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Farewell La Cruz and Paradise Marina
A day before leaving we went for a day trip to La Cruz, mainly to walk around and enjoy the atmosphere.
We visited the usual places, the town square, the walkway along the fishermen’s wharf,
the fish market and out along the peninsular.
Of course we bought sour dough from Ron and fish from the fish market plus had lunch at one of our favorite restaurants.
And then it was time to say adios to our friends.
From Puerto Vallarta we headed to La Cruz where we anchored outside the marina. John took the empty fuel tanks into the marina fuel dock. He was soon back aboard Aeeshah and we up anchored and were Punta Mita bound.
Punta Mita was an over night stop for us and we were up early, we headed out and north up the coast towards San Blas. The passaged was quite uneventful, except for seeing several whales.
San Blas
We arrived in San Blas and anchored in the middle of the huge bay, hopefully that the no-see-ums and mosquitoes would not come. However, they arrived and were a right nuisance as usual.
El Borrego was the main beach we were anchored off of, a two-mile sweep of golden, sand and gentle waves. At the head of the beach is Playa Las Islitas, one of Mexico’s most beloved surf spots.
Yes, the whole bay is very shallow and lined by beach with mangroves, thus you get the flying pests. We needed to stay here for a few days to get a good weather window for our next destination.
We went ashore in the morning with the intent to get some exercise. Landing the dinghy didn’t prove too difficult as the tide was high. We left it near the palapa where we know the fellow Mario who manages it.
Off we walked down the track towards the main road. It always amazes me how there is this very long beach and all the way along are palapas, all selling food and drinks. Everyone slightly different, but all selling the same types of foods, and they never seem to have that many customers.
Along the main street we headed passing the little tiendas. The majority of these sell baked goods specializing in banana breads. Yep, all in a row both sides of the road all selling the same type of produce. We did buy some banana bread as it is very good.
We reached the panga stop, by the river, where folks wait to go to the Croc farm. Yes, Crocodiles cruise through mangrove-lined rivers and estuaries. There we rested in the shade with a drink of iced tea, people watched and then headed back to Aeeshah.
The next day we had Mario drop us into the town of San Blas.
We had been there before, but just wanted to get some exercise and have a look around. Plus stock up on some more fruits.
This sleepy port town hasn’t bowed to resort sprawl or mass tourism. Instead, it thrives in its wilderness. It is still a typical, Mexican town with its charming square and narrow dusty streets.
San Blas was founded as a strategic port in the 18th century by the Spanish Crown. The port became the launch point for expeditions to what is now California. From here, Gaspar de Portolá and Junípero Serra departed to establish the missions that would become San Diego and Monterey.
Isla Isobel, the Galapagos of Mexico was our next destination.
Isla Isabel is a volcanic island, dating back, they say, approximately 3.5 million years. It is an important National Park and an oasis of marine biodiversity. Over nine species of sea birds reproduce in this National park they are:
The Blue-Footed Booby, Brown Boobies, Brown Pelican, the Magnificent Frigate birds, the Yellow-Rumped Tropicbirds, Gray Pelicans, Sooty Terns and Brown Noddies.
Isla Isabel is often called the “Galápagos of Mexico” due to these huge seabird populations and lack of fear towards humans
Humpback Whales can be seen during the breeding season and Whale sharks can be observed while snorkeling. There are many other animal and plant species that inhabitat Isla Isabel that are of importance to conservation and diverseity.
We arrived after a six hour sail and anchored off of the south anchorage.
This was a new anchorage for us so we enjoyed the new view. Just after we arrived another boat came in and dropped ahead of us. They turned out to be Danish couple who were very friendly.
The next morning we set off and headed into the fishermen’s camp on the beach.
There we found a boat that had just arrived with their catch and the frigate birds were going crazy. They swoop low and dive down to the fishermen just begging for scraps.
The fishermen go out at night, returning in the morning, to clean their catch. Meanwhile another panga has brought tubs of ice and supplies, they put the fish on ice until it is taken by another fishing boat to the mainland market. The men told John they work in weekly rotations. The fishing is also regulated by the parks.
We headed off towards the lighthouse on the hill, a spot we never visited last time on Isobel. The Danish couple followed us from the beach and we walked together.
The frigate birds were nesting, building nests and mating in the bushes above our heads. So, unafraid of humans as they have never been threatened.
Magnificent Frigate birds
Everyone delights in this large, black pterodactyl-like bird that soars effortlessly on tropical breezes with hardly a flap, using its deeply forked tail to steer. Watching a Magnificent Frigate bird float in the air truly is, as the name implies, magnificent. These master aerialists are also pirates of the sky, stealing food from other birds in mid-flight. Males have a bright red pouch on the throat, which they inflate like a balloon to attract females. Females unlike most other seabirds look different than males with their white chest.
The climb up was steep for me still getting used to my new knee. The views were spectacular and once at the top the views were even more stunning.
We all enjoyed the views and of course the birds. The Blue Footed Boobies were starting to nest upon the top and upper slopes. They again were very accepting of our presence.
Heading down was, for me, far more difficult. I made the mistake of sitting down above a short drop in order to step down more easily. Well that was a huge mistake! The tiny, sharp burs from the grass found upon the slopes picked me quite sharply through my shorts and undies. Plus the darn burs stayed attached!!
Back down we headed back to Aeeshah while the Danes went off to explore further.
Day 2
Off ashore for another hike, this one to the far beach where the pinnacles are located off shore.
Another good uphill climb through trees full of Frigate birds in all stages of flirting and nest building. The males puffing out their red balloons that are below their beaks, then drumming on them to attract their chosen mate. The females making squarks of acceptance.
From uphill we then descended to the lake shore. This is a brackish lake/big pond, right in the middle of the island, probably the site of the crater.
Back uphill and across the isle to then the climb down to the shoreline. This shore is incredibly scenic.
Again the birds are prolific, populating all the trees, upper edge of the beach and the rock too.
The off shore pinnacles are gorgeous!
Blue-footed Booby
The Blue-footed Booby has been captivating the human imagination for centuries. With its mating display, in which its vivid baby-blue feet play a key role, and with the name, “booby”. This is apparently taken from the Spanish word for “stupid,” (“bobo”). It refers to the birds’ tameness around people.
We walked the beach, me looking for shells. And then it was time to return.
By that time my knees had had enough and it took me a while to get up and down those slopes back to the fishermen’s beach.
Day 3
We decided to go snorkeling. John was much more daring than I as the surf on the rocks was pounding in. He went much closer to where the under water arches were and saw many rays, different fish and ells.
I swam towards the shore where it looked calmer. And honestly was not really impressed. There is very little coral, lots of mossy growth and loads of rocks.
I did see a few rays and the fish that I saw were colourful.
Alas, it was time to leave, the weather was changing and the wind and seas would be impossible for us to stay at Isla Isobel.
