PHOTOS LINK —>> Portobello, Isla Linton and Panama city
Aeeshah was to be left in Linton Bay marina under the care of ships cat Chico while we travelled “home” to Bermuda. We had several weeks to enjoy and ready the boat for our departure. Our first stop along the coast was:
Portobello.
We had previously enjoyed Portobello and had thought about stopping there on our way along the coast from Shelter bay, but the seas and weather forced us to stop there this time. We left Shelter Bay on a morning that according to the few weather stations we use was supposed to be good. Our intention was a few days in the Rio Chadres.
Well upon looking at the sea walls and the seas crashing over them I had my doubts. We did crash our
way through the seas pounding in the entrance of Colon that leads to the
Massive ships leaving the panama canal
Panama Canal. We did valiantly try to proceed along the coast towards our destination, but it was hellish and outright scary. Ships were fine and all around, but we were being assaulted. So for just about the 1st time John turned around, which in itself was a major feat and we headed back, not to the marina, but to an area know as
The Flatts.
The area is next to the shipping lane that is used to head to the canal. There we were for 48 hours, ship watching and such. Again we headed out, this time it wasn’t quite as bad and we set way for Linton Bay. However what was supposed to be a 3 hour sail
turned into a 5 hour slog. The seas were up again, the wind died and the angle was not right for where we wished to head.
So Portobello it was.
We ended up spending several lovely days in Portobello while waiting for the correct wind speed and direction to sail. It never did arrive and we ended up motoring. Meanwhile in Portobello we really enjoyed several great hikes.
1st hike
was up the hillside next to the old fort Cassa Fuerte Santiago to find the ruins of a battery. This was at 
points almost a vertical assault. What had happened 
over the few hundred years since the battery had been built was erosion of the hillside. It was now a 
gorge, where one has to climb the sides. It is a pretty hike as the steep hillside is grassy and looks out over the entire bay. We reach the battery but it is in disrepair so to climb into it one needs to enter the moat and climb the walls. Not looking safe we gave that a skip. Plus I had learnt by then that all kinds of wasps live in nests in such walls and they do not like to be disturbed.
2nd hike
Our next exploration we went to a hostel called Jack’s Place. We had lovely lemonade – real fruit juice from real fruit – and we made inquiries about how to find the path to the ridgeline. We were given ‘directions’ to basically follow a lane out back to a stream then take a path. So off we went, after a while finding what we figured was the path through the jungle heading uphill.
This was a really lovely hike. The 1st part being through the jungle had some mosquitoes and such, but with beautiful butterflies too, fantastic birdsong and great tall trees. Then we entered an area that had been cleared for grazing animals. The hillsides were grassy, with flowers and trees. We passed a farmer and proceeded uphill. Finally reaching the ridge we
found the canons lying facing out over the anchorage and bay. They were just in the grass, mud and cow dung; perhaps they have been left since 
originally being brought to the top of the ridge those hundreds of years ago?
3rd hike
Having covered most of the western slopes around Portobello we decided to hike the eastern slopes through the San Fernando Fort battery that we had on our previous trip explored. John was curious about the path beyond that we had seen previously. So up we climbed, through the forts, once again looking at them and into the bay bellow. It really is very beautiful from above.
1st John explored the upper fort again, climbing its walls and checking the view.
Then into the jungle we went. We found this path again more or less followed a ridge. I think the property line –barbed wire fence – that had been erected created it. It was wonderful hiking through the enormous trees, again listening to the birds. Sometimes we actually saw the birds, but most time they are well hidden in the foliage. We did see 
plenty of interesting insects and spiders. John being the “leader” was plagued
by spiders and their webs, guess that comes with being the leader. We could hear the Howler Monkeys off in the distance and really hoped to see them, but never did. Well we hiked about an hour and a half trying to reach the other end, wherever that might be just to reach basically a dead-end. We could have bush-wacked our way onwards, but felt in the heat, with less than half our water left we should head back. The journey back took just 45 mins.
Linton Bay Marina
We arrived in Linton Bay and spent a few days at anchor. We were happy to see some friends of ours there. 1st a Canadian couple Dawn and Randy whom we had met at Shelter Bay. Then Sorren arrived. We had not seen Sorren since Christmas and New Year in the San Blas. In fact he had been in the San Blas for 5 months, basically living with the Kunas. We had some very enjoyable evenings with everyone sharing stories of travels and adventures. We showed Sorren around the area, where to get what and how to get there. back in semi civilization was very strange for him.
Mangroves
One day we dingied through the mangroves with Sorren. It was absolutely beautiful. The reflections in the water were just perfect for a picture. Another trip through we picked up some boys on a kayak and towed them to where they wanted to go. They had a blast!
Biking
Once we were in the marina we were able to enjoy our bikes. Sorren too has a bike so we set off to see what we could find.
We left the marina and in Puerto Lindo we left the hardtop for a dirt road that followed the shoreline. Well sort of followed the shoreline, it still had hills and cut inland.
I love riding my bike and even the hills in 90 degree temperatures with little breeze its worth riding, 
(mind you I usually push it up the steep hills). We passed the Panamarine entrance, continued on to a small fishing settlement, 
Jose del Mar, stopping to take pictures. Onwards along pathways through another small settlement, along a pathway through properties on the shoreline until we could go no further. We found a shelter built over the bay reached by a “bridge” of bamboo; there we had a simple picnic lunch before heading back. It was an excellent day!
Isla Grande
Near Linton Bay is an island called Isla Grande. The local weekend tourists love it and so we knew to visit on a weekday. We dingied across and tied up at the small dock that we guessed we could use. Our objective was to walk to the lighthouse, so off we set.
Isla Grande has no roads just a concrete trail along the
shoreline which goes from one end of the island to the other.
Heading east we enjoyed the quaint shoreline buildings. They were all colours with multiple decorations from shells to tiles to make each distinct in its own right. The islanders obviously take pride in their properties. There was no trash, which 
was a refreshing change from the mainland.
Having reached the pathway heading up we assumed correctly it lead to:
The lighthouse. At the top of the hill there was a good view of the other shoreline looking out to sea. We checked the lighthouse finding it made of cast iron/metal it was not locked but open. So 
up we climbed to the top.
Reaching the top, I kid you not, but the whole structure was swaying in the strong wind. It was quite a creepy feeling to be way up in the lighthouse with the feeling of swaying back and forth.
The views were magnificent; looking down it was quite a ways to fall. I took my pictures and
headed down. We then set off along the same path back the way we had walked and then 
onto the other end of Isla Grande. I was very scenic and easy to see why it was so popular with the local tourists.
Catching local busses
To get cash and supplies when in Linton Bay or any of the
region it requires traveling to the nearest ATM. This is a over an hour in a bus, usually two hours, or an hour in a fast taxi. The least expensive is a bus ride for $2.00 as opposed to maybe over $40.00. Off on the bus we had to travel several times.
It is a real experience traveling on a Red Devil or any of 
the local busses. An experience that everyone should try. The busses are old USA school busses which were left when the Americans left Panama. Each driver has decorated the busses according to his taste, (never seen a female bus driver yet). He drives as he feels speeding up to super faaaassst then for no apparent reason creating along veeerry slowly. Our 1st bus had red plastic interior with red feather trim. The 
outsides are normally decorated with extravagant 
pictures usually including Christ, I guess as a Blessing. The music again is up to the driver’s taste. This can be mind blowingly loud and ugly as in our 1st bus ride or wonderfully rhythmic Spanish tunes. One is lucky to get a seat as the busses are normally full, so try to catch them early. The locals are all 
very friendly and the atmosphere on the bus is one of terrific endurance. Our 
trips took us to Sabanitas where we used the ATM and could shop for supplies in a REY grocery store. Everyone needs to travel on a Panamanian bus!! And experience the Panama traffic “rules” or is it lack of “rules”.
Across Linton Bay one evening
Panama City
Before flying back to Bermuda we spent 2 nights in 
Panama City.
We visited the old city Panama la Vieja, which I found fascinating 
and enjoyed wandering around looking at the old architecture.
Pedrarias Davila founded it on August 15th, 1519. It was the 1st European settlement on the Pacific shores. Through it travelled all the gold that had been stolen on its way to Portobello and Nombre de Dios where it was loaded onto ships to head to Spain.
Henry Morgan along with 1200 men raided the settlement in 1671
and reduced most of the city to ruins. A new city was built nearby at Cerro Ancon in 1673 where today the old quarter is closed to traffic and very pleasant to wander around the old streets.
We found a fantastic Yogurt cafe where you could choose any flavors of yogurt, all natural and healthy, then put any types of toppings on your yogurt. There we had a wonderful refreshing treat!
There were many old churches and most were getting ready for Easter. In front were sand paintings of Christ.
And of course there was wonderful street art, graffiti!
The modern part of Panama City is quite amazing. It is booming overtaking Miami as the Latin 
American business center.
There are the world’s tallest residential buildings – over 100 floors – other skyscrapers of very interesting design make an interesting skyline.
We found the city easy to walk around, as there are many walk over’s for pedestrians, nice parkways and safe streets.
There are over 20,000 taxis in the city plus an excellent metro both of which are inexpensive, clean making it easy to travel around. We enjoyed our time in Panama City before heading back to Bermuda.
Your life is already a miracle of chance waiting for you to shape its destiny. – Toni Morrison
Ones destination is never a place, but rather a new way of looking at things. – Henry Miller
