Isla Isobel, also called the Mexican Galapagos

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After leaving Mazatlan we set sail for Isla Isobel. The weather was predicted to be reasonable for several days and we both really wanted to visit.

Isla Isobel

is located approximately 15 miles off the coast of Mexico and was just a small detour for where we were eventually headed. The over night passage was another calm, easy run.

However we did keep seeing large buoys or groups of buoys that were anchored with what appeared to be massive nets attached underneath. We considered these quite a threat to night time travel. However, we never had a problem.

There are 2 anchorages at Isla Isobel, the south and east anchorages we anchored in the east anchorage as it offered the best protection from the wind and swell. We were between a small island and the main island, there was one other boat there at the time. However that changed and we ended up with 4 other boats.

The island looked very parched, browned, from where we were but we could also see hundreds of birds. The birds were on the shores, in the trees, flying above and in the water. They are what most folks come to see, and the reason is simple:

The birds found at Isabel

Isla Isabel is one of the main nesting islands for seabirds in the Pacific. Notably, nine seabird species are known to breed in large numbers on Isla Isobel.

There are, over 11,000 Blue-footed Boobies, Brown Boobies, large colonies of the magnificent Frigate birds, (Man of war Birds); Yellow-Rumped Tropicbirds, Gray Pelicans, Terns, and Brown Noddy are some of the seabird species that call Isla Isabel home.

Marine life is also rich, with over 24 shark and ray species, three species of sea turtles, the California Sea Lion, Humpback Whale and Killer Whale – orcas.

We had visited primarily to see the birds as it was the tail end of nesting season.

Looking down into the water we could see that it was actually quite clear. I thought I would try a snorkel around….. After getting all my gear out and ready for the 1st time in months, I was quite disappointed as it was still too murky – nutrient rich, to make snorkeling worthwhile. The water however was lovely and refreshing for a swim and we both enjoyed a refreshing swim.

Next came out our paddle boards. This time we were able to sit and kneel on them. We paddled around the island that was nearby. John actually managed to stand and paddle. However he found it made him dizzy….

Background of Isla Isobel:

Isla Isabel National Park is a Mexican national park and protected area. It was one Jacques Cousteau’s favorite places. Cousteau himself made the recommendation to the Mexican government to designate this island as a National Park. He spent a great deal of time there and made several specials for TV about Isla Isobel.

1st venture ashore

The next morning we set off to go in the dinghy around where we were anchored and to head to the south anchorage where there was a good beach to land.

1st we cruised the shoreline across from where we were anchored was a sandy beach. On the beach were many birds, mainly Boobies, terns and gulls. We went past slowly, not one was bothered by us.

Further along we could see a camp in the brush, we later learned it was occupied by university students sent there to do important bird studies and counts.

Further along were cliffs that again were covered by birds, all types, pelicans, boobies and others. Out at the small Islas we were both amazed by the incredible rock formations.

These islas are very tall, but have crazy formations that look to be just balanced or hanging there.

Birds again were everywhere, nesting, roosting and soaring above.

I even saw what looked like a Bermuda Long Tail, – a Tropic Bird, but was the Yellow-Rumped Tropicbird.

Next was a venture into the south anchorage.

The island is said to be uninhabited by humans. But, there is a seabird reproductive research program run by UNAM and researchers/tourists can visit to camp, fish and bird watch. Plus, there has always been a fishermen’s camp at the south anchorage. So the term uninhabited is loosely used.

We followed the coastline around and then into the south anchorage. The fishing camp lined the beach, a few boats were moored, a few fishermen were busy with their boats.

After landing the dinghy we walked along to the end of the beach, read the notice board and then took the pathway behind the fishing huts. The pathway headed uphill.

Passing the pond, behind the fishing huts. We had to be careful where we trod as the brown iguanas were so unafraid they just sat staring along the dusty pathway.

Isobel is a volcanic island that was formed about 3.5 million years ago. It is about 2 km long and about 3/4 km at its widest point. In the center of the island is a crater that is now a lagoon – Laguna Fragatas. We headed towards the lagoon.

The magnificent Frigate birds

Isla Isabel is known for its large colonies of magnificent Frigate birds aka man-of-war birds. Along the way there were Frigate birds still nesting in the trees and flying above. The babies that were still there were so fluffy and cute.

The main nesting and breeding season for birds on Isla Isabel is February to April, it was now the beginning of May, it was the end of the breeding season for the frigate birds many had already hatched, grown and flown the nests.

What we got to see were the few that were left. During the main breeding season apparently thousands of frigate birds build nests in the short, scrubby garlic-pear trees.

I read that both male and female Frigate birds incubate the egg, which takes 50-60 days to hatch. The male shares responsibility for feeding the nestling for about 4 weeks.

The female Frigatebird then continues to nurture the baby on her own while the male goes off to molt before returning in the hopes of breeding again with a different mate.

A baby bird fledges the nest around 6 months of age, but it is often still being fed by the mother until it is one year old.

Laguna Fragatas

Reaching the top of the hill we saw the crater below with its green hyper saline waters.

It was surprisingly attractive with the bright green waters. Down the hillside passing many more birds to the edge of the crater we went. Next we followed a pathway partway around the crater and up to the top again.

I must say it was incredibly hot, with no breeze or shade and the dry, dry landscape. I was quite happy to head back to the fishermen’s beach.

Back along the shoreline from the south beach we again marveled at the rock formations, the differing colors of the rocks,

the amount of birds roosting and the seas crashing ashore, all timeless.

The following day

we ventured in the dinghy ashore to the nearby beach. We landed the dinghy right next to the boobies and gulls on the beach. They totally ignored us.

Along the beach to where we saw the campsite there were birds roosting, walking, just chilling all around us.

Nearing the campsite we started chatting with one of the students. They were camped out there for the duration of the season, counting, checking, tagging the various birds for the studies that were being conducted.They would work in 2 week shifts, replacing/rotations each other. The fishermen bring supplies and transport them. They all seemed very happy, solar panels for power and even a starlink for communication.

We headed off in the direction of the cliffs, but having to be careful where we trod as there were nesting birds in the pathway.

Blue-footed Boobies were in the thickets, on the rocky ridges closer to shore, along the sandy tree line, sitting and watching us.

A few began to argue, some charged somewhat angrily towards us. Apparently, the name Booby comes from the Spanish word “bobo” meaning fool or dunce and alluding to the birds’ clumsiness on land.

The males use their blue feet during breeding rituals to impress prospective females. The more blue the feet, the better a male’s prospects are. Noticing the bands on the bird’s leg was evidence of the work carried out at the research station by visiting group students.

We looked at the pathway that headed up to where we had been the day before, it looked so very dry and hot, which it is….

Back at the beach amongst the birds I enjoyed looking for shells and bits of coral.

I was surprised by the crabs we saw, they were either bright red or dark black, neither had I seen before.

There were several birds that looked sickly and we guessed that when they were unable to fly they relied on whatever drifted in with the tide.

We both loved our time at Isla Isobel and intend to return. The anchorage had become increasingly rolly, so it was time to head back to the mainland. San Blas was the destination.

Another smooth sail, this time a fast downwind slide to San Blas. We anchored close to where we had before. We stayed the night and then we were off to Chachala.

John had his rod over just because, and he caught a nice Jack.

Arriving at Chachala it was necessary to drop the stern anchor too. The seas were up and the swell was large, rolling ashore and crashing on the beach.