Isla Carmen Bahía Salina

Isla Carmen PHOTOS: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5yJSS9mUgRXzafQB8

And the rest PHOTOS:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qj

Was our next anchorage. Yes, another salt mining area on an island. This area was very historically significant for salt production, starting in the early 18th century (1717) and continuing until the 1980s. So, this salt mine, John assured me was special. 

We had read that we could explore abandoned structures, including workshops, a chapel, a cemetery, and rusted machinery from the salt industry, but first we had to check in with the caretaker.

Once ashore we found the caretaker behind the first set of buildings. He was friendly and happy for us to go exploring.

There was a very large salt field, stretching way off to the base of the mountains.

We walked around the salt ponds, at all the differing pools of colour and by the salt creations made by the dried salt.

The hot, dry climate around the Sea of Cortez makes this quite an efficient process. 

Salt production at Bahía Salinas on Isla del Carmen has a long history: In 1717 Juan María Salvatierra, who also founded the town of Loreto, got permission from the King of Spain to start a salt extraction operation at Bahía Salinas.

The King of Spain was of course also the King of New Spain, comprising all the Spanish colonies in the Americas. This salt is pure enough to not need any purification before its consumption.

The salt production grew, and in 1867 the “mine” had produced a total of 35,000 tons of salt.

In the 1880’s, machinery was introduced, and rail tracks were built as well as a dock for shipping the salt out. In 1890 the salt prices fell and Bahía Salinas became less profitable.

The mine changed hands several times over the next many years until finally in 1984 the salt production ended.

We explored the old abandoned buildings and machinery which John found fascinating.

This area is now called a ghost town, mainly in reference to the lack of people. I enjoyed looking at all the unusual “decorations/additions” that were placed around the building. 

 The caretaker had told us they were expecting guests the following day. The area and mine is privately owned and the old salt works are now used as a hunting lodge, where hunters can book a stay to hunt big horned, wild sheep that live on the island.

For me the irony is that the Big horned sheep were put there as a breeding program due to them being endangered. But, now they are hunted. Hunted apparently for huge amounts of money, by the wealthy no doubt.

 The lodgings of the hunters and the staff are buildings from the time of the salt extraction that have been restored. They are expanding and we saw several ruins that were in the process of being restored.

It was a very pleasant morning wandering around the old salt works which was indeed different to the others.

Punta Perico

Was just an over night anchorage for us. The particular bay we were in was very rocky and offered nowhere for us to anchor the dinghy.

We promised to return to the area, but to anchor in the South Bay instead. The shoreline cliffs were attractive and we were well protected from the north winds.

Dolphin video:   IMG_2881   

Isla Coronado

This was our next destination. It is stunning, uninhabited volcanic island located just off the coast of Loreto.

It’s nickname is, “Jewel of Loreto,” and a very popular destination for the Loretto locals and tourists. It is famous for its white-sand beaches, crystal-blue waters, sea lion colonies, and abundant marine life.

 So, yes, during the morning and early afternoon there were many pangas arriving and off loading folks, but we still enjoyed our time in this bay.

We landed the dinghy on the beach and headed down the trail towards the volcano hike. It was a ways across the island we followed a windy well laid path. Until we came to the rocky slopes of the ridge line.

I was game to try to climb the rocks, but John was reluctant for me to climb up a rocky slopes and down with the chance I might compromise my knee by slipping…then we would be really stuck.

Therefore we headed back to the pathway that headed across the isle. Again a very nicely laid windy, pathway by the parks folks we followed to the other side.

There we looked out from the cliff across a beach to the ocean beyond.

We continued along this pathway for quite a ways until we realized it only headed to the tip of the island. Back we headed to Aeeshah. A nice walk through the shrubbery. 

Around about this time I started to feel unwell. Little did I know what was to come.

San Juanito bay

Bahía San Juanico, aka Scorpion Bay, is a large, remote, lovely anchorage. We only stopped for one day and only went for a dinghy ride around the area.

It comprises of many small bays separated by rock formations, many of which are impressive. The bays are also popular with campers as we saw many parked ashore. We promised to return and spend time exploring the area.

Punta Santa Domingo

This bay is at the entrance to Bahía Conception and where we stopped for the night.

As per normal another huge bay and very beautiful.

We did go ashore in the dinghy, and I did attempt a walk. However, I was feeling very ill and didn’t really enjoy myself.

John walked down the rocky beach, then we returned to Aeeshah.

Playa Santispac

A really lovely bay where we anchored under the shelter of some high land to be in the lee from the winds.

When we arrived I was finding it difficult to breathe, my throat was incredibly sore, my head and chest was full of muck…..things were not good. I had to see a doctor. 

Luckily there was the town of Mulege about 15 miles away. Then with the help of information I got off of the Noforeignland app, we secured a taxi driver, Salvador. 

We went ashore and met Salvador in the campground car park. He drove us into Mulege to the hospital/clinic. Salvador came inside with me, took me to the receptionist, went with me to see the nurses, the doctor and did an amazing job of translating for me. He made sure that I understood everything and really took care of me.

 I had viral infection of some type, aka flu, Covid or some such.

The real surprise came when we went to pay, all they needed was a donation. Yep, medical is free, John left a good donation. 

Next we were off to the pharmacy to get my meds. Again Salvador came in with me, he made sure I got the exact meds necessary from the pharmacist. The meds were for 5-6 days and were for my chest and sinus relief, plus paracetamol. Salvador made sure the instructions were clear for me by writing them out clearly in English. Again he was wonderful. I told him he was my hero!

We next drove to the bank and he would have taken us to the shop too, but I really needed to get back and rest. Salvador was absolutely wonderful! He was so very kind and understanding, AND he didn’t even know me.

Over the next few days I basically just took up space and coughed, slept, tried to breathe trying to get better.

Eventually after the first few days on the meds I did feel much better. John meanwhile went paddle boarding, went ashore for walks, did chores and all the meals. 

“A single act of kindness throws out roots in all directions, and the roots spring up and make new trees.” — Amelia Earhart

“Unexpected kindness is the most powerful, least costly, and most underrated agent of human change.” — Unknown