La Paz to La Cruz our adventures continue.

PHOTO LINK –>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/stuv3MAoXFfmk3Y9A

 

It was time to leave Marina Cortez La Paz.

Our first stop was the usual, Bahia Falso where we made much needed water and John cleaned the bottom of Aeeshah. That is one very yucky, disgusting job. The Pacific is very nutrient rich therefore the bottom of the boat becomes an absolute and total environment for all types of sea-life.

This happens easily within 3 weeks. When John finishes he comes out of the water covered in loads of this sea-life that was living on and in the growth.

Moral of the story is pay for someone to do it for you!

We never did get ashore in this bay where we had stopped so many times. Maybe next time……

Bahia Mujares

The bay where we first landed way back in October was our next stop. It took the full day to get there, sailing 10% and motor sailing the rest of the 48 miles.

We stayed the night and would have loved to stay longer, but the weather dictated that we move along to:

Bahia Frailes

This was another long day, 46 miles away, but we did a good bit of sailing, mind you in rough seas and nearly landing on top of a whale at one stage.

We were lucky enough to be given a full whale display by a pod very near us. These incredible animals are able to dance into the air with so much grace. They play, they tumble and splash having a whale of a time!

Bahia Frailes is magnificent. It is huge with mountains in the distance, a very large beach along the shoreline with a fishing village along part of it. And finally we were able to go ashore the next day.

Before going ashore we went for a dinghy ride along the rugged shoreline. The cliffs were amazing! all differing rock shapes with some balanced in impossible angles.

Plus, there were seals! Adorable seals sunning themselves.

They looked at us and wondered what the interest was in looking at them. How they haul themselves up the rocks is hard to comprehend.

The landing on the beach in our new dinghy was a challenge, I was dragged by the weight of the dinghy into the surf, then nearly had the dinghy crash back on top of me.

Meanwhile John was unable to control the dinghy either. The moral of the story for me is….do not try to land on a beach in this dinghy when there is even moderate surf! 

Off along the beach in wet sandy clothes I headed. This beach is also quite wide and has a downward grade so the sand is loose making walking quite challenging in the hot sunshine. However it was enjoyable finally being ashore after several days on Aeeshah.

At the end of the beach I followed a wash inland towards the large sand dunes. 

Meanwhile John had to walk towards the dunes to read the turtle sanctuary sign. By the time he caught up with me I was on top of the dunes. He too was really feeling the heat.

The view from the dunes was lovely. One could see right across the wash and lowland to the mountains.

We left the dunes and walked towards the fishermen’s camp. There looked to be nobody about, but the regular sea birds on the shoreline.

The previous evening I had watched the fishing boats going ashore….they go full speed at the beach and fly up on the sands to a waiting jeep with a trolly. It’s quite a unique method of getting the large 20/25ft boats out of the water.

Leaving the next morning we were headed towards the mainland, Buccerias Bay with Punta Mita as our way point. The passage overall was normal.

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The first day being far windier than the second, we were able to sail. The second day was a motor sail, but in far calmer conditions. The seas are always very confused and for me that is uncomfortable.

Brown Boobies, the bird type

We had Brown Boobies join us for the whole passage.

It started with 1.

Then there was 3

By the end we had 12 Brown Boobies as passengers. 

They became very adept at perching on the bow life lines. There they chattered, fussed each other, preened, dozed, did their business just like it was their regular place to hang out.

They were not afraid or deterred by the jib. At one stage one Boobie had a few feathers caught by the jib. He squawked, we loosened the jib and his feathers were released. He just turned and got comfortable on the lifeline, like nothing had happened. 

All the way, for 3 days and 2 nights these Brown Boobies travelled with us.

Until, as we turned into Punta Mita they flew off one by one not to return, they had reached their destination, and so had we…. 

Punta Mita

Punta Mita was our recovery anchorage for the day after the crossing. Basically we got everything back in order. And then when we went to lift the anchor…..big problem! Somehow the chain had wrapped around the unit/motor and crushed it so it was cracked and not in safe condition. 

This was a 1st class mess up. We, rather John, did what he could to get the windless able to pull the anchor. We carefully brought it up and moved down to La Cruz to make arrangements to enter the marina.

La Cruz marina

is where we moved to. This marina is right at the entrance to La Cruz town/village. It is actually very convenient, has nice facilities and even yoga twice a week.

We were assigned a really great dock, B dock. There is less dust and a good breeze. Yes, dust, La Cruz is a typical Mexican town with lots of dust. However it is also a town with a heck of a lot of character.

We arrived in time for the last Sunday Market of the season. We once again enjoyed walking along looking at all the booths and sat to listen to the music…which was excellent!

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Nayarit:

The little town where our marina was located was about to celebrate, “Day of the Cross” the, “Fiestas Patronales de La Cruz,” Patron Saint Festivities.  A massive 10-day community festival that culminates on the Day of the Holy Cross (Día de la Santa Cruz) each year on May 3rd.

The celebrations are a perfect blend of deep, spiritual, tradition with vibrant Mexican fiesta culture. The highlights are: 

Every morning at 5:00am there are huge booms from what sounds like a cannon. Apparently this is to awaken those living in the nearby mountains – for them to attend church. Yes, we heard those booms.

The parade of the local fishermen’s boats these boats set out very early in the morning with signature  flags of three colors and displaying the Santa Cruz (Holy Cross.)

Later in the day they go back to church to attend mass.

Daily Processions: Each morning and early evening, local parades and processions travel to the town’s church to honor the town’s patron saint, who blesses the local fishing community.

Plaza Festivities: Every night, the town plaza comes alive with more booms!! There are vast arrays of food, drinks, and live music, carnival rides and game booths too. 

For us the main day was May 3rd, the Sunday, when the music became so incredibly loud we went along to see the happenings. We found: 

Charro: Mexican horses displayed, this was along one of the lanes. I must say the horses and their riders were very ornately decorated and obviously very proud of their horses. 

The music was local Mexican music that was being amplified beyond imagine…so loud it hurt one’s ears. However the locals were sat listening and looked very happy. The music continued until the following morning.

Booths of foods and drinks were in the square. Everyone was dressed in decorative Mexican clothing. Children and adults having fun……

Fireworks did explode most nights but on the May 3rd evening it was an especially massive display. Then the fiesta could be heard till the wee hours of the morning.

And why is it the day of the cross?

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle literally means the Cross of Huanacaxtle tree….also known as Parota tree. The cross marks the entrance to the town.

The Legend of the Tree: According to local tradition, the area became a central gathering place after an indigenous woman was buried beneath a massive Huanacaxtle tree. To honor her, a large cross was carved into the trunk. People began saying, “We will meet at the Huanacaxtle cross,” which eventually became the town’s name.

Another local tale suggests lightning once struck a Huanacaxtle tree, naturally charring a cross shape into it. Regardless of which legend is told, the cross became the defining landmark.

When we visited the tree I was amused to find nearly a dozen iguanas living in its boughs.

We have been quite hard at work while in the marina. The main is down and in to be restitched, while I restitch the main sail cover. The boat covers are restitched, John has done all number of engine renovations, clean ups, changes. On and on, and still loads to do. 

Our daily walks are delightful, we walk the malecon, visit the kitties,

the bakery, the fish market,

the fruit market, all of it entertaining and just enjoying the Mexican atmosphere.

“Change is the essence of life.” – Anatole France

Travel is more than the seeing of the sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living. Miriam Beard 

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