Aeeshah

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/h3JpZWhPeRLVJpGr9

Maria picked us up bright and early in the morning at the crazy hour of 5:30am. She and her friend drove us to the airport in Cuenca. There we boarded a flight to Quito. The flight was at 6:50am and an easy half hour later we were landing. Milton, who had driven back to Quito met us at the airport.

We drove with Milton towards our next destination:

Otavalo

Driving along the Pan American highway, Milton kept to his informative dialogue telling us all about the surrounding countryside. He 1st stopped at:

Mirador El Pisque

El Mirador is a scenic viewpoint and the peak of the inactive Sincholagua volcano can be seen.

The view is wonderful, you feel as if you are on top of the world. Milton pointed out that this is a dry region, (rain shadow), thus all the cacti.

A bit further along we stopped for breakfast at a roadside cafe. The choices of buns and rolls were all Ecuadorian, some with cheeses, some sweet, some savory. Once again all was delicious served with hot cocoa, teas and coffee. 

Back on the road we saw more green houses for the flower exports and of course beautiful bunches of flowers for sale.

And then we arrived in Octavalo and our very nice hotel Hostel Dona Esther.

Milton left us there after recommending we get out and see what was happening.

So, out we went and we walked to the town square where there were festivities happening. A band was playing music and there was a procession taking place.

We were not sure what the occasion was, but guessing it was a wedding or engagement of type, as in the center was a young woman with cash pinned to her clothing.

We had a very nice lunch and then walked around the town square enjoying the architecture and seeing the indigenous in their differing clothing, style of dress. Milton had told us each town group wears different colour hats and blankets. 

Otavalo market

The main attraction of Octavalo is the market, this was our next stop. Otavalo is known around the world as the home of the largest market in South America. The people in this region have been weavers and artisans since before Incan times.

The artisanal products are handmade by talented local artisans and master craftsmen. You can find everything from intricate ceramics to musical instruments made with wood from the nearby cloud forest and various textiles and clothing items.

I loved the differing jewelry stalls with earrings made with silver and butterfly wings, beaded armbands and earrings made from minuscule beads woven into intricate designs. The textiles ranged from hand woven materials to alpaca and lama wool scarfs all immaculately made.

It was really a sensory over load wandering the market stalls, so much so we had to take a break, go for a hot cocoa and then go back. Many of the artisans wanted to talk about their various crafts and artwork so we spent several hours in this market, even so we never got to see it all.

We again strolled around the town enjoying the atmosphere, the sights, the architecture, and so much more!

The next day our driver was Jose, we hadn’t seen him for a week and it was good to catch up with him. He first took us to: 

The Peguche Waterfall

We walked from the carpark along a wonderfully, lush, green pathway. Everywhere was green and shaded  by tall, tall trees while winding alongside a river. After a while we could see the waterfall in the distance.

 The Peguche Waterfall is 18 meters, (55ft), high and surrounded by lush green vegetation, which creates a very photogenic spot. We spent a while just wandering around the bottom of the waterfall. Jose told us that the river pools are used for purification rituals during religious festivals.

We could see petals from roses by the side of the river, he said that they were probably from a wedding. Also, the indigenous locals follow the sun calendar  and believe taking cleansing baths here a few days before the Inti Raymi ceremony, will give them strength and chase away evil spirits.

We next took a pathway up to a platform further up the waterfall. Again the view was beautiful, so green and lush. Apparently the river that feeds the waterfall rises on the slopes of the Imbabura volcano at an elevation of 8,760 feet.

On our way back down we passed a sun calendar that the locals have that tells them the time of season. There are 28 days in their months.

Our next stop was at a textile weaver’s shop and “factory” 

We were shown two different methods of weaving that the local indigenous use to make the amazing textiles. The first one was for one of the wall hangings or cloths.

The lady doing the weaving was so quick I could not get a photo as it was just a blur of movement. 

She also showed us how the alpaca or lama fur comes in just a heap, so 1st it is brushed. They use a brush that is made from the teasel plant seed pods. 

Next we were shown how the fur is spun into woolen strands. Ladies can be seen walking around doing this as it becomes second nature to them as they are taught from young girls.

The dying is the next stage, she showed us all the seeds, plant leaves etc that they use to make the various dyes. One red seed she squirted lime on and the dye was instantly in her hand. All of this was fascinating! 

She then moved to a larger loom and again demonstrated the weaving. Again her hands moved like lightening back and forth.

Plus the differing levels of the loom changing to form the pattern or picture she was creating. It was quite unbelievable. 

We walked around the studio and shop, the textiles were amazing. We did buy a few items, but I could have easily bought just so many.

It was lunch time and Jose suggested a very nice restaurant. The decor was very colourful and our food excellent. Again John and I tried a different fruit juice, I believe it was from the soursap fruit which was delicious. 

Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve and the Cuicocha Lagoon

Next on our day’s agenda was a visit to the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve and the Cuicocha Lagoon. The lagoon is a volcanic crater with brilliantly, colorful, turquoise, water.

It sits at the foot of Cotacachi Volcano in the Cordillera Occidental of the Ecuadorian Andes, near the Colombian border. In its center, it has volcanic domes that peak above the surface of the lake. The word ‘cuicocha’ means in the indigenous Kichwa language lake of guinea pigs, because of the shape of these islands. 

There are hot mineral springs that feed into the lake thus the colour. Unfortunately it wasn’t such a sunny day so the lake was a bit dull, but the scenery was lovely.

We had a very nice walk along a portion of the rim and enjoyed looking down on the lake. I was again very interested in the flowers I saw, having never seen any like them before.

Once again a wonderful day out with Jose.

“Stuff your eyes with wonder, live as if you’d drop dead in ten seconds. See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories.” ~ Ray Bradbury

 

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/jiGaToWWsbpijb6C7

This was day 8 in Ecuador for us and we were headed to Ingapirca, the most significant Inca ruins in Ecuador. Milton arrived and we were off heading through the Andes. 

Exciting drive with Milton

1st the Islesia Del Ecuador

It wasn’t too long before we had stopped. Milton wanted to show us the 1st and oldest church in Ecuador, the Islesia Del Ecuador. Built  or founded in1534, when the 1st Spanish arrived.

it is holy for the Santisima Virgen Maria natividad de Balbanera, (sacred to Mary the mother of Christ in the Catholic Bible). It was easy to see that this was an old the structure by the architecture.

Exhibited inside the back area were an ancient organ/piano and other relics. Plus artifacts taken from the Incas. In front there was a well with an old hand pump, which Milton demonstrated still works!

Yes, he pumped up water. Across the road were food stands where ladies were roasting Guinea pigs, no we didn’t stop to buy any.

Along the rest of the way Milton entertained us by pointing out the many fields of quinoa. The fields ranged from greens to lovely pinky reds as the grain ripened.

We saw the dairy farms with women waiting by the roadside to have the milk jug’s collected. Fields of golden wheat and oats with groups harvesting the produce by hand. They were amused to see me taking a photo. 

We reach a detour in the road where we had to go onto a newly dug route. Milton explained that there had been a terrible landslide which had taken out the road and part of a town plus killing a number of residents. This newly dug road was along what was previously an old, very narrow, steep route. It was still being dug and so really dusty and rough.

Therefore when Milton became very quiet and was concentrating on driving down this rough road we didn’t really think anything of it. In fact what had happened was the steering had stiffened and Milton was having a hard time keeping our vehicle on the road.

We reached the town at the bottom of the hill and arrived at a garage. That was when we were told the steering was not responding properly. We had basically slide downhill, around corners and nudged into the garage.

Straightway there were a few mechanics taking a look under the van and under the hood. The bottom line was the steering cable was broken and the steering fluid had leaked out. Believe it or not, but in half an hour the steering was fixed, the fluid replaced and we were underway. 

At the top of a mountain opposite the town Milton stopped to point out the landslide that had occurred across the town to us. Off we drove to the Ingapirca Ruins.

Ingapirca Ruinas

Ingapirca, this archeological site is located in the Cañar province. Ingapirca is composed of two Quichua words: Inga meaning Inca and Pirca which means wall. We arrived and Milton arranged for a special, private, guide to take us around the ruins. Our guide Angel was excellent. He started by giving us the back ground history of the site:

Angel told that In 1463, the Inca warrior Pachacuti and his son Tupac Yupanqui began to take over the land we now call Ecuador. In that they began by defeating the people of the sierra including the Quitus tribe, (the people for whom modern-day Quito is named). He said that he was also a descendent of this tribe, the Quitus, of which very few folks still recognize as a tribe any more simply because the tribes have blended together. The Incas didn’t need to fight, they simply negotiated a take over. Saying that a peaceful transfer of power was better than a war which they garenteed they would win.

We were shown how the walls of these ruins are remarkable, held together in the typical Incan way of being cut to perfection without using any adherent, as is typical of all Inca builds. 

Apparently, when the Spanish arrived they took many stones from the structures to use in their buildings. However, since the site was rediscovered many of its blocks were returned by the locals once they recognized them as coming from the important site.

The entire site is actually quite large and integrated by roads. We only toured the main area where we were shown the “holes” made as food deposits. Where the houses had been situated, along with a reconstructed home. 

A cemetery, where the very important leaders were buried along with their wives and house workers. All tucked up together for eternity. 

An astronomical observatory, where the stars were studied. The Incas having a year comprised of 28 days in a month. Angel showed us how they harvested the threads for weaving. And oh so much more.

The famous Temple of the Sun which was central to their beliefs. Therefore the temple was the most important building in the entire complex. It was constructed with an oval platform which makes it unique, since other Inca’s ruins have circle platforms.  This building also offered the best view of the complex and the valley beyond. 

After our tour we could have visited the museum, but we decided to opt for lunch as it was getting late.

Lunch was an education too. We decided to try an Ecuadorian option called a Humitas or steamed fresh corn cakes. Humitas are made using fresh corn, which is ground with other ingredients, (ours had fresh cheese), and then stuffed in a fresh corn husk and steamed.

In Ecuador, humitas are very popular in the Sierra or Highland region, especially in cities like Loja, Cuenca or Quito, and they are typically eaten for breakfast or with the afternoon coffee….And it was amazing!! It was delicious, both the flavor of the cornbread and the cheese with the slight corn husk flavor blended. 

We were then on the road for our next destination Cuenca.

Milton was to drop us at our hotel and then had to drive all the way back to Quito. So, when we arrived at our hotel and found it locked up it was quite concerning. However after 15 minutes of knocking, ringing the bell, banging the door, finally a young man appeared. We guessed he had been sleeping, Milton was most annoyed.

Then when we were shown to our room we found it was tiny, tiny….we measured it at 9ft by 9ft. Yes, it was very disappointing. It was also set right off of a city street and was very antiquated.

We did have a quite nice dinner at an unusually decorated restaurant nearby.

“I seek out the wide open spaces,

And exotically beautiful places,

No border will bar as I follow that star,

For travel is one of life’s graces” – anonymous

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>> https://photos.app.goo.gl/uWajJVA86ZHQykfr5

Across the Andes

The day started off as every day did with a great breakfast and Milton arriving at 8:00 to take us to: Chimborazo.

The drive there wove through the mountains, towns and farmland of the region. All along the way Milton had information for us. One of the towns was renowned for its denim clothing that it manufactured, therefore their Main Street had stores displaying denim clothes.

In another area there were many Guinea pig farms and therefore Guinea pigs being cooked and offered for sale on the roadside. 

The farming in one region consisted of different cactus which was used to make an Ecuadorian alcohol. Yet another plant was used for the fibrous strings that came from the “leaves” which the locals used to weave into bags and hats. 

On the other side of the mountain there were the farms with orchards of the blackberries and blueberries. Farms with orchards of apple trees, plum and pear trees were found yet further along on the other side of the mountains. 

We had to stop in Riobamba, named after the Rio Mamba river to pick up our guide for the Chimborazo walk. His name was Miguel and he turned out to be a very quiet young man. 

Chimborazo

It was a perfect day to visit Chimborazo, there was hardly a cloud in the sky. As we approached we were both stunned by the beauty of the area and of the Chimborazo volcano.

Chimborazo, rising to 20,702 feet (6,310 meters), is the highest peak in Ecuador. It is an inactive volcano with many craters, and it is heavily glaciated. However these glaciers are rapidly shrinking due to global warming. 

Scientists do agree that the peak of Chimborazo volcano is the furthest point from the center of the earth’s core, and the closest point on earth to the sun.

Many attempts were made to climb Chimborazo in the 18th and 19th centuries; the first to reach the summit was the British mountaineer Edward Whymper.  He climbed the peak twice in 1880. The geographer and traveler Alexander von Humboldt reached 19,286 feet (5,878 meters) in 1802. The climb up Chimborazo has also claimed a number of climbers lives mainly due to avalanches.

Up, and up we drove, around bends over bumps on the ever changing rough terrain of the roadway, passing Lamas, sheep and Alpacas. It was quite incredible how high we were…..

 We were at the 1st refuge when Milton parked. Above us was the monument to Chimborazo and the climbers who had gone before. Above that was the 2nd refuge where base camp was found. Unlike Cotopaxi the weather here that day was very cool but not uncomfortable, the sky clear. 

We were higher than at Cotopaxi, but I felt close to normal. John and I were the highest we had ever been before at over 16,000 feet. John wanted to climb to the 2nd refuge, I was happy with climbing to the monument.

Up, and up the path I went, around a few bends, over rocks and between boulders. John and the guide Miguel were already there.

Milton was at the 1st refuge. We looked at the gravestones, most of which remembered climbers lost to Chimborazo avalanches. 

Again the view was awesome, so clear and crisp was the air, the scenery incredible. 

Off John and Miguel went up the path towards the second refuge, the red and black jackets disappearing around the bends.

John told me later that Miguel told him to shuffle his feet, not take steps, but do a slow shuffle forward. He said it was a very hard slog getting up there. It took them about an hour to shuffle up. When they reached the refuge took some photos and then returned to find Milton and I. 

 

Meanwhile, I spent some time watching them disappear around the bends in the path.  

First I had another look around the monument and the graveyard then I slowly descended to where I thought I would find Milton.

I eventually saw Milton on another hilltop where the campsite was located. Up I went finding the view from there to be stunning.

The trailhead for a walking path started there, plus I found a small stream where birds were enjoying the water. In other words I explored around the immediate area while John and Miguel walked to and from the 2nd refuge.

Once they returned we climbed into Milton’s van and started to head back to Riobamba. As we were setting off we spied cyclists setting off down the slopes.

Yes, down on bikes. Apparently it is quite popular to have bikes then up to the 1st refuge and to then bike down. From my perspective this looked to be dangerous. From John’s perspective it looked exciting. Our guide Miguel has ridden down many times. He admitted most folks fall off several times.

Further along I asked to stop to look at these plants with yellow flowers. They were quite tall and with furry leaves….apparently called Rabbit’s ears.

The drive back was just as scenic, we saw indigenous shepherds and their mountain homes, lamas, alpacas and sheep.

Milton took us to our accommodation, Hotel Hacienda Abraspungo,

which was a wonderful old farmstead and a 4 star hotel.

There we had a most enjoyable walk around the estate and that evening an incredible dinner.

“I love places that make you realize how tiny you and your problems are.”

“Travel makes you realize that no matter how much you know, there’s always more to learn.”

 

PHOTO ALBUM–>>       https://photos.app.goo.gl/vNEzjgV7M7e6sSeBA

BANOS

July 12th, we were in Banos, which literally means baths. This  name comes from the hot springs and mineral baths available. Baños sits at the foot of the Tungurahua volcano, which has been steadily flowing hot lava and ash since a big eruption in 1999. There are also several rivers flowing with numerous waterfalls and all coming together in a wonderful valley, like a huge gorge. 

I guess the best description that I have is that there is this long gorgeous, green gorge like valley that has dozens of waterfalls tumbling down the sides feeding three large rivers that all meet and head towards the Amazon. 

Ruta de las Cascadas

Milton arrived to take us to explore the Valley of the waterfalls the Ruta de las Cascadas in other words: the Route of the Waterfalls. This is one of the best natural attractions in Ecuador, it is a 20-kilometer stretch of the Pastaza River, where 11 waterfalls are found. In addition, this area is a hub of adventure activities.

Milton took the old, narrow, one way route that runs right along the ledge above the river.

We drove some of the route stopping to look down at the river and take pictures of the river and various falls.

Next, Milton suggested for us to walk ahead. He parked along the side, as we disappeared around a corner, then he would drive along and re-park, keeping an eye on us is what he said.

It really was fun walking behind and in front of the waterfalls that were tumbling down the cliffs face.

Upon reaching an area where you could, zip line or cable car across the valley, we chose to cable car across for $1.00. Milton agreed to come for the ride too.

Whoopee, we flew across the valley gorge, me taking pics as we went able to see above and beyond the valley.

The waterfall on the other side was a large one that we could visit but opted not to.

Back on our side we continued along the river valley, past a  fish farm for trout and looking out across at the large waterfalls and farmlands.

Arriving at an entertainment area further down the river valley there  were many options for entertainment, bridges to cross to the other side, zip lining across, the usual down river sports.

We opted for the hanging bridge that was in part clear so as to suggest there was nothing between you and the river. The crossing was fun, I was amazed and amused by the number of folks that were terrified by the crossing….

There was one stretch where the glass one walked on artificially cracked under you as if it were giving way. 

How to make sweet treats?

On we went in Milton’s car for a short drive to a sweet manufacturing business. It was just a little store, but that were chock a block with sweets of all types.

However they all had a few common factors: they were made from sugar cane, fruits, nuts, cocoa, nuts and seeds. In other words they were all totally natural.

We strolled around the store front and then went behind scenes to see the vats of sugar cane and fruits being brewed for the next batches.

Plus we saw the packaging and the garden where many of the fruits were grown. And, Yes, we did buy several packets of yummy snacks.

 

Rio Verde aka Green river followed by the Pailon Del Diablo or Devils Caldron area and falls.

Next stop was the absolutely beautiful Rio Verde aka Green river followed by the Pailon Del Diablo or Devils Caldron area and falls. 

To get to this area we had our guide Milton who knew all the ins and outs plus info about the area parked near a friend’s little tienda.

From there we followed him along a lovely path to, the Isla de Pallion Trail. This area was damp from the river and lush with green vegetation.

All along the path were the wonderful ever present flowering plants. The calm of the shady tree canopy was a contrast to the turmoil of the rushing river below us.

A constant, dull roar in the distance can be heard till finally we reached the first caldron where the river emptied straight down, down, down into the dark cavern below.

Next, the trail drops, taking us down a cemented, sometimes stepped-path to the suspension bridge below. This is why the trail is a called an island; it uses bridges to cross impossibly steep mountain walls. The whole area is damp and the orchids plus bromeliads are thriving in the trees from the rising spray.

 The falls are 1,410m or 4,626ft. above sea level and they themselves are 80m or 280ft tall, absolutely massive falls! The waterfall feels so much taller when standing right next to it.

There’s a massive amount of water compressed into a narrow channel before exploding off a mountain ledge. The force of that churning water created a dramatic bowl where it meets the mountain. That bowl holds all of that swirling water before allowing it to exit through a rocky channel down to the valley below. The result is a second drop that is even more dramatic.

We followed along from one suspension bridge to another and then down the steep, slippery stairs, stopping frequently to takes photos. Towards the bottom Milton took a photo of us with the raging down pour behind. 

To look down into the Devils caldron and onto the rocks below is absolutely awesome. The power of the water incredible! This was indeed a real wonder to see! 

Ecuador is capitalizing on its water supply as it exports the hydro power to Colombia and Peru. In July of this year it exported $32.13 million of hydro electrical energy!

Our next stop was again along the waterfall route. We stopped to look back at the Devil’s Caldron from the roadside. Milton then explained the name with a little diagram he drew, so that we could see the Devils Caldron. 

Lunch was in Banos. We chose to go to a small cafe that was delightfully decorated and served the most wonderful sandwiches. All on Milton’s recommendation of course. 

The Casa Del Arbol swing and top of the world

This was our next stop. Casa del Arbol Swing is a seismic monitoring station that has capitalized on its perfect mountaintop location next to the Tungurahua Volcano by installing a treehouse with a rope swing.

The swing is called: the Swing at the End of the World, as offers thrills with an unobstructed view of the volcano. The whole area is in a lovely garden setting with beautiful flowers being tended by luminous green humming birds.

The views are amazing, we totally enjoyed wandering around. The swing was great fun, I just loved it!! John was a bit reluctant but once on it he seemed to warm to the ride.

Next stop:Glass Bridge & Extreme Giant Swing

Glass Bridge & Extreme Giant Swing at 2600m high!! This amazing attraction had only just opened in June. Going on the glass platform is exciting! The feel of being able to look straight down several hundreds of feet is mentally stimulating.

We both enjoyed the sensation of walking almost on nothing. But it is the views from the platform that are magical. No number of words can describe the spectacular views.

As for the swing, I was tempted, but at $50 a pop it was just too much of an expense. We then climbed to the very top of the tower and enjoyed the higher view from up where the birds fly.

Posada Del Arte

Our amazing, hotel Posada Del Arte, was just jammed full of quaint artworks. A very interesting place to stay.

That evening we took a stroll around Banos and enjoyed the main square, plus seeing all that was happening. I loved the murals we saw.

“We take photos as a return ticket to a moment otherwise gone” – Katie Thurmes

“The purpose of life is to live it, to taste experience to the utmost, to reach out eagerly and without fear for newer and richer experience” – Eleanor Roosevelt

 

PHOTO ALBUM—>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/i8LkpKnbkySaNTpq9

July 11th, day 4 of our Ecuadorian adventure:

Once again we were served a divine breakfast. We really were spoilt every morning by the breakfasts. Our driver  for the day was Milton and we were off heading to Quilotoa crater lake.

Driving with Milton was one continuous educational adventure. Milton is just incredibly knowledgeable about every aspect of Ecuador. All along the route we took he pointed out the many different crops and farms.

He stopped for every, and any photo opportunity for me, (so much for John’s impatience). 

Next, in another area, all the green houses, these are for the flowers and roses that are grown for export. There were/are miles and miles of them. Flower exportation is very important, in 2021 Ecuador exported $937 million in cut flowers, making it the 3rd largest exporter of cut flowers in the world. That shows how many green houses there are in Ecuador.

1st we were shown the area in a nearby town where the clay and pottery works were centered. The pottery being on sale by the roadside. Again multiple choices for the pottery shopper.

We saw all manner of stalls along the side of the road selling anything from crabs to ice creams.

Further along farmers were harvesting wheat, oats, and other grains.

Fields of potatoes, cassava, corn and other crops. Did you know? Ecuador is estimated to have about 350 varieties of potatoes, but only 14 are commonly found in the markets.

Milton pointed out the alfalfa which he told us was for, “the feeding of the guinea pigs!” He stopped to show us the guinea pig hutches. 

The shepherds with their flocks of sheep, tethered Lamas, and alpacas were other sights along the way,

followed by the chicken and egg farms, plus fields of dairy cows.  The country is very rich in farmed foods.

Did you know Lupins are grown for their seeds? The seeds are dried and eaten. We saw fields and fields of beautiful blue Lupins.

The indigenous farm homes were pointed out. They were literally cut into the land where they blended in completely.

We stopped at an artist’s small studio and shop.

There we watched as he painted a lovely landscape. He and his wife were so very proud of their studio. And, yes, we bought one of his paintings.

Canon del Rio Toachion

We could see in the distance a winding canyon or gorge. It had incredible twists and turns with such steep sides. Milton asked if we wanted to see? Of course we did, he stopped and we visited the top of the canyon.

The Toachi Canyon can also be known as the Canyon of the Toachi river. It is a product of the pyroclastic flows from the eruption of the Quilotoa volcano. The last eruption happened around 1280 and was one of the largest volcanic eruptions in the past 1000 years. We never saw the bottom of the canyon it was that steep and deep.

Off again we drove arriving at:

Quilotoa crater lake

Quilotoa is a water-filled crater lake and the most western volcano in the Ecuadorian Andes. “The 3-kilometer-wide caldera was formed by the collapse of this dacite volcano following a catastrophic VEI-6 eruption about 800 years ago.” 

The lake is spectacular having a turquoise greenish color as a result of dissolved minerals. We enjoyed the view and then proceeded to walk to the lakeshore.

This is quite, well a very  steep hike and I only had sneakers on so found it challenging as the path down being quite worn was not for sneakers. However going carefully over the loose rocks I made it safe and sound down the 1,000ft. The views on our way down were wonderful! 

It took an hour to reach the lakeshore, which apparently is about an average time.

The lake shore wasn’t half as scenic as the views from above. It was a bit worn looking, I supposed over used. We looked around and then thought about heading back up.

I had no doubt that I didn’t want to walk back up. There were horses to hire for $10 that would take the weary to the top.

Off John set to hike up. I sat and waited for a horse. After about 15 minutes a guy appeared with 2 horses. I was very happy to hear him say, “ Señora Yenny, caballo?” John had told him I was awaiting a horse. By then others had arrived for a horse to take them back to the top.

Off we went, the ride up was wonderful, but very, very steep with big drop offs just off the side of the path. I totally enjoyed it and managed to take a few pics across the ears of my ride. 

Meeting John at the top, who was very pleased with his walk up, his achievement as he managed the climb in just over an hour. The average time is 2 hours, so he squashed the time by 1 hour. H does tend to push himself.

At the top we went for a light lunch at a cafe and then met up with Milton. 

Off we zoomed stopping to buy a delicious local ice cream made for all natural fruits.

Next, we headed over the mountains to Banos. The mountain scenery in the late afternoon sun and cloud cover was spectacular! Again like being on the top of the world.

Our hotel Posada Del Arte, a very cute artsy hotel in the middle of Banos.

“The most beautiful in the world is, of course, the world itself.” – Wallace Stevens

“Blessed are the curious for they shall have adventures.” – Lovelle Drachman

 

PHOTO ALBUM —>>>. https://photos.app.goo.gl/oG2y3MAg3pqeymnSA

 Cotopaxi National Park 

Our driver Jose picked us up at 8:30, bags and all we set off for Cotopaxi National Park. 

The drive was of course 1st out of the city and then along the Pan-American Highway. Which I should add is a very impressive road. In the distance we could see the mountains and volcanos. 

We turned towards the national park and the scenery soon became spectacular. Passing fir trees Jose explained that they are an invasive species 1st introduced from Australia. They are now grown for the logging industry. The firs destroy the land where they grow as nothing will grow under them and the earth is ruined from their needles.

We stopped at the park entrance station. There we had a look at the information about Cotopaxi and the surrounding area of Andean grasslands, called Paramo.

We enjoyed a hot drink, l had a Cacoa tea which helps with the altitude as we were steadily climbing higher.

After which we headed for a walk along the nearby the station parkway, to see how the altitude was affecting us. Other than being a little breathless I felt fine. Funnily I was most affected when taking photos, as I tend to hold my breath when shooting photos. (Steadies the camera).

John felt fine, basically like normal. Jose pointed out the differing plants and some of the distant scenery.

Back at the car we set off to climb Cotopaxi. I was under the impression we would not take long to get there, I had no idea how high up we were going to drive. 

The scenery gradually changed, but remained wonderful. The clouds drifted across, as we were truly in the clouds.

The soils were the dark of the volcanic area, but in some places there were streaks of red. The Andean grasslands, called paramo were seas of differing greens that seemed to sway in the winds. 

Cotopaxi emerged from the clouds, such an awe inspiring sight. Closer and closer we got but still so far to go.

Round and round the bends the road went, up and up we went, it really felt like the top of the world, like we were driving over the edge of the horizon.

Arriving at the snow line we continued past patches of snow up the steep lava gravel of the roadway onto a very high car park. 

Jose made me aware of the strong winds blowing and to hold tightly onto the car door so as it would not blow off. And I can honestly say it was difficult to open the door and hang on to it. The wind was that strong I felt like I could be blown away. Plus the clouds were making everything damp and so even colder……

Plus, it was FREEZING! I could not face the direction the wind was coming from as the cold wind was painful! It burned my eyes and whipped my face.

As for walking, that was difficult! We had the option to walk up to the volcano refuge, which we could see through the cloud,

but it was an hour away and with the weather conditions that day we just walked around the immediate area. Which actually was fine as what there was to see was the view before you. 

Photos just do not do justice to the dramatic view from 15,250 feet. It was awesome looking out, just as if you were on top of the world, above the clouds at times. Up where the condors fly. 

On our way down the mountain we were surprised by an Andean fox otherwise know as a Paramo wolf. Its true name is the Culpeo zorro. It is not a true fox but more closely related to a wolf.

It was right in the road scavenging. Jose said that sadly tourists who don’t know better feed these animals and they then end up scavenging. It was such a pretty red furred wolf/fox and didn’t seem phased by us.

Further down the lane Jose stopped to show me the different flowers. I had been questioning him about all the differing colourful ones I could see. So Jose stopped the car and said come along let’s check out the flowers, get some photos and maybe find something special. 

There were the beautiful blue Lupins, the lovely orange Chuquiragua also know as the flower of the Andes, which is also the national flower of Ecuador. 

Jose spotted the Ecuadorian Hillstar hummingbird on the Chuquiragua. These hummingbirds are only found in this high terrain and the only hummingbird adapted to feed on the Chuquiragua, thus it pollinates these flowers. 

I was and am so very thankful for having  drivers/guides who knew all about everything we asked about, plus all the more for the knowledge they shared.

Lunch was at a small hostel restaurant situated in the same Cotopaxi park, El Gran Volcan.

A quiet, outpost where guests stay, can hike and enjoy their surroundings. Lunch was a cooked meal of chicken with rice and salad for me. I was that hungry due to the cold that I ate nearly all of it. 

Our next stop was the picturesque Limpioungo Lake. 

Back in the car we looked out  at the amazing scenery and for wildlife …. we saw a deer. And horses!

Once parked we followed a trail that wound around half of the lake. The scenery was astounding, the colors always changing due to the sun and clouds shifting with the wind.

There were water birds nesting and high above Jose pointed out condors soaring the thermocline.

I think it was the sheer size of our surroundings that really struck me. You realize that you are just so insignificant.

After quite a few stops to enjoy the views we reached a small lookout, I of course took more photos, and we headed back. 

La Cienega Laso

We enjoyed another scenic drive before arriving at our hacienda, La Cienega Laso, where we were staying for the night. Both of us were blown away by our accommodation, it was amazing.

The architecture was old world Spanish colonial, built in 1695, our room was massive and the grounds are incredible. 

The very old eucalyptus trees that line the driveway create an impressive 1st impression.

The walls of the house were built of volcanic stone cut from the surrounding area and are incredibly thick. The house has a colourful past and has been the scene of important historic events. It is known as one of the premiere stately houses of Ecuador.

The doors of the church were hand carved and look as new even now. The furnishings are from the 17th century.

We had a lovely walk around the grounds, a quiet evening and an early night. 

“Traveling it leaves you speechless. Then turns you into a storyteller” – Ibn Battuta

“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but having new eyes.” – Marcel Proust

 

Off to Ecuador

PHOTO ALBUM —>>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/5f4rVYCKtqJFfm8M6

We flew out of Bocas Del Toro to Panama City, on a beautiful sunny day. Being so bright we were able to look down on the lovely Bocas Del Toro area, with its amazing archipelago of isles and long palm lined beaches.

The following day July 7th we set off from Panama City to Quito, Ecuador, arriving at 11:00am. Our driver Milton was waiting outside the airport for us. He grabbed our bags and off we drove to Hotel La Ribida. 

I found this drive rather odd, because we arrived in what Milton called Quito Valley or Quito Lower at 2,800m or 9,186ft. And then drove to the city which was above us at 2,850m. We literally could see the tall buildings up above us as we drove from the airport up a winding road to the city of Quito. I knew Quito was one of the highest cities in the world, but this approach really illustrated the fact.

Our hotel La Rabida was in a suburb of the business area of Quito. 

After dumping our bags we went for a walk around the neighborhood to try to acclimatize….yes, we could feel the altitude. It made me feel a slight pressure in the back of my head and a lack of energy.

The tiendas were quite typical of what we were used to, but the fruits on sale were for me was amazing! I saw star fruit the size of large papayas aka pawpaws. Plus there were quite a number of fruits that I had never seen before. The fruit vender tried to give me the names, but I had never heard of them.

We decided we would definitely try them over the next 2 weeks. We wandered back to our hotel and had a very early night…..as said, the altitude was causing us to feel exhausted.

In the morning of July 8th, we enjoyed a lovely breakfast at the hotel and then met Jose our driver for the day. The morning was bright and sunny so Jose headed to:

Pululahua Reserva Geobotanica

 This large valley was actually in the crater of an old volcano. The view was spectacular! Jose explained that there are 105 volcanoes in Ecuador. 84 volcanoes are on the mainland and 21 volcanoes are in the Galapagos.

From where we stood we could see several peaks of distant volcanoes, they were, Chiro, Pondona, and Pan de Azucar. Down in the crater valley were many lush farms, Jose pointed out some ruins which were from an old monastery. 

The Equator experience and educational tour.

Next stop was the “Middle of the World” park and tourist site. There we were greeted by a guide and set off to learn about the ancient peoples of Ecuador. Before the Incas there were various indigenous tribes the Valdivia being the oldest known, dating back to 3,500BC.

We went into a recreation of an indigenous home. We were told about how the men hunted. Shown the various artifacts, from the hunters.

The guide explained about the process of the ancient ritual of shrunken heads. We were shown a recreated shrunken head, quite nasty! After which we were told and shown the women’s role in the indigenous tribe of that time. There was a lady weaving the plant fibers creating a basket.

Following this we went outside to the equator exhibition. There our guide explained all about the equator and showed us different simple experiments. For example we stood one foot in the northern hemisphere and one foot in the southern hemisphere. Experiments that proved how water flows clockwise in the north and anti clock wise in the south, how the shadows vary, all entertainingly  shown and told. It was a fun half hour. 

I spied a beautiful long tailed humming bird flitting around, such a lovely bird. It certainly distracted me. And another unknown yellow bird feeding on corn.

Jose next drove and stopped at the official monument to the equator. This was just for a picture and a stroll around with Jose. 

Jose next suggested we try a locally made ice cream. It was a sherbert, made from differing fruits, frozen in layers. What an amazing treat, it tasted wonderful!

Our tour of the old colonial city of Quito

Across Quito Jose drove to park above the old city on the top of a hill. 

This part of Quito is home to one of the best preserved historic centers in the Americas. It is a one of a kind UNESCO World Heritage site. And of course the tourists attracted vendors, artists and musicians, of all types. We parked and walked to the:

 Basilica of the National Vow, the most amazing cathedral. 

The Basilica of the National Vow is a neo-Gothic style church, considered to be the most important in Ecuador in terms of style, and one of the most important in the Americas. This basilica was inspired by Notre Dame de Paris; its construction began in 1892, (when the first stone was laid), and was completed and sanctified in 1988.

The Basilica of the National Vow is known for its gargoyles on its façade, as well as animals endemic to the country and the region, such as: alligators, turtles, blue-footed boobies, monkeys, pumas, among many others.”

There are two towers which you can climb, but Jose had insider information and we passed along to the elevators and zipped up to the top level just below the stairs for the tip-top of one of the towers. 

From there, up we climbed to the very top. Oh, what a view of the whole of the old city, and the rest in the distance. Quito is a very large city with 2.8 million inhabitants. We were fortunate it was such a clear day and the view was perfect.

The architecture of this cathedral was incredibly detailed, just magnificent. 

The way to our next destination was down a narrow, steep, street. I was soon to find out all streets either lead uphill or downhill. We were both very entertained by all we saw along the streets. There was much happening, the old city is very popular and so busy.

We arrived at another important church: 

The Compañía de Jesús

“This famous church, known by many as the Golden Church in Quito, is a sample of the enormous cultural and artistic wealth that the historical center of the city holds. The Compañía de Jesús has magnificent internal ornamentation, topped with gold leaf that covers a large part of the church. In fact, the Church of the Compañia de Jesus “is the most representative and important baroque temple in Colonial America, having become one of the most important religious monuments in the historical center of the city of Quito” (Jesuítas Ecuador, 2020). Construction of this architectural jewel began in 1605 and was completed in 1765. Between 1987 and 2005, the church was completely restored.”

And, yes, everything about this church is wondrous. The detail in the works of art that adorn every space, the shimmering surfaces, the sheer size, it really is an amazing masterpiece. We visited and passed other quite amazing churches, with wonderful architecture and art works. It seemed at every corner and square there were huge, houses of worship. Jose told us that in this Quito’s Historic Center there were around 30, old churches, and monasteries.

After walking around looking at various sights, the Presidential Palace where there were guards on duty,

ice cream venders mixing their all natural fruit ice cream, musicians playing to the crowd,

and artist displaying their various arts we ended up at:

Yumbos Chocolate, 

here we were treated to a cup of hot chocolate and an amazing brownie. This is just one of the many chocolate makers that use the Ecuadorian cocoa for their special chocolate. 

Lunch was at Querubin restaurant, this was on the second floor balcony. There was a choice of many dishes, all looked tasty, but we both settled for a sandwich as the chocolate had taken the edge off our appetite. 

 The Basilica and Convent of San Francisco catholic church

was our next stop. It stands in the historic center and is the oldest and most significant religious site in Ecuador. The structure is the largest architectural complex within the historic centers of all South America.

It is considered a jewel of continental architecture for its mix of styles. The interior was absolutely amazing! It was just decorated with such detail. An awe inspiring work of art. One little detail I loved was an arm and hand reaching through the wall. 

 Independence Square, and the immediate area was where we wandered next. We both enjoyed seeing all the varied crafts for sale, plus the selections of fruits and other foods that venders had on offer.

Jose told us about the history, the culture and what we could see the next day when we were free to roam the city. 

July 9th, off to explore Quito 

After another great breakfast we set off to walk to the park that Jose had told us about.

The Parque La Carolina

This park is 165.5 acres and right in the middle of the central business district. We were both really surprised by all the different types of sport being played through the park. Everywhere there were areas for football games, volleyball games and other sports.

Large children’s play areas, picnic areas, walking and running paths, biking lanes, just so much on offer. Everywhere was wonderfully kept, families were barbecuing, picnicking and having fun. We walked the whole park, which seemed huge and then headed to the Botanical Gardens found near the middle of the park. 

Botanical Gardens

Here we walked most of the lovely gardens. Many folks were in photography groups enjoying the colourful displays. We entered the green houses, in the 1st one we found the most amazing display of carnivorous plants. 

The next green house was my favorite, it held absolutely wondrous orchids. Honestly these orchids were incredible, some truly looked like little faces. It was hard to believe they were simple, living plants, just magic they all were, of course I took numerous photos of these orchids. 

Lastly we looked in on the cactus. Once again there was a wonderful collection.

By then it was time to move on, so we found a taxi stand and went to the

old city for lunch and a wander. 

We didn’t go into any of the marvelous buildings, we simply enjoyed the streets. Again there were plenty of interesting venders and street artists to keep us entertained.

People to watch, painters, weavers and jewelry makers to watch. Such a vibrant, historic, city is Quito.  

That evening went to an Indian restaurant which happened to be close to La Rabita. There we had a wonderful curry for dinner. It was the best curry we had both had in quite a long time.

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – Augustine of Hippo

“Once a year, go someplace you’ve never been before.” – Dalai Lama

 

PHOTO ALBUM —->>  https://photos.app.goo.gl/4NZ9ZS4PuBHDnS8v9

Isla Escudo de Veraguas

These isolated isles lie about 24 miles east of Bluefields and about 17 km away from mainland Panama. They are uninhabited except for a few Guaymi fishing families. We had never visited before and we were hoping the weather would be calm enough for a few days there. 

We had a the most beautiful sunrise and could see the isles in the distance.

We anchored in an anchorage off of the long beach and sand spit at Long Bay Point on the western side of the isles. There were 2 other cruising boats already anchored. 

What an amazing place we found, incredibly beautiful, a stunning destination. We looked ashore and were just smitten by the beauty.

John went for his nap as he had just finished the night shift and I tidied up. Then we were off excited to explore the shore. 

We went to the small coves opposite where we were anchored and found them to be made up of little islets, tunnels, small lagoons and all so very different from any we had see before.

The shapes formed by the rocks, the rocks themselves, the pattern of errosion, the plant life, all was differing from the norm. Plus, there was beauty around each corner we turned.

We met up with the end of the long beach where there were the skeletons of long lost trees. We both noticed that the birdsong coming from the jungle ashore was quite different from what we had ever heard before.

We landed in just a gentle surf and walked along towards the sand spit at the end. The jungle off of the beach was dense and appeared quite impenetrable. Coconut palms lined the beach, we could hear many differing songbirds and cicadas from the trees in the jungle.

The beach itself was wonderfully wild, except for the regular plastic man made waste that had washed ashore. There was even a trail from a nesting turtle.

I soon found sea-beans in the seaweed, so many I had to stop myself from picking them up as my pockets were full.

It was wonderful to be walking and enjoying a beach once again. All the way to the end of the sand bar we walked and then back.

After which we both enjoyed a swim off the beach and headed back to Aeeshah. 

After lunch we headed out to ride in the dinghy along the shore towards the distant little isles we could see.

What an amazingly scenic shoreline. Again neither of us had seen rock formations as these before, with large fossils of tree trunks.

We decided the rock must be made from a mix volcanic ash and sandstone. The formations created small isles, caves and overhangs all of which had lush vegetation clinging to the sides.

The colors were spectacular, the greens, turquoises, blue hues all blending and contrasting. My camera worked overtime snapping shots.

We wove in and out of small bays enjoying every view. 

The reefs too were amazing, very different from any we had seen before. We went into a bay, tied to a palm tree trunk and headed off snorkeling. 

This was the first time in a year that we were able to have a really good snorkel. In the shallows the water was uncomfortably hot, yes hot! However further out and down deep it was a great temperature. The reefs again I say are like none I had ever seen.

They appear to be very large boulders which are covered in corals. There are no soft corals just hard corals of differing types, sea anemones and such creatures.

Between the coral covered reefs were tunnels and caverns with schools of fish hiding in the shadows.

We both had a wonderful snorkel, after which we just lounged in the water under palm trees. 

That evening we saw the same weather pattern of the previous evenings when in the river. The winds and clouds blew out off the distant mountains. There was a shower and everything cooled down, and we say, “thank goodness.” 

The following morning we headed off towards the other point passing along the long sand spit and across to the distant point.

We really didn’t expect to find much, so we were very surprised to find the same types of amazing scenery as the day before and if possible even more beautiful.

The colors are/were stunning! We could see that the entire outer shoreline was made up of these little isles, tiny coves, tree lined beaches and amazing scenery.

However we were low on dinghy fuel and so had to save that shore for another time n the future. 

We returned slowly along the shoreline enjoying the beauty, passing the area where the local fishermen have a small camp. Not a soul did we see. However that evening a fisherman in a kayoka came by with a smoked lobster to sell us. Yes, we bought it and had it for dinner the following evening and it was wonderful as lobster salad.

John and I set off next to fly his drone. We went to the flattest beach that was along the shoreline where he felt it would take the best pictures of the entire area.

John has been having problems with the drone as the batteries are swelling and other issues so he was only able to capture just a fraction of what he wanted. And basically he needs a new drone as that one flew its last flight. 

Meanwhile I strolled the beach enjoying the walk while swatting away the horse flies. Yes, there are numerous horseflies, they are really persistent and annoying, plus the bite is nasty. After my walk and his flight we enjoyed a wonderful swim to cool down.

That afternoon we went off to the reefs, next to the small cove, to snorkel.

Again it was a wonderful snorkel, amazing corals, lots of fish and varying types and very interesting underwater scenery. 

Once again that evening and night we had the same weather pattern, but this time with more thunder, lightening, wind and some rain. We set the anchor alarm and John was on alert in the cockpit till the early hours, however it proved to be a non event.

The following day we needed to leave. We both love the area and plan on returning, but we needed to get to Bocas for a number of boring reasons, dinghy fuel, wifi, etc. We will return……

We were very curious as to why these isles were just slightly different from the norm, almost surreal, looking at the rock formations, the jungle, the birdsongs and underwater too. After a bit of research I found out why …….

For anyone who is interested in reading more about this amazing gem of Isla Escudo De Veraguas.

Separated from the mainland for approximately 10,000 years their plant and animal life have developed independently from mainland Panama. There are several endemic species, the pygmy 3 toed sloth, various bats, lizards, trees and more. There was a study conducted by the Smithonian Tropical Research institute in 2017. This was the 1st in depth study. A book was written in conclusion to the study. The article and info can be found here: https://stri.si.edu/story/isolated-gem  

The extraordinary is waiting quietly beneth the shin of all that is ordinary. – Mark Nepo

Go back? He thought. No, good at all! Go sideways? Impossible! Go forward? Only thing to do! On we go! – JRR Tolkien