Photo Link——>>Tobago, family and back to Trinny

John finally arrived back at 5ish. He had waited 1&1/2 hours for a bus, which never arrived, so he had “caught” a ride in a maxi taxi to Scarbourgh at a cost of 13TT. He had then hitched a ride on private car hire for 4TT to Store Bay where he walked to the fuel depot behind the airport. There he waited 5 minutes and paid 15TT for refill on our propane bottle, which cost 10TT. Then he grabbed a sandwich at the airport and hiked carrying the propane bottle back to Store Bay where he flagged down another H car. This one was a legit hire car so it cost him 80TT. In Scarbourgh he waited for another bus or maxi taxi for about an hour, finally the fellow who had driven John down came along. He said he had been looking out for him, as he was probably the last driver heading back out to Charlotteville that day. So John finally returned after spending all day getting us a refill on our propane.

Charlotteville is just a fishing village, but it has the charm of the undeveloped Caribbean. The people are friendly and very helpful. Each day we spent time hiking and exploring. There is Fort Champbleton above the village and we took a stroll uphill for a visit. While it is a great view the fort was a couple of cannons with a shady area to sit. One day we set off to hike to Black Staff Hill, which is, located way above the bay. The way up was along the roadway that leads to Spreyside. It is a steep, steep road that switches back all the way up. About halfway we had a jeep stop along side us. The driver offered us a ride to the top, as it was in the direction of his property. When we told him we were happy to walk he advised that we still had a looonng hike ahead, which was all uphill and we should save out energy for descending later. So we all climbed aboard and rode the rest of the way to the top. At the top we found there was a wonderful 360 degree view. We could see into Man of War Bay and all around to London Bridge, over land across Tobago and the rain forest. The kids really were surprised when I pulled out lollipops that I’d saved from their Dad’s wedding. We enjoyed the top of the hill then down, down down we walked back to the village.

We set off one day from one of the bay’s beaches up a lane, which took us to the road, which leads to Hermitage. From there we walked back to the bay via a river. It was fun following and exploring the river. The bamboo was amazingly tall creating a tunnel effect for us to walk through.

Another day we walked from the village to Pirates Bay and then along a pathway through the rainforest and around the anchorage. We finally reached a cottage on the other side of the bay. The pathway was exceptionally lovely with the massive trees, vines and flowers along side. Parrots were causing a raucous above while other colorful birds flew by. John found that walk, “ just enchanting”.

 

We also snorkeled off of Boobie Island, unfortunately the water was not as clear as it had been previously with Laurie and Iain, the run off from the rivers made for murky water. That evening John and I produced sparklers that we had saved from Florida. The kids had a great time after they got over their fear of them. The kids were just happy to play in the surf, which we did most evenings off of

Pirates Bay.

Pirates Bay is one of Tobago’s top beaches due to its beauty and size. Many locals and tourists enjoy this beach throughout the day. After 3 days of trying we managed to rent a car and we drove via Scarbourgh into Store Bay, we stocked up on food and booze, topped up on digicel and restocked with fruit and veg. This excursion took all day; the kids couldn’t believe how long things take here. The drive in was via the rain forest road, which was spectacular. The greens from the vegetation, the beautiful flowers and the many birds made for an interesting drive. Our route back along the east coast was quicker as the road is much straighter, but just as scenic. On Sunday, August 3rd, we moved to Castara Bay to meet Gavin and Katie who were to stay in Castara Retreat on the hillside above the bay. It was an easy passage along the shoreline and we were anchored up, covers up and everything in place by 3ish when they were due to arrive. We 1st saw them on their porch as they arrived and were being shown around by Porridge the caretaker.
We then went and beached the dingy in the adjacent bay, as the surf was too high on the main beach. (There are not many dingy docks in Tobago) From there we hiked up the road, through the village and met them in their accommodation.                    

Castara Retreat is a lovely guest facility,

their area comprised of a kitchenette and living space, which was surrounded by a massive porch, all open to the view of the bay below. There were 2 bedrooms, which were shuttered and held mosquito netted beds. The whole set up was very spacious and charming. We spent a while catching up and then met up with them on the beach where we swam and they came out and visited Aeeshah. They never said what they though of our “home” but our steady roll in the bay seemed to cause some nausea for Katie and to us it was relatively calm.

The following day we spent on the boat having lunch and snorkeling in different areas of the bay. The snorkeling was good but somewhat murky. The coral and fish life in the bay is abundant.

Gavin and Katie said they were finding the contrast between the American/Bermuda culture and the Tobago culture quite a stark contrast. We had arranged to hire cars for 2 days so as to be able to tour Tobago.

 

The 1st adventure was driving to Charlotteville along the windy, steep, narrow, mountain road. The scenery is spectacular with fantastic overlooks all the way to Man Of War Bay. Once there we set off to show them Pirate’s Bay, the track to the house above the bay and the village too. Gavin said that they were finding the cultural differences challenging and the heat a real strain, but he found the scenery beautiful.

 

 

 

The next destination was Spreyside and Little Tobago.

We had a tasty lunch in Spreyside, of local fish or chicken with all the sides of Macaroni Pie, Rice, Beans and Salad plus drinks for less than US10 each. At the Blue Waters Resort we changed up ready for our trip to Little Tobago. We climbed aboard a small glass bottomed boat and were happy to be the only group for the afternoon tour.

 

The 1st stop was the Japanese Gardens – the reef off of Little
Tobago. There the guide named all the corals and fish, many of which we already knew, but some we then learned. The water here was amazingly clear, the coral spectacular and the fish were everywhere. Our next stop was

 

Little Tobago our guide led us on a hike around the
island while he explained that
the island was a bird sanctuary and had been bequeathed as such by its owner who had originally raised Birds of Paradise on the island. These birds were then lost in a hurricane in
1963 as they were blown out to sea. He showed us Trap Door 
Spiders by opening the trap doors, vibrating the twig outside so the spider would poke its head out to investigate. He explained about the codependency of the air

plants and many other interesting aspects of the plants on Little Tobago.

At an overhang we watched the Red Beaked Tropic Birds and the Brown Boobies soaring in the sky. There he showed us where

the Atlantic and Caribbean Sea currents meet. Overall it was an excellent tour.

We were then able to snorkel off the boat in the bay. The coral was beautiful, fish of all types swam in the crystal clear water everyone enjoyed the snorkel. We drove back via the rain forest after hunting for rotis in Roxbourgh. It was a great day out.

 

 

The following day we needed to go to a cash machine. Gavin and Katie wanted to visit a grocery store in Scarbourgh as well so off we set to visit Scarbourgh. Once arriving and sitting for 45 minutes in traffic the plan was aborted – we set off for the Store Bay Area, which John and I knew from previously. There we got the cash, visited a grocery store getting supplies and a picnic lunch.

We then drove past Scarbourgh to Fort Granby where we had a
delightful picnic lunch under the Bay Grape trees. Then it was off to

Argyle waterfall

on the east coast. At Argyle we donned our bathing suits and headed to the falls. The pathway was very muddy due to the recent rain, but that just added to the adventure.

At the 1st waterfall there was a large swim hole but we decided to climb the steep path up to the following levels. At the different levels we swam in the pools and stood under the cascading water. It was exceedingly refreshing in the water especially after the

climb up. The going down wasn’t as difficult as expected, but it was mucky, so we washed up in the last pool and headed back to the cars. There we changed and had either a local coconut or sour sop ice cream.

Again we drove through the rain forest on our return.This time we stopped at the main trail head to have a look around. While there a poor starving female dog appeared. I fed her left overs for the picnic and hotdogs from our supplies.
In the evening we went ashore for a dinner at a restaurant on the beach where they had drummers playing goatskin drums and a limbo competition.

We all had a grand time. The drummers were excellent; goodness knows how they can drum so loud, so fast for so long. The competition was fun, Katie won 6 beers. Then the local guys showed what they could do which was amazing, limbo of just an inch or so above the floor, just crazy! And the food was excellent too!

Thursday was the next day and we had decided to have a down day. This was just as well as it was a rainy day, perfect for reading and doing small necessary jobs and for catching rain for the laundry. In the afternoon Gavin and Katie, (plus Rhianna who had been staying with them), came out to the boat for a swim. We headed ashore for a dinner and bonfire at another beach bar. The dinner was again excellent, however the bonfire never happened, as it was too wet.

 

Friday we set off in Aeeshah for Englishman’s Bay at around 10 am. Englishman’s is a typical gorgeous Caribbean palm tree lined bay. Just as we were about to drop the anchor one of the men ashore signaled us away. We guessed the men were going to set the nets and so anchored well out of their way.

We headed ashore and strolled down the beach enjoying the scenery. Back at the dingy we swam while the fishermen started laying their nets. As they started to pull the nets John went to help along with some of the other men. When the nets were pulled we saw that it was a meager catch of Balloo aka sardines. The rest of the time there was spent swimming and snorkeling. It was a fun filled day, which we finished off with a steak barbeque on board Aeeshah.

 

The Saturday was Gavin and Katie’s last day. We hiked to

Castara Waterfall

through the rainforest behind the village. There some of us swam and all of us followed Baba, a local we had met, up the slope next to the waterfall and followed the river a ways up stream.

We saw tiny lobsters, crayfish and fish swimming in the river. If you stood still to long they would nibble at your feet. Then it was back to the village where we went to Gavin and Katie’s place for a

roti lunch that Porridge had arranged for us. Katie had been waiting her entire visit to taste the fabled roti. She had begun to believe we were imagining their existence. The afternoon was spent swimming and playing in the water off of the boat.

Overall a fun day, which was finished off by going to yet another local restaurant to have a barbeque dinner and listen to pan drums being played. The evening
was enjoyed by everyone after which we said goodbye to Gavin and Katie and we headed back to Aeeshah.

Off we went to Store Bay the next morning.

Once there we swam and went ashore for a dinner gyros which the kids rate as #1 food. The following morning saw us catching a ride into Scarbourgh to visit customs and immigration. We lucked out as my favorite Tobago immigration lady was on duty so it was easy getting out passage documents.

The passage was smooth but slow, the highlight being a visit by a large pod of dolphins. There were dozens of them swimming all around the boat for over half an hour, the kids were thrilled. Again we had to stop in La Vanche Bay for the night. This time because there was little wind and the current was against us so we wouldn’t make Chagaramus until after dark. In La Vanche we swam and enjoyed the isolation of the bay. However the next morning we regretted our decision, as the seas were way up and so the passage was incredibly rough. However the kids managed to sleep through a good part of it, they just don’t get seasick!

We anchored up at TTSA = Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association near Nancy and Dave. Since being at TTSA Ethan and Rhianna have enjoyed the pool on a daily basis. We have caught the bus with Nancy and Dave into “town” to one of the malls and stocked up
at the large grocery store, (enjoying AC).

On Friday 15^th, we went on a Jessie James day trip with Randy off Sinbad and Sarah his guest. Our destinations were Asa Wright Nature centre and then the Caroni Swamp.

The ride to Asa Wright was 1^st through the built up area near Port of Spain, thus built up. Martin our driver was very good to point out all the “points of interest” such as the prisons, (they are huge and numerous). Once we hit the tracks called roads to the mountains they narrowed considerably.

The scenery was spectacular, the slopes being sheer and covered in rainforest with waterfalls off the sides. Asa Wright is located at 1200 feet in the mountains of the Northern Ridge 7 miles from the closest town. It was the 1^st nature centers to be formed in the Caribbean and is for the protection and study of wildlife. Trinidad has an amazing number of and variety of birds, over 300 species of hummingbirds alone. Plus there are 29 species of bat, agouti, paca, nine banded armadillos, iguana, tengu lizards, ocelots, howler monkeys and other wild mammal species.

Once at Asa we set off on our guided hike. We saw a number of interesting birds, lots of insects such as cutter ants and massive anthills one of 13 years old, (they are known to live up to 20 years!). Right at the end of our hike the rain arrived. Back at the lodge we went to enjoy an amazing lunch, which was served buffet style. Everyone dug in, even Rhianna had seconds! We spent time after lunch enjoying the veranda where
sugar feeders hang for the various humming birds and where the view looks out over the mountainous rain forest.

The Caroni Swamp visit started after 4:00pm and I must say that as we arrived well before then the wait was driving me mad as the mosquitoes were numourous and were not put off by repellant. However the trip was #1, just excellent!

We headed out down the canals winding our way under low-lying Mangrove tree branches through the massive mangroves. (The mosquitoes had diminished due to the brackish water) We spied a snake curled in the branches above us, crabs on the banks, oysters clustered to the mangrove roots, herons, flocks of Snowy Egrets and the Scarlet Ibis flying above. We reached a large “lake” area where the highlight of the tour was watching the Scarlet Ibis flocks flying in to roost in the treetops.

I particularly loved the reflections of the sky with the mountains in the distance on the water and then the sunset’s reflection just topped it off. It reminded me of the song by Keane called: “Perfect Symmetry”

On our boat we had a large group of visiting Venezuelans that were also touring on one of Jessie’s
tours. Sooo, Jessie had brought along an evening snack for us all to enjoy.

CHOW ….It comprised of 2 large pineapples, which he skinned, cored and chopped into the large silver dish. He then added a good bit of salt, stirred, chopped plenty of garlic and cilantro, which were also added. The dish was passed around for the 1^st time for the young to enjoy. Next he added a bit of Scotch Bonnet, (hot pepper), the dish was passed around for all to enjoy. 3rdly he added more Scotch Bonnet plus seeds again the dish was passed. The 4^th time was the final time as all the rest of the pepper was added. Most of us ate up until the 3^rd round; a few including Ethan and John ate until the 4^th round. Then the dare was to drink the juice, which of course John just had to do
and 1 Venezuelan lady as well. It was great entertainment and extremely yummy. The dish is called Chow and can be made with unripe mango too.

Altogether an excellent day was had by us all. We all agree that it is extremely HOT here at anchor in Trinidad. In Tobago Gavin and Katie found it HOT, but that was like a Korma here it is like a Vindaloo everyday.

We rented a car to drive Rhianna and Ethan to the airport and so also had a few extra outings using a car, as it was just toooooo hot to walk about.

The first outing was to Edith falls, which is nearby. We hiked the couple of kilometers to
the falls through the rain forest, battling the mosquitoes and found Edith Falls. It is a high height that the water falls, but there was not much water falling. John and Ethan sat under the water, Rere and I just watched while continuing to battle the mosquitoes. The highlight of that outing was a swim in Macqueripe Bay to cool off and then hearing Howler monkeys in the nearby hills.

Another last treat was to go for Doubles for breakfast. These are another Trinny specialty dish. They are delicious and Ethan became completely addicted to them!! Especially with the hot sauce and this was at 7:00am!!

 

 

Rhianna loved the “sweet” stalls where you can buy for very few TT all sorts of fantastic sweets.

Our final outing was a drive to the north coast to

Maracus Bay.

This is a magnificent beach that is just huge and has surf rolling ashore with palm trees framing the beach. It is also an area famous for a Trinny national dish – Bake & Shark. So we managed to navigate the roads to find the outlooks over La Vanche, where we had overnighted previously. On we went fabulous Maracus Bay, along to the end of the North coast road, then back to Maracus for Bake & Shark. No the kids didn’t eat it but they did have a taste which they agreed with us Bake & Shark is very good!

 

 

 

The next morning we arose at 3:15am and managed to navigate Port of Spain and on to the airport where we dropped Ethan and Rhianna off to catch the AA flight home. We all agreed we had a fantastic time and look forward to next summer’s adventures.

Now we are awaiting Monday 25^th when we will be pulled onto the hard again. We are at TTSA

enjoying the anchorage and company of friends. We have had a few shopping expeditions. One into Port of Spain where we visited Swimsuit Debbie, ordered bathing suits, bought material and ate lots of delicious Trinny food for lunch. I am also awaiting the arrival of a new crewmember, who will no doubt keep John and I busy but very amused……

 

Perfect Symmetry by Keane

I shake through the wreckage for signs of life


Scrolling through the paragraphs


Clicking through the photographs

I wish I could make sense of what we do


Burning down the capitals


The wisest of the animals

Who are you? What are you living for?


Tooth for tooth, maybe we’ll go one more

This life is lived in perfect symmetry


What I do, that will be done to me

Read page after page of analysis


Looking for the final score


We’re no closer than we were before

Who are you? What are you fighting for?


Holy truth? Brother, I choose this mortal life

Lived in perfect symmetry


What I do, that will be done to me


As the needle slips into the run out groove


Love, maybe you’ll feel it too

And maybe you’ll find life is unkind and over so soon


There is no golden gate, there’s no heaven waiting for you……..

…………………….