Across the Andes to Chimborazo

 

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Across the Andes

The day started off as every day did with a great breakfast and Milton arriving at 8:00 to take us to: Chimborazo.

The drive there wove through the mountains, towns and farmland of the region. All along the way Milton had information for us. One of the towns was renowned for its denim clothing that it manufactured, therefore their Main Street had stores displaying denim clothes.

In another area there were many Guinea pig farms and therefore Guinea pigs being cooked and offered for sale on the roadside. 

The farming in one region consisted of different cactus which was used to make an Ecuadorian alcohol. Yet another plant was used for the fibrous strings that came from the “leaves” which the locals used to weave into bags and hats. 

On the other side of the mountain there were the farms with orchards of the blackberries and blueberries. Farms with orchards of apple trees, plum and pear trees were found yet further along on the other side of the mountains. 

We had to stop in Riobamba, named after the Rio Mamba river to pick up our guide for the Chimborazo walk. His name was Miguel and he turned out to be a very quiet young man. 

Chimborazo

It was a perfect day to visit Chimborazo, there was hardly a cloud in the sky. As we approached we were both stunned by the beauty of the area and of the Chimborazo volcano.

Chimborazo, rising to 20,702 feet (6,310 meters), is the highest peak in Ecuador. It is an inactive volcano with many craters, and it is heavily glaciated. However these glaciers are rapidly shrinking due to global warming. 

Scientists do agree that the peak of Chimborazo volcano is the furthest point from the center of the earth’s core, and the closest point on earth to the sun.

Many attempts were made to climb Chimborazo in the 18th and 19th centuries; the first to reach the summit was the British mountaineer Edward Whymper.  He climbed the peak twice in 1880. The geographer and traveler Alexander von Humboldt reached 19,286 feet (5,878 meters) in 1802. The climb up Chimborazo has also claimed a number of climbers lives mainly due to avalanches.

Up, and up we drove, around bends over bumps on the ever changing rough terrain of the roadway, passing Lamas, sheep and Alpacas. It was quite incredible how high we were…..

 We were at the 1st refuge when Milton parked. Above us was the monument to Chimborazo and the climbers who had gone before. Above that was the 2nd refuge where base camp was found. Unlike Cotopaxi the weather here that day was very cool but not uncomfortable, the sky clear. 

We were higher than at Cotopaxi, but I felt close to normal. John and I were the highest we had ever been before at over 16,000 feet. John wanted to climb to the 2nd refuge, I was happy with climbing to the monument.

Up, and up the path I went, around a few bends, over rocks and between boulders. John and the guide Miguel were already there.

Milton was at the 1st refuge. We looked at the gravestones, most of which remembered climbers lost to Chimborazo avalanches. 

Again the view was awesome, so clear and crisp was the air, the scenery incredible. 

Off John and Miguel went up the path towards the second refuge, the red and black jackets disappearing around the bends.

John told me later that Miguel told him to shuffle his feet, not take steps, but do a slow shuffle forward. He said it was a very hard slog getting up there. It took them about an hour to shuffle up. When they reached the refuge took some photos and then returned to find Milton and I. 

 

Meanwhile, I spent some time watching them disappear around the bends in the path.  

First I had another look around the monument and the graveyard then I slowly descended to where I thought I would find Milton.

I eventually saw Milton on another hilltop where the campsite was located. Up I went finding the view from there to be stunning.

The trailhead for a walking path started there, plus I found a small stream where birds were enjoying the water. In other words I explored around the immediate area while John and Miguel walked to and from the 2nd refuge.

Once they returned we climbed into Milton’s van and started to head back to Riobamba. As we were setting off we spied cyclists setting off down the slopes.

Yes, down on bikes. Apparently it is quite popular to have bikes then up to the 1st refuge and to then bike down. From my perspective this looked to be dangerous. From John’s perspective it looked exciting. Our guide Miguel has ridden down many times. He admitted most folks fall off several times.

Further along I asked to stop to look at these plants with yellow flowers. They were quite tall and with furry leaves….apparently called Rabbit’s ears.

The drive back was just as scenic, we saw indigenous shepherds and their mountain homes, lamas, alpacas and sheep.

Milton took us to our accommodation, Hotel Hacienda Abraspungo,

which was a wonderful old farmstead and a 4 star hotel.

There we had a most enjoyable walk around the estate and that evening an incredible dinner.

“I love places that make you realize how tiny you and your problems are.”

“Travel makes you realize that no matter how much you know, there’s always more to learn.”

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