Grand teens discover Guatemala….

 

PHOTOS link here –>> https://goo.gl/photos/9DkRP97tDkXSgcPP7

Grand teens in Guatemala for a month:

IMG_7675After carefully planning and booking the hotels and buses we set off for Guatemala City to meet Ethan and Rhianna for their annual summer vacation with us. The bus was leaving at 9:30, but we got the 7:30 launcha from Catamarans’ into the town and had breakfast at Bruno’s. Plus the swap meet was on at Bruno’s and John wanted to see what was on offer. Turned out, nothing of much value was at the swap meet.

On the bus we had seats at the front, but this makes little IMG_7677difference to being able to look out as the front windows, (except where the driver sits), are curtained closed. I found it quite claustrophobic with only a side window to look out. Anyway we were off. This is quite a long ride for someone who rarely travels by bus, but you soon settle in. The first half was through farming areas with crops of various types and cattle. There was a movie to IMG_7690watch, American movie in Spanish some sort of comedy, which John seemed to like. I just gazed out the window at the IMG_7692passing scenery. After 2 & 1/2 hours we stopped at a lay by with a canteen where we could purchase all types of foods, which smelt and looked great. Off again we went towards Guatemala City, this section of the drive was into and up the mountains IMG_7685where we could see that areas of extensive road work and mining was taking place. Finally we arrived in Guatemala City finding we had to change busses from our big one to a smaller one, as they do not allow the larger busses in the city. Then it was a taxi to the hotel…. 6 hours of travel for about 200 miles, whew!

The next morning we visited a Guatemala City Wal-Mart to see what was there. When we were riding in a taxi back to our hotel there was: BANG! An explosion and smoke rising on the left side of the taxi as he swerved across the road. No it wasn’t a gunshot. More or less instantly a cop appeared, the taxi driver tried his best to move the car just reaching the curb where he apologized and waved down another taxi for us, apparently John said the left front brake had seized, over heated causing the wheel to seize and us to skid.

IMG_7698IMG_7699Off we went in another taxi to meet Ethan and Rhianna at the airport arrivals. Their plane was early, we discovered that at Guatemala airport nobody but the travelers can enter, so we had to wait for them outside on the sidewalk. We waited and waited; it seemed hundreds of passengers with their baggage poured out, but no Rhianna and Ethan. After an hour and the airport appearing near empty we finally saw them. They told us that one of their bags had been lost and the lady in charge of lost luggage, Sandra, would not let them through till it was located, which it finally was in Miami. They then arranged for the bag to be flown in that night and delivered to our hotel. Finally they were through and we IMG_7703IMG_7706dropped their only bag off – it actually contained clothes for donation to an orphanage. We all went for a walk and spent the rest of what was left of the day at a nearby mall, of course they did enjoy a Big Mac there.


The next morning we caught the 9:00am bus to Rio Dulce.IMG_7751

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At about an hour from Guatemala City we encountered a hold up. This was in the mountains – where they were doing some “road works” and mining. Well the hold up lasted 3 hours! Our bus literally sat IMG_7743more or less in the same spot for 3 hours! There was time to watch 2 cruddy movies, which were played in Spanish, (I read and watched all the traffic squeezing past and cutting in line ahead). Now in IMG_7720Guatemala road works means pushing anything not wanted off the edges of the roads and down onto the slopes below. While mining seems to mean digging up everywhere, with no retaining walls or such. Huge diggers and equipment just working or parked precariously on huge mounds of soil or massive boulders. So above us we had the mining around us we had road works and traffic. The traffic was mainly made up of massive trucks, IMG_7725as there are no trains all produce is carried by road. Oh and the roads are single lane, but as Ethan noted here the 18 wheeler drivers seem to have an uncanny knack for squeezing passed and making 2 lanes into 3. Another notable point was there were venders wandering up and down in and out of the traffic selling foods, cold drinks, snacks and such. So this indicates that these traffic hold ups are the norm.

Finally we moved off and then the rain arrived, torrential rain and we had trees in the road to get IMG_7734around. When finally we were in Rio Dulce, (in the rain), we managed to secure a ride on a launcha – that’s a river taxi – arriving at last at Catamaran at 8:00pm. It was a long tedious day. Rhianna: “We had the longest ever bus ride of my life, and the longest I will probably ever have”.


20160720_115436Fronteras otherwise known as Rio Dulce20160720_115256

The next day we spent introducing Ethan and Rhianna to Fronteras otherwise known as Rio Dulce. Their reaction was complete surprise to what they saw, it really is quite an incredible “town” you could see just about anything at anytime. Re said: “It was very unexpected. Cars – not afraid to hit anyone. Trucks – carrying cows, around dozens in each truck. Motor bikes – carrying children around of any age, some even driving the bikes!” Re was freaked out by all the guns the rancheros and that the security people were carrying. Now she doesn’t even look twice, Ethan said he was shocked by how vibrant and colorful the town is, “its better than watching a movie as its the real thing.”


Castillo San Felipe

Castillo San Felipe was where we first went exploring. This is a Spanish colonial fort at the entrance to Lake Isobel.

 

 

Lake Izobel is a large 25/5 miles lake at the head of the Rio Dulce. The fort was strategically situated at the narrowest point on the river to protect the Spanish ships against marauding pirates. The Spanish used the Castillo de San Felipe for several centuries, during which time it was destroyed and looted several times by the pirates. We dingied there – it is 2.5 miles from Catamaran Marina. We had an excellent morning exploring this wonderful, well-preserved Castillo, which is also a World Heritage site.

Rhianna: “Today was so much fun! We went to a very large fort, with many caves within it. The fort had an underground entrance to the prison which we went and explored. It had many large towers mainly where the cannons were placed.” After which we went to Sundog for a very tasty lunch.

 


Finca Paraiso

Friday I had planned for us, along with a friend Peter to get a collective – that’s a small mini bus that travels a route picking up and dropping off the locals – to go to Finca Paraiso, our first adventure. We had breakfast at Bruno’s where we leave the dingy, found the correct collective, by walking the street and asking, squeezed in and were off. The driver let us off and pointed to the lane to follow.

There some little girls ran up from a village by the IMG_7763river with some coconuts. They very quickly used their large sharp knives to hack the top open, popped a straw in for us. We “bought” 2 for 10Q – $1.50. They were chilled and very refreshing, only Ethan dared to have a sip.

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Down the lane through the trees we hiked and found the falls. Rhianna: “We went to a super cool waterfall! One side of the waterfall was pouring out the coldest water ever and the other side was pouring out the hottest water ever!”

Finca Paraiso is a unique place. There is a hot river spring, which IMG_7794runs and meets a cold/normal river; they merge at the falls, which drop 12m into a turquoise pool below. So under the falling water there can be warm to hot water, then just off a ways you get cold water. Plus you can go under the falls to a small caves where it’s steamy. The area is very scenic. There were only us 5 plus a few other folks there,  we had a wonderful morning swimming, playing in the falls and climbing the rocks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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IMG_7757Most days we go off to purchase our different foods. The teens have such differing reactions to the town. Ethan finds it very entertaining and interesting while Re seems quite intimidated by the sites and smells. We stocked up on what we hoped would be enough foods for our trip down the Rio Dulce.


Our trip down the Rio Dulce.

Texas Bay was our first destination down the river. John and I had found it incredibly beautiful when we stopped in there several weeks prior. Ethan’s reaction was it was a lovely, peaceful, place with wonderful scenery. Re reported: The scenery was quite incredible!”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our friend Jacque had loaned us 2 kayaks, which were just wonderful to paddle around the narrow canals and the waterways of the area. We all explored and toured the numerous mangrove tunnels, lily ponds, small lakes and neighborhoods of the whole area which covers several squares miles at least.

Rhianna: “When we went for a kayak ride down the river I had a massive spider fall down onto the kayak. After screaming Papa knocked it off.”

 

 

 

The locals and some forigners have their homes right in the mangroves. I couldn’t live like that as I’d be a meal for the mosquitoes, but they seem unaffected by the no-see-ums and mossies. There is a small bar and restaurant there run by an American and his local wife. We went for dinner on our second night and despite the bug repellant I was bitten all over my feet and legs by the beasts. Re also was bitten, but I seemed to be the main meal. No I’d never live in or around the mangroves.

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IMG_7934Agua Caliente

Close to Texas Bay is the hot sulphur springs and limestone IMG_7917caves. We dingied to the area through the mangrove canals on our second day and had a tour. It is located just as the walls of the gorge reach the lake of El Golfette. Now the pathway leads uphill through the jungle to a small cave entrance. Here our guide showed us the way deep into the network of limestone caves and passages. Some places we climbed right under having to nearly crawl, other places were narrow and we had to IMG_7919squeeze by. He showed us stalactites, stalagmites and columns explaining in Spanish how they are formed. Re and Ethan were able to translate much of what he said and John and I really did pick up much of the explanation too. The guide showed us where the tunnel leads to a huge chamber, where there are fossils and took a picture of us there. Then he finished up by showing us the bats hanging at the entrance.IMG_7923

From there we went to the hot spring, which is referred to as a sauna. Again we trekked through the jungle to a cave entrance. Here only a few at time could enter, so I went in with Ethan and IMG_7954Rhianna. Well it was as hot as hell! Instantly you are covered in sweat, just melting, dripping, unbelievably hot. The teens climbed down the ladder to the hot water pooled below and found it boiling. They quickly exited; I stayed and climbed down with John to feel the water. It’s only hot on the surface and then cold underneath, thus forming all the steam billowing upwards. When I exited the cave it was into what felt like air conditioning even though the temperature was in the 90s. Apparently I looked like I had been swimming, I was that wet. Rhianna: We went to the hot springs today and into caves where there were bats. In the caves we followed the pathways and had a ton of fun. Just below the caves there were hot springs. The hot springs were so hot that I had to leave straight away!

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Down the gorge…

We had an excellent several days in Texas Bay, but there was no wifi. Yes, the teens survived without using their phones. Our plan had always been to get to Livingstone for July 30th, stay the night, ride the high tide across the bar and head to Belize for a short visit and to snorkel the reefs. We enjoyed a wonderful trip through the gorge. Both Rhianna and Ethan were as in awe of the journey as everyone is who makes it. It really is just incredibly beautiful and absolutely amazing to do the trip on a sailboat with the gorge at your sides.

Arriving in Livingstone we had a signal! But the news was not good. Unfortunately forming off the Eastern Caribbean area were 2 questionable areas. One of which did just today, 5 days later pass over Belize and skirted southern Guatemala. The trip was called off. Showing them the weather charts, explaining the outcome of what could happen they accepted the news that the Belize trip not possible.

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We visited the town of Livingstone, which again is a very different place. Livingston is noted for its unusual mix of Garifuna people’s and their traditions. All the black communities living on the Caribbean coast of Central America are commonly called Garifuna or Black Carib, or as they refer to themselves, Garinagu.

IMG_8152Re had her hair braided. We were followed all through the town, to the playas and encouraged by a very large lady to get Re’s hair braided. What started off as just 2 braids turned into a full IMG_8179head weave. “Cause she has too much hair for two” she told us. Anyway Re had wanted her hair done for the past few years and now it has happened, looks lovely and she is much cooler. Rhianna: Livingstone is a very lively place, and I guess thats where its name came from. Today I got my hair braided into 8 braids. It looks very nice. We went through the markets and picked up a few groceries.” 

We had an excellent lunch, explored all over the town, showed IMG_8183the teens the local laundry, which shocked them, went back to the boat and headed back up river.

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Our last night we anchored off a small island at the beginning of the Golfete Lake.

It was lovely and peaceful. Again we were visited by children in dugouts they had baskets and little carved boats for sale. Ethan had bought one beautiful basket at Texas Bay. He bought his sister another lovely basket, I chose another and John IMG_8050purchased a boat. The craftsmanship is amazing and at only 20Q apiece they are amazingly inexpensive. We gave the children a lolli pop, each which seemed to make them very happy.

Back at Rio Dulce we tied up at Catamaran. No sooner than we touched the dock Chico was off the boat, onto the dock and heading off. His attitude was one of, “thank goodness that trip is over now let me enjoy myself”. We enjoyed getting our ton of laundry cleaned and stocking up on fresh supplies. Believe it or not one half of their visit was nearly over!

 

 

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How we pay attention to the present moment largely determines the character of our experience and, therefore, the quality of our lives. – Sam Harris

Not only is your story your truth, your story is going to be the platform and the foundation for everything that’s getting ready to happen in your life.  – DeVon Franklin

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