PHOTO ALBUMS, click here: 1 Grenadines to St Vincent
2: St Vincent and back to Carnival in Grenada
3: August Underwater, Bat Cave
The sail to Bequia
was one of the best and at times we were travelling at a steady 8 knots. We arrived in record time and anchored
in Elizabeth Bay.
Bequia is always very beautiful with the beaches, clear clear water and the hills 
surrounding with the lovely cottages painted in bright colours. We spent 4 days enjoying Bequia and catching up with boat chores. One calm afternoon we dingied around to the Moon holes
and check them out. They are the strangest homes ever.
Nobody seems to live in them now but apparently they were habitated by folks that loved to see the moon light through the holes.
Moon hole derives its name from a massive arch formed in volcanic substrate through which the setting moon is sometimes visible. Founded by Thomas and Gladys Johnston in the 1960s, Moon hole is now a private nature preserve. In the late 1960s, the Johnstons retired from the advertising business in New York and founded the Moon hole community on the narrow western tip of the island. Tom and “Gladdie” began building a house beneath the arch with the aid of local masons from the nearby village of Paget Farm. Using whalebones, native hardwoods, and 
objects recovered from the sea, they built large open rooms with magnificent views of the sea. Without wells or electricity, they collected rainwater from the roofs and stored it in cisterns for bathing and washing. The master bath had a large tree that grew right up through a large hole in the roof. Large windows facing the prevailing trade winds had plexiglass panes that could be lowered into place. The bedrooms surrounded a central dining room, veranda and large bar made from a humpback whale’s jawbone. In the early years there was not even a road to Moonhole. People from Paget Farm walked in daily to bring in fresh 
fruit and freshly baked bread and to do any necessary cooking.
We also snorkeled and enjoyed the fabulous beaches in the anchorage.
Our next destination was St Vincent
itself. We arranged to pick up a mooring in Blue Lagoon,
one of the Barefoot charters moorings. (We had chartered through them 4
years ago) The sail to St Vincent was FAST up to 9 knots at times, we were flying. Ethan was thrilled with the speed and both Rhianna and Ethan enjoyed being on the bow. Blue Lagoon is a lovely area – very scenic – and sheltered by the reef from the swell.
Our main reason for being there was to hike the volcano – Soufriere.
At 1,234 m (4,049 ft), La Soufrière is the highest peak on Saint Vincent as well as the highest point in the island of 
St Vincent and the Grenadines. Soufrière is a strata volcano with a crater lake and is the island’s youngest and northernmost volcano. The last recorded eruption was in April 1979; due to advance warning there were no casualties. We arranged for a guide through Hazeco tours.
Our guide ‘s name was Irocky. He was late arriving but that was due to his 
having to wait for our lunch – chicken rotis – to cook. He arrived in a lovely mini van, which thrilled the kids as it had AC so his tardiness was forgiven. We drove to the bottom of the trail on the eastern side. Once there we promptly set off to climb up. The average time to hike up is 2 hours, which was our time. However, it was for me, a very 
tough 2-hour climb. A real cardio 2 hour work out. Irocky led the way, followed by Rhianna, then Ethan, and John and trailing behind – Jen. The kids just took to it like mountain goats, their pace was far greater than mine so every 15 mins or so I would find them waiting for Nana to catch up. John found carrying the backpack a burden as it was heavy and made him very hot.
The climb was through 4 different vegetation zones. 1st we had the rain forest,
which was so very beautiful, the greens of the lush plant life along with the 
flowers and the birds catering above in the tree tops. John particularly loved the huge bamboo. The next zone was a cloud forest.
Here again it was beautiful but misty from the clouds, 
this also made everything wet. My glasses fogged up so badly I had to go with out them. The area with low shrubs followed, here you could look out over the area when the clouds cleared.
It was then possible to see how high we had climbed, but we still had a good 
1000 odd feet to go. The trail along the way was either huge steps that had been cut out and held by bamboo or it was rocky with volcanic rocks and 
boulders. We crossed 2 lave flows, which of course were old and hard rock, but slick and steep. We crossed many dry river beds which when it does rain hard are not passable. The last zone was the area of lichen and small plants
that have to survive in harsh conditions. At last we were at the top and we were 
lucky enough that the clouds did part for us to see into the crater 1000 feet below, plus across to the 
western shore way below. It was cold up there – freezing in our sweaty clothes. I changed into my dry shirt and put a windbreaker on Rhianna as she was literally shaking from the cold wind. Ethan was just too fascinated with the crater and had to be reminded that there was little chance of survival or rescue if he fell in. John really wants to return to climb the other slope and then hike around the entire crater. Maybe next year? Irocky dished out our food, which we quickly ate. He had wonderful 
fruit juice and rotis for us plus different fruits. We ate looked around again and set off for the bottom an hour and a half away. I again took my time so as to enjoy the scenery, take photos and listen to the birdcalls. It was not such a difficult journey down, but you had to be more careful as it would have been easy to slip and fall 1000 feet or so. 
Irocky drove us back and we dove into the water to relax from the arduous climb. A very successful day.
We also visited an island close by where there was Fort Duvernette.
It is a tall, 
rocky pinnacle and home to the ruins of the elevated canon battery. Fort Duvernette is a 195-foot high volcanic plug comprised of hard columnar basalt. It is 
also known locally as ‘Rock Fort’. One can find two batteries with cannons, which were constructed during the 1700s colonial era of St. Vincent and the Grenadines, for the defense of the then important town of Calliaqua. The site is also rich with flora and fauna. Fort Duvernette is accessible only by boat. There are 255 steps and a handrail leading to the peak providing an outstanding view of the surrounding areas. We enjoyed the
climb to the top and I loved watching the Frigate Birds 
soaring by.
On our last day in St Vincent we sailed to Petit Byahaut where we anchored Aeeshah in the lovely bay. We then set off in the dingy to snorkel Bat Cave.
Rhianna adored snorkeling through Bat Cave. I one end and out the other she went 5 times. It really is a thrilling 
experience with the bats above you flying about while 
below a deep chasm opens up.
Off to Bequia we sailed following our snorkel. We knew some breezy days were due and we needed to prepare for a return to Tobago Cays.
In Bequia we went via open taxi to the non-profit Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary,
founded and looked after by Brother (Orton) King. It is amazing that one man’s idea should have such a 
great impact in so many ways. Brother King, a retired fisherman, decided to give back something to the world, and in doing so he kept himself close to the sea and the creatures that were much of his life. Brother King knew turtles were endangered (all species of sea turtle in the Caribbean are on the lists of endangered species). He also knew that the survival rate for baby turtles is exceedingly low (it has often been estimated that only about 5% of 
eggs reach maturity as turtles). There we were able to see turtles as young as 3 days old. There were also turtles that have been rescued after injury by shark attack or struck by boats. They are nursed back to health and then released if able to survive. All of the turtles except 1 were Hawksbill Turtles and the 1 being a Green Turtle. We all held a turtle and enjoyed learning about them.
A hike to Fort Hamilton
was a pleasant walk for us all. It was amazing to see the bay from the other side, as it looks completely 
different. Each day we swam from the beaches. The kids had a great time just playing in the water. They harassed poor John but I think he enjoyed being climbed on and beaten up.
We knew there were a few calmer days so we sailed back to
Tobago Cays.
Tobago Cays consists of five uninhabited cays, heavenly 
lagoons full of green turtles, coral reefs, colourful fishes and crystal clear waters. An idyllic yachting anchorage, a dream for scuba divers, a paradise for beachcombers, and a film location for Pirates of the Caribbean, the Tobago Cays and the Tobago Cays Marine Park is one of the world’s most awe inspiring island destinations. Our 
intension was to spend time at Petit Tabac. Petit Tabac is outside the main reef – Horseshoe reef it was where the desert island scene from the 1st Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed. It is only possible to reach 
when the weather is good. On our first morning we decided to head out of the reef and over to
Petit Tabac.
We were very lucky as nobody else had headed out and we had the island 
completely to ourselves. We walked around the whole island and then Papa snorkeled with the kids in the lagoon. I decided not to as we had spotted several 
reef sharks – Black Tip reef sharks – after my encounter in the Bahamas I am cautious. It was an excellent morning. As we left other boats arrived so we had had the best of Tabac.
The following day we headed off to
Petit Martinique via World’s End Reef.
This is the last bit of reef between the islands and Africa. The water is beautiful, crystal clear, turquoise. There we snorkeled and enjoyed a swim in the middle 
of nowhere with nobody around.
On arriving at Petit Martinique we headed for the 1 main grocery store and were disappointed to find it shut due to a funeral. Well we just had to make do with what we could find in the only other grocery store – John being delighted 
to find Corona and at a great price 55EC per case – $22. We motored over to Petit St Vincent for the night where we swam and had a quiet evening.
The next morning we revisited the grocery store in Petit Martinique and then 
sped over to
Mopion,
which is a deserted beach/island in the middle of the deep blue sea. Again we were really lucky to have this island completely to ourselves for a few hours. The 
kids had a blast swimming in the shallows and jumping off the bar into the deeper water.
From Petit St Vincent we motored sailed to Chatham Bay Union Island.
This bay must be 1 of the best in the Grenadines. It is huge and offers a great anchorage. There we walked the entire beach and swam in the shallows. After which we had a few drinks at 
Bollhead’s Bar. We met another couple while there and chatted. They were off “Aggie Cat” which he owns and leases out to Barefoot. Upon returning to Aeeshah 
John off of Aggie Cat brought us over a terrific steak for dinner. He had it flown out from Texas. That night we had an excellent piece of steak each – Thank you John – the 1st since leaving Bermuda! We had planned to stay in Chatham Bay for a day or so but the following morning the weather was coming into the bay and it wasn’t ideal so we left for Clifton to check out of St Vincent and the Grenadines.
After checking out our destination was Hillsborough in Carriacou where we 
checked back into Grenada. There we planned to spend a day but again the following morning the weather was too windy to stay so off we set for Grenada – St George anchorage. The passage was a wild one as we had several squalls to deal with plus some huge following seas in some areas. We found the St George anchorage full of cruisers as there were only a few days until Carnival, but we anchored in a good spot.
The Grenadians started getting warmed up for Spice mas on the Sunday. The 
music started at around 2pm and continued through the night. It was loud enough that we could plainly hear it and the night was a restless one. I had mentioned to Rhianna about how the first celebration was starting at 5am, well she had set her alarm and made sure we were up at 4:30am. So off we set, (all but Ethan who wanted his sleep), in the dark to the inner harbour of St George not knowing what to expect, we could hear the music thundering out and 
wondered what state everyone would be in after 12 or more hours of mas, (mas in Grenada is the word for party).
Grenadian Carnival historically provided the means for common folk, and even slaves, to openly mock the forces of authority. The tradition continues today in the jouvert celebrations held in the early hours of Carnival Monday.
It was a chaotic scene that met us. Hundreds of people were there for the jouvert celebrations and were covering themselves in old engine oil, chocolate and paints the colours of Grenada. The music was blaring from many different sources, the beer and rum was flowing freely and most people were having a crazy, wild mass. After about 45 minutes the procession started. There were heavy trucks with dozens of speakers and huge sound systems with DJs chanting. The crowd were adorned in oil, chocolate, yellow, purple and red paints many with chains draped over them and wearing scary masks or makeup. They were dancing provocatively, singing and having a great time. The procession would cover several miles from Port Louis all the way into the 
Carnage, St George. We stayed for well over an hour, 
Rhianna was stunned, speechless and I think quite shocked. There were many 
other children there watching or taking part as if this was completely normal. A few times men wanted to drag me into the crowd to dance along with the procession, I politely declined, we did get paint applied to us and so did not feel too out of place. When we returned to the boat we had breakfast and then took Ethan into the harbour so he could have a look. Ethan was astounded by what he saw and decided that Grenadians take partying to a whole new level.
The premier cultural event, ‘Spice Mas’ is Grenadian expression in all its glory, 
taking place during the second Monday and Tuesday in August. Brimming with pageantry and expression which is linked to the Grenadians African, French, British and Caribbean heritage. Calypsonians, steel pan orchestras, beauty contestants, ‘fancy mas’ bands and others perform and parade to compete for Carnival honours. Grenadians gather to watch, participate and enjoy. Many take on disguises in the costumes of ‘Shortknee’ and ‘Jab Jab’ players. 
The Shortknee tradition combines pieces of distant Grenadian history expressed through masks, dance, chants and colourful costumes. Armored with tiny mirrors to reflect enemies and ankle bells to make music, masqueraders in knee-length pants carry talc powder as they stomp through towns and villages. The powder is a symbol of appreciation and sprinkled on those who make cash donations.
Jab Jab revelers paint their bodies black, put red helmets with make-believe horns on their heads, and march in energetic groups. Originating with African and European rituals, Jab Jab has evolved as an integral part of contemporary Spice Mas, shedding long ago customs of frightening Carnival patrons and establishing a unique rhythmic chant to Carnival.
Over the 2 days we attended the afternoon carnivals. They were very colourful and again extremely loud. 
The volume of the music would literally make you feel deaf afterwards. The costumes were exceptionally beautiful and the dancing was extreme. The females can move their hips better than Beyonce and that is no exaggeration. However you had to be very patient as they started hours late, took ages to pass and it was hot, hot hot!
At this stage the kids had just a week left of their time with us. So we moved to Prickly Bay where they 
had never been for a change of scenery. On Saturday we did our 2nd
Hash.
This one was at the northern end of Grenada. Patrick was again was our driver for a drive that took over an 
hour. The Hash was a lovely one as it left from a beach, covered 2 more 
beaches, some of the highland and through some villages. We all really enjoyed it. We saw old friends, Lynn and Eric with their dogs Chewy and Scrumpie. 
Unfortunately Scrumpie had been savaged by 2 rottweilers and had terrible sores. So Eric stayed behind with him while Chewy and Lyn did the walk. We were also in the company of John from Addie Cat and the couple from Out of Africa, another John and his wife. Nearing the end John and Ethan decided to finish at a run, off they went, but Ethan faultered and stopped
after about 500yards. So Rhianna yells “ Hey you lazy bugger! Hey you lazy 
bugger!!” I say “Rhianna where did you hear that !!?” and she promptly answered, “from Papa!!” I told her never repeat anything you hear from Papa.
The following day John was in agony. His hip was just killing him and he couldn’t understand why. After a few days of suffering he finally took himself off to 
the Dr’s. He had pulled a ligament and was given anti inflammatory, which fantastically relieved the pain. How ever not in time for him to enjoy the final trip with the kids.
We went to Scott, Nicole, Sam and Cally’s villa that they were renting for the hurricane season. They had left Dulcinea in Grenada Marine to be overhauled and were enjoying life on land. They gave us a wonderful lunch and the kids had a great time playing in the pool.
For their last outing I caught the bus with them to
Carmel Falls.
Getting the local bus is an adventure in itself as they are mini vans that pack as many people in as possible and then drive as if the devil were chasing them. Arriving at the falls we were 
asked if we wanted a guide. So Kevin a local guided us through the tree and I was so happy that we had him along as the ground was wet from the recent rain and the steep slopes were very slick. I had to walk bare foot and hang on to Kevin and even then we went down in the mud. The kids too needed quite a bit of help getting up and down the muddy slopes and luckily there were 2 other 
young boys who had followed along too and were also very helpful especially with Rhianna. (It was so sweet seeing the one holding her her across the rocks) The falls were beautiful. It’s 85 feet, the tallest in Grenada and it flows along and 
down to another area where you can slide in and swim in the huge pools. The kids stood under the huge waterfall, slid down all the slopes, sat under the small fall, jumped in and had a great time. When we left Kevin, helped us back, washed our shoes and generally took great care of us. The locals are such lovely people!
The following day Ethan and Rhianna caught the early morning flight to Miami and were home in Bermuda by that night. The boat was very quiet with out them. We set to clean up and ready the boat to be pulled in a few days. We went around to St David’s Bay and on the 26th Aeeshah was hauled to have a makeover. 
“My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some compassion, some humor, and some style” Dr. Maya Angelou
“Every morning when we wake up, we have 24 brand-new hours to live. What a precious gift!” Thich Nhat Hanh
