golfete a 9 nautical mile long lake. The morning we crossed the lake was a perfect sailing breeze/wind. So up went the jib and off we sailed smoothly across the flat surface of the lake. Just incredible to think we were way inland in Guatemala sailing across a lake.

 

 

 

Towards the end of the lake we curved in our passage around a few islets, down a dogleg and arrived in Rio Dulce marina zone. The marinas are on both sides of the river with the large Rio Dulce Bridge with the town of Fronteras at the end and El Relleno at the other. Under the bridge and on the other side are several more marinas and finally Lago de Izabal/Lake Isobel.

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We chose to anchor in Ensenada Nana Juana, which is the area where several of the larger marinas – RAM Marina and yacht club and Nana Juana – can be found. Our reasoning was that we needed to check the area and the marinas before we decided where to base our

 

 

 

selves. We had been advised by friends about the different marinas, but we needed to see for ourselves if there was one that would suit Chico, plus have faculties for Ethan and Rhianna who were soon to arrive for a month.

Off to visit the town we went and what a surprise it is when you first arrive. The town of Fronteras AKA Rio Dulce lives up to its name and is a real “frontier” town with stalls selling every imaginable item, spilling over the pavement and into the road. Along the narrow roadway, (just 1 lane in each direction with plenty of potholes), travel giant articulated trucks, jostling with little 3-wheel “Tuc Tuc” taxis, bikes loaded with 4 plus passengers, old cars and mini vans serving as collective buses. The stereos blare music, and there are people of every type everywhere. It is a town that is always entertaining to visit, as there is just so much to watch, really anything and everything could and does happen in Fronteras. John and I were well impressed. What a vibrant place to spend several months!

Next we visited several marinas along the river. There are stores, restaurants and marinas, which can only be reached from the river. We were impressed with all the marinas we visited. The marina we had previously been thinking of staying at was on the other side of the bridge. We decided that there was just no chance of a breeze in that area, many of the others seemed to have masses of mosquitoes, which I am reluctant to have around if avoidable. We chose Catamaran Hotel and Marina as our base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Catamaran Hotel and Marina is just wonderful! Our friends Gillian and Gordon off N’Aimless had recommended this marina and it really is the best one for us. We have a side tie, it’s quiet, with lovely gardens, a pool that is partly shaded in the afternoon, a bar, restaurants, cabanas over the water and most importantly is safe for Chico to wander around, (all for only $200 a month).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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John and I also dinged to town and walked to and over the Rio Dulce bridge one morning. Which incidentally, I believe the US Army Corp. of Engineers were contracted to build. They did a magnificent job. The view from the top is spectacular looking down and out across the Rio in both directions. Of course, in true Guatemalan fashion, vendors have set up shop at the top selling all sorts of drinks and eats. Tour buses and cars stop for tourists to take photos. Can you imagine the authorities allowing that on a freeway or motorway bridge? We loved the views and happened upon Steve and Anna strolling across the bridge too.

 

 

 

Meanwhile John had employed 3 fellows to polish the stainless steel on Aeeshah. These young men were very inexpensive to hire, worked for less than 2 full days, polished the stainless until it was like brand spanky new. Even the inside of the barbecue was shining like new. It was just amazing!

Before we knew it the time had arrived to travel to Guatemala City to meet Rhianna and Ethan arriving July 18th.

 

“The pessimist complains about the wind; the optimist expects it to change; the realist adjusts the sails.”  – William Arthur Ward

“If you are lucky enough to find a way of life you love, you have to find the courage to live it.”  – John Irving

 

PHOTOS HERE–>>  Utita, Honduras Bay islands

Utila

Was just a half-day sail away from Roatan and we had a lovely sail there. In Utila we 1st anchored away from the main Harbour as our cruising guide had suggested. That was not good info as the bay had wind and seas coming right into the bay with us backing on the reef. Yes, lovely location but risky.

 

 

 

We moved the next morning to Puerto Este – East Harbour. Steve on catamaran Bad Kitty had warned us that the holding was not good – he had dragged. Sure enough later in the afternoon just when the wind blew up to 39knots our anchor dragged. It was action stations, me on the bow in the wind and rain getting the snubber off the anchor chain, John at the helm trying to keep us into the wind. He said it was tough as the wind really had us and we were just whipping along sideways. Anyway we got ourselves re-anchored and secure again, we hoped.

Utila is a delightful island. Its main and only town is Puerto Este – East Harbour. We had an access dock at Bush’s Grocery store, which was excellent for supplies too.

We explored the town and part of the shoreline over the bridge. The town is full of interesting family stores selling everything you could need. A quaint, tidy, colourful place to explore.

 

 

 

The shoreline beyond the bridge is rugged as the waves pound ashore there. We could see that there were many new homes being built. They looked to be for the upper income bracket, and still appeared to be on the market. A nice place to live but very exposed to the weather.

 

 

 

 

 

Pumpkin Hill and Robinson Crusoe

Off we set one morning on an impromptu hike. We had hoped to whale shark watch, but there was no trip on so in bathing suits and flip-flops we headed across island to check out Pumpkin Hill and to see Robinson Crusoe’s look out.

It is said that Robinson Crusoe was ship wrecked on Utila and that that is where the story comes from, so Utila is known as the Robinson Crusoe Island. Anyway our walk to Pumpkin Hill turned out to be a track through marshy, forested farmland. And before long we had clouds of mosquitoes all around us. Being true sports we kept going, I used small branches with leaves to try to swish away the mosquitoes, but really to little effect.

The walk turned out to be quite long, 1 hour 30 minutes to get there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was the shoreline with a beach and again it was pretty. We sat had an orange and then headed to the lookout. This was the only high point on the island, Pumpkin Hill.

 

 

 

There was a good view across the whole island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the walk back my tactic was speed, figuring the faster I was the fewer bites I would get. Well we made it back in 45 minutes, but we were both well bitten and I was very over heated with sore feet and chaff.

 

 

 

 

 

Our one wish was to go whale shark watching. So everyday we would check if a trip was going out. Finally, just as we had given up we received a call to go at 9:00am that day, our last day in Utila. So off we went in the boat with our guide. There was a young teen girl Andeara and her granddad, Pedro with us.

Our guide headed out to the north side of Utila. The seas were quite rough as the wind was up and blowing 15 – 20K. Our young captain watched for the tell tale signs of whale sharks – birds swooping in flocks above the water and feeding on bait fish with tuna feeding too. We spotted the birds swooping and followed them for quite some time while they fed on the baitfish, but no whale sharks were there to feed that day. Off we went to the shallow reef to snorkel instead.

The snorkeling was brilliant! Utila’s reefs are in excellent condition with wonderful corals and numerous fish of all types and sizes. It was a good half-day out even if we never saw a whale shark. There is always next time and we both want to go back to Utila again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    It was time to head to Rio Dulce Guatemala!

 

 

 

“Envisioning our hopes provides a path, as luminous as a beam of moonlight. Once you’ve visualized what you wish, an inner road is being cobbled for you to follow.”  Chris Downie