PHOTO LINK: https://photos.app.goo.gl/VL222ZfVXwdncPcY7

 

After entering the La Paz anchorage, we had just 6 days to prepare for Gavin, Katie and the girls who were visiting. I needed to investigate different excursions for the family to take. Plus we desperately needed a new dinghy so we went dinghy hunting. And we were awaiting a dock at Marina Cortez.

On our first day we were successful with our dinghy hunting and tour company. We walked to find the both of them and deals were made with both.

We quickly completed much of what we needed to do and then….just before they arrived we entered the Marina Cortez

 

 

We were very happy to welcome Katie, Gavin, Lily and Eve as they arrived at the Vista Coral condos and Marina Cortez.

As they were early we all walked out to Aeeshah for a look see and meet Chico. It was great to catch up. The girls loved Chico and he really enjoyed the attention. He felt over joyed to meet more fans.

 We went up with them to their Airbnb and found it to be a lovely condo Right on the ground floor. It was a level above the marina with a very nice view. Right outside their porch was the pool for the girls to enjoy.

The place was really nicely laid out with everything they needed. Plus they could see Aeeshah from the balcony.

Day 1, Monday: 

For their first day I suggested we all have a look around La Paz. John and I hadn’t really explored much of the city. We started walking along the Malecon, the long, long waterfront of La Paz.

The La Paz Malecón

is a 5 kilometer ocean front broardwalk or promenade. It serves as a, safe, pedestrian-friendly walking and biking path. It is lined with restaurants, and shops, on one side.

The other side of the Malecon and has sculptures plus a view of the beaches, the anchorage and harbour.

We walked along enjoying the sights while chatting. The playground area was a hit with Lily and Eve.

While I really enjoyed seeing the statues made from weapons. 

After crossing over the road, we happened to be in front of a typical Mexican ice cream shop. I suggested we get an ice cream, the girls were very happy with this suggestion.

The ice creams were wonderful! Made from different fruits they could even be said to be good for you. We all enjoyed sitting in the shade eating our cones, popsicles and small ice cream tubs.

Katie wanted to visit the cathedral, off we set towards the city Centro to where the cathedral was located. Along the way I admired the murals. I simply love the numerous Mexican murals. 

At the cathedral, Catedral de Nuestra Señora

we all looked inside at the historic displays. Named, Catedral de Nuestra Señora aka Our Lady of Peace it was Built in 1720. This church has both historical and architectural importance for the city. It is located on the site of the mission founded by the Jesuits in the 18th century. 

All of us had a good look around the cathedral, enjoying the historic relics and the quiet atmosphere.

Next stop was:

The centro market, Mercado Municipal General Nicolás Bravo

(often called “Mercado Bravo”), which is located in the city center (El Centro). 

I found it to be much smaller than many central city markets we have visited elsewhere. However, markets are great for an authentic local experience, fresh fruits, food, butchers, merchant of all types and traditional meals. All of which we experienced first hand, for example,

Lily and Eve both did not like the smells from the fresh fish stalls. I think it was a bit rough for them. Meanwhile while taking a look around, I purchased some wonderful mangos and tangerines. 

Gavin and Katie wanted to experience real Mexican market food so we sat at a food stall for lunch. I think they ordered every item offered just to experience them.

The food was a real hit with everyone. There was a choice of:

. Empanadas: A highly recommended staple in the market.

. Gorditas: Known for featuring various stews (guisos). 

– Sopes de Machaca: Sopes topped with regional shredded dried beef.

. Tacos: Specifically fish tacos (tacos de pescado capeado).

. Burritos: Various fillings.

. Menudo: A traditional soup, sometimes served with corn grains. 

I had a simple empanada and was tempted by the beans. 

Meanwhile behind us I noticed the fresh fruit juice stand.

Loving the fresh juices one can get I chose to have a mix of veg and fruit. It was delicious. A few of the juices offered were:

La Verde: A popular green mix including pineapple juice, nopal cactus, and parsley.

El Vampiro (The Vampire): A nutritious blend commonly made with beets and orange juice.

Carrot Juice (Jugo de Zanahoria): Frequently available, often mixed with orange or apple.

Lily chose a mango milkshake and Eve a strawberry shake.

Back towards the marina we strolled.

 

The destination for the 2nd day, Tuesday:  Isla Espiritu Santo, Holy Spirit Island. 

We were going with the tour group that I had previously researched:  https://alonsotours.com/ 

Our tour was a private one with a captain and a guide who was a marine biologist from Reunion Island, his name was Flo. The boat was your basic tour boat with a small, “white house” aka the head.

On our way out of the harbour we passed a large, white, rocky, island next to a fish farm. John and I had previously been curious about the area as the island looked barron and forlorn. 

Flo explained that the bare, rocky, white Isla was covered in bird droppings/guano. The isle was protected as it was very important to the local ecology/environment. The bird guano feeds the organisms in the sea that it washes into, which in turn feed the micro organisms and sealife – (is a short version of what he said).

We passed by quite close and could spy, Blue Footed Boobies, and numerous other birds. The island while looking dead was actually full of life.  

 Gavin asked about Bahía Balandra. He had read about it and was curious. Our captain Jose accommodated Gavin’s curiosity by doing a detour to show us the bay, which is on the mainland.

It is a famous, magnificent bay. It is a protected natural area known as one of the country’s most beautiful, unspoiled beaches. We saw the famous mushroom rock, Flo told us that a few years back a visitor climbed on it and broke the top off with his weight.

The rock was repaired and is not to be touched. Everyone was very impressed by the bay and hoped to revisit it.

Off again, we headed to another enormous bay Bahia san Gabriel, on the shores of Espiritu Santo. Here we visited a bird sanctuary which was by a mangrove lagoon. Another protected area, only listed tour boats can visit, but not to anchor, just entering to see the bay. 

Flo told us about the importance of the bird sanctuary and also the mangroves to the health and survival of the sea-life. There was a colony of the Magnificent Frigate birds that were nesting. We could see the adults and the babies. 

In the next bay we went turtle searching. By following the deeper water towards the shore we were able to look out at the turtles that were resting on the surface.

There were numerous turtles of many sizes. The girls were thrilled to see them.

The  Los Islotes, (often called “La Lobera” or “The Rookery”), are at the northern end of Espiritu Santo and Partida. They are home to a permanent colony of over 500 California sea lions and seals.

Here visitors can snorkel with them when with an approved tour group, as the area is a national park and totally protected.

We arrived excited, not really knowing what to expect, just looking forward to the adventure. There were a large number of seals and sea lions sunning on the rocks, plus some laying on the surface of the water with their fins sticking out.

Flo told us this is how they sun bath in the water, regulating their body temperature with a fin out. 

It took a few minutes to get ready with our masks snorkels and fins, (we had to wear life jackets as we hadn’t brought our wet suits). Then over the side we went. 

Instructions were to stick with Flo, listen to Flo, and not to approach the seals and sea lions, just observe. The boat operators do not anchor, but hang off close by. 

Snorkeling with a life jacket was challenging, but do-able, the water wasn’t as clear in some areas as others due to it being nutrient rich plus the differing thermal layers. 

We were able to see the seals that were floating near us. Plus see the others on the nearby rocks. It was quite thrilling, but also very chilly. 

We followed along the Isla approaching a tunnel. Here the current increased and we were told to glide through the passage not touching the sides which were covered in brightly coloured sea-life.

 Back out the other side Jose and the boat were awaiting us. The girls were frozen but happy. We all bundled up in towels while off we headed to our next destination.

A lovely beach in Ensenada del Candelero for lunch was our next stop. 

We climbed off the boat and strolled the beach while the guys set up our lunch. The lunch was delicious! There was the best ever fish ceviche, plus tostitos and nachos, sandwich making foods, fresh fruit, cookies, and drinks just everything we would want. 

Everyone the girls included feasted on the ceviche with tostitos. It was a best ever lunch, but then again we were all starving from the cold water activity. 

I was also impressed as everything was reusable, there were no plastics or throw away items except for the aluminum cans. Lunch finished we all explored differing areas of the beach.

The girls looking for sea-life in the shallows and shells on the beach. Flo joined them for a while showing them and telling them about baby sea urchins in the shallows. 

Our guide Flo suggested going to a nearby beach for a snorkel to see the reef.

The snorkel was in my mind going to be disappointing from what I had seen in the past snorkels in the Pacific. Well I was really surprised! And this time we didn’t have to wear the life jackets. The area was covered in coral, not the differing types like in Bermuda, but a tall delicate tree like corals. 

There were fish galore some were brightly colored, others like the needle fish of differing shapes. All swimming through the corals and rocks. 

Flo pointed out a poisonous starfish, some large sea urchins and an eel which was hunting its prey.

Plus other fish of interest like trumpet fish. He also told about what fed on what and how they were all reliant on each other.

 

It was a wonderful day out with our excellent marine biologist guide and organized driver, Flo and Jose.

That evening we all had dinner at the restaurant at the marina. A lovely meal and good conversation finished off the day.

Wednesday, day 3

 Gavin, Katie and the girls went off to visit a museum, which they said was excellent. The whale display showed exactly the story that Flo had told about the whale which tried to catch a seal at the seal colony and ended up stuck in the rocks. They even got to see the skeleton.

They visited other parts of the city and later in the afternoon John visited them for a swim with the girls in the pool.

 Meanwhile we got our laundry in and our shopping/restocking more or less completed.

And we finished the say off with a barbecue at the Airbnb with the family. Gavin cooked an excellent steak!

Day 4, Thursday, Aeeshah for the day.

This was a day out to the famous Ballandra Bay aboard Aeeshah. I admit I was reluctant as I thought they would be bored silly as it takes over an hour just to get down the channel. However the day was a great success. 

Katie, the girls and Gavin arrived at Aeeshah and we set off 9:15ish planning according to the tide that runs in and out of the harbour. Out on the out going, in on the incoming, the current is surprisingly strong.

 The girls were happy to be allowed their iPads down below. They were doing their homework and such.  We passed all the hotels, marinas, resorts, ports and all else that lines the long channel. 

Reaching Balandra, famous for its shallow, crystal-clear turquoise waters, white sand, surrounding desert mountains, and the iconic “Balandra Mushroom” rock formation. It was a pristine paradise day, with blue clear sky for us to enjoy.

Everyone was keen to head ashore, John dropped the dinghy and took Gavin, Katie and the girls ashore to one of the deserted beaches within the bay.

Next he returned for me. We left the dinghy on the beach and set off to follow them and enjoy a walk along the sands looking for shells and whatever we could find. 

In the distance we could see the crowds filling the main bay for their half day on the main beach. By road one gets either the morning slot or afternoon, 450 persons at each time slot for a fee.

We walked along the rocky shoreline and into the shallows being mindful of the stingrays we had heard about. It was a lovely morning.

Back to Aeeshah for lunch. I set up a buffet style lunch. Having just shopped we had fresh stick loaves plus salami and cheese, fruits. Katie and Gavin had brought his spicy salsa, nachos, cold meats and more. Meanwhile John got the paddle boards inflated and ready to go.

Off they went Gavin and Lily on one and Katie and Eve on another. They went all over the shallows of the bay, to the beach and more. 

John and I straightened up and set off in the dinghy to see the rest of the nearby bays and shoreline. We passed the famous mushroom rock, plus saw schools of rays gliding along in the shallows of the bays. 

Once back at the boat we told the family about the fever of rays and they headed out in the dinghy to find them.

(researching the group of rays I had found that: “A group of stingrays is called a fever this term is used to describe the large, synchronized gatherings of stingrays).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

They were really lucky to spot several schools of them too, the girls were thrilled.

Time to head back, it was going to be a long, hot, hour-long, slog, back to the marina. That was until we spotted whales breaching in the channel. There were numerous whales breaching, jumping high out of the water, slapping the surface, playing.

The whales really looked like they were fighting or rough playing, leaping high next to each other splashing their fins and tails. Lily and Eve were amazed, We were all thrilled to be able to watch the show they put on. So the return journey turned out to be quite thrilling.

Day 4 Friday

There was an Art gallery, that Katie fancied seeing, Museo de Arte de Baja California Sur. The artwork and murals were wonderful they reported back to us.

After which they did a bit of a wander around. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Us meanwhile got Aeeshah back in order, plus tried to figure out what to do about John’s missing phone. He had left it in his pocket when he went over board to the seals and lost it in the deep blue. He was well and truly stuck as all his info, online banking etc was not retrievable ….so we thought.

Day 5 Saturday: Off to the Whale Sharks

This our Whale shark adventure day. Gavin arranged for us to go with the same tour company, Alonso tours. This time we were with a group of other folks because that is how whale shark swim tours are conducted. 

Swimming with whale sharks in La Paz, is a must do, eco-tourism experience available just between October 1st to April 30th. The Parks Authorities control the bays, the numbers of tourists per day etc. Tours, normally led by marine biologists, allow snorkeling with these gentle giants that are up to 12m long, in the shallow, nutrient-rich waters 

We chose to wear our wet suits this time. The tour boat took us to the area where at this time of the year the whale sharks feed. He told us that the water is shallower so there would be mainly juveniles that we would swim with. 

Arriving at the site we all were more or less ready, suited up, with our masks snorkels and fins ready to take the plunge. Our instructions were to not go in front of the swimming whale sharks as they just keep going, slowly, smoothly, whether you are in their way or not. Not to touch them, to keep up with your group, listen to instructions and swim back to the boat if you have a problem. 

There were 4 of us to a group. Gavin, Katie and the girls were in group 2 and John and I in group 3 with 2 other adults. 

So we had to sit on the side of the boat and all together now, “1, 2, 3! Jump in!”

Once in the water the whale shark would be gliding towards you. 2 of us on each side would swim as fast as possible to keep up with the shark swimming along side. I’m not sure how long each swim was lasting, but basically just about as long as I had the stamina to last. The girls were amazing, they kept up with the shark, hardly tiring, and never had a problem. (The other children in our group quit after the 1st swim)

The sharks swim effortlessly, just moving their tail, never wavering. Their beady eyes just staring out, as they glide along with their mouths slightly open to catch the nutrients.

Our guide took some GoPro videos for us to have of the whale sharks. He too was an excellent guide.

We all did 4 group swims, which were thrilling! 

Whale sharks are amazing creatures. 

Here are 1a few facts about them from a diver blog:

World’s Largest Fish: The whale shark is the largest extant fish species, with some individuals measuring over 60 feet (18m) long and weighing over 40 tons. Scientists believe they live for a long time, potentially between 70 to 130 years.

Whale shark video from our trip

Filter Feeders: Despite their size, they eat tiny critters like krill, shrimp, and fish eggs, filtering them through their massive, up to 1.5-meter-wide mouths.

Whale shark video, encounter from our trip

Unique Spot Patterns: Every whale shark has a distinct, unique pattern of light spots and stripes on its back, used by researchers to identify individual sharks.

Slow-Moving Migrators: They are gentle swimmers, often moving at only 3 mph (5km) per hour, but they can migrate thousands of miles to feeding grounds eating krill, crab larvae and other tiny critters. 

Small Teeth, Large Gills: They have around 3,000 teeth, but they are tiny (1 inch long).and not used for eating; instead, they filter water through mesh-like gills.

Unique Eye Protection: Unlike eyelids, whale sharks have denticles (tiny teeth) on their eyeballs to protect their eyes, allowing them to retract their eyes for safety.

The Mystery of Birth: Very little is known about their mating and birth, as only one pregnant female has been officially examined, which revealed they are ovoviviparous, meaning

It was a wonderful experience, one none of us will ever forget!

After the whale shark swim we stopped by the tourist market and had a look around. Plus made some purchases.

The last say had arrived, Gavin, Katie, Lily and Evie came to Aeeshah to spend some time before leaving for the airport. We all walked back to the Airbnb, hugged said our fond farewells and off they went for the long journey back to Bermuda.

Being me I asked each of them a few questions about their time in La Paz with us.

Eve:

My favorite adventures were:

1st, Swimming with the whale sharks.  I liked  swimming with whale sharks because we have never ever swam with them. They are beautiful and I wasn’t scared.

2, Seeing the whales jumping. Seeing the whales jumping in the sea was special because I’ve never seen a whale jump so close to me before. 

3. Seeing and swimming with the seals and sea lions.

I liked swimming with sea lions, even though it was really cold. It was really amazing.

What were your favorite foods: Ceviche and the guacamole

Lily: 

My favorite adventures were:

1, Seeing the whale sharks. I liked swimming with the whale sharks because I don’t get to even see them in Bermuda. And I was right next to them.

2, The day we saw whales jumping in the sea nearby. It was exciting I’ve never seen whales so close before.

3. The school of stingrays. I’ve never seen anything like groups of stingrays before.

Favorite foods, “That’s a tough one. I’ll have to think about that….. Probably the tacos.”

Katie:

1. Swimming with the whale sharks. It was so incredible to be next to such a large animal and have it be so peaceful. It was a memory I will keep forever. It was a lot harder to keep up with them than thought it would be! I was also, so proud of the girls and how brave they were swimming alongside the whale sharks

2. Our day out on the sailboat Aeeshah and going to Balandra beach. This was such a great day. I loved paddle boarding in the shallows of the area. The giant needlefish were great and the packs of stingrays were wonderful to see. Plus we saw whales jumping on the way home. It was a great day out.

3. The snorkeling off and near Espiritu Santo. Firstly, the deep area when we went through a cave at the end of the seal lion swim. Secondly there was great snorkeling after lunch. I loved seeing the garfish and trumpetfish, there were so many there. Holding the girls hands while they snorkeled and explored the sea always makes me so happy.

4. You didn’t ask for a 4th, but our last night in La Paz was just awesome. We walked down the malecon at night which was full of vibrant music and families enjoying the sunset. We had a great meal of fresh fish! And as we walked home we stopped to buy for paletas (popsicles). Those paletas are divine, so fresh with real fruit! We laughed the whole way home and it was a perfect ending to a great week.

Gavin:

(I decided to go off script and pick my 2 favorite days)

Our big tour was fantastic and having our own boat and such a knowledgeable crew was perfect. I think that was really the key part of the trip as it reinforced that we really wanted to go back to one of those beaches and spend more time there. It was the best way to see Espiritu in its entirety. Such a beautiful place and so full of life in the ocean. The contrast to the desolate land was what made it so unique. That day paved the way for my next favorite day.

Which was when you all took us out on the boat to Playa Ballandra. that was great for two reasons, firstly, because I think it really showed the girls how you live being on the boat as opposed to just visiting, but also it gave us some time to really enjoy one of the most amazing beaches. Had we gone by shore, along with the masses, we never would’ve had access to a dinghy or the paddle boards not to mention being able to enjoy some shade and a nice lunch!

The whale sharks were an amazing and exciting adventure, but those two days really will be remembered by all. Thanks!

It was a wonderful week, that I’m sure we will all remember and treasure the memories.

“Family is where life begins, and love never ends.” — Unknown