Vieques; Chrissie & Ivan visit; heading south….

Isla De Vieques

PHOTO ALBUM CLICK HERE —->> Isla De Vieques

Our time in Vieques started off at Punta Arenas – Green Beach,

at the western end of the island. It was a beautiful shoreline with long stretches of beaches and reefs in clear, clear water. We went ashore with Jo and John and walked along the trails and beaches paddling in the water. Definitely somewhere to visit again one day.

Sun Bay – Sombe Beach

Our second anchorage was Sun Bay next door to the town of Esperanza.

Once again we went ashore this time we walked around the town, found a grocery store and resupplied. We saw a very cool way to gamble on the horses: There was this table that spun and on it where model horses all lined up with numbers, the guy spins the wheel round go the horses, you put you $$$ on the numbers you want and Voila….horse races!! We then had an ice cream while sitting under the palm trees by the beach watching the activity.

Later we took another walk along the trails to see how far away the luminescence bay was located. We never did find out, but we did visit other lovely beaches along the way.

Essenda Honda

Our final stop at Vieques was the anchorage at Essenda Honda,

which is a massive “hurricane” hole. It is a nearly enclosed bay completely surrounded by mangroves, to get in you wind your way through the reefs and find a very peaceful, beautiful, resting spot.

John believed he knew from his Google maps where a roadway was located, off we set to find and follow the road. This involved first finding a way to access the shoreline. Our best bet was to paddle across the shallows by the reef, which we did, tying the dingys to the mangroves.

Once on terra firma we started clambering across the rocks and along the cliffs towards where we thought we would be parallel with the roadway. John from Out of Africa had to drop out as he only had crocs on his feet and crossing the rocks was quite dangerous. Well we 3 reached where we thought the roadway would be a short distance inland. So then we had to bush whack our way up a steep, thorny hillside and the rain started. Not to be deterred by rain, we continued finally finding the remains of what was maybe once some sort of pathway. John tried in both directions to find us a way through, but the thorns were too much even for him and we had to admit defeat. By that stage we were all soaked, but pleasantly cooled off for our return trek to the dingy and back to the boats.

St Thomas

We sailed to St Thomas the next day and anchored in Charlotte Amalie

where we stocked up for a few days in the Virgins. Our intention was to go as far as Deadman’s Bay, Peter’s Island with John and Jo and then to return to meet Chrissie and Ivan who were visiting with us. However this was not what happened, we encountered several problems and had to return after 2 hours of sloughing into winds and seas towards our destination.

Problems were:

Broken throttle cable – which turned out to be that the throttle cable had come adrift from the engine.
Auto Pilot not working – which turned out to be another bolt that had sheared off and also worn its bedding away. John has fixed that for once and all so he hopes.
An engine that would not start – turned out to be a loose wire shorting out.

All these issues took John nearly three days to repair after he bought the parts and solved their puzzling issues. Long story short, we now have a better than new auto bolt in re drilled hole, new attachment for the throttle to the engine and loose wires are tidied and out of way.

We did visit Hassell Island once to walk to the ruins at the harbour side and to enjoy a swim from the beach. At the top where the old radio/signal station was located there was great view of the entire harbour and surrounding area.

Then we visited the other side to do a dingy clean. That was a major job!! Plus then I had to repair all the worn and shredded areas of the cover which was a whole 2 day job. Oh well, the dingy looks 100% better now.

Chrissie and Ivan’s visit

PHOTO ALBUM CLICK HERE–>> Chrissie & Ivan visit St John, BVIs and St Thomas

Caneel Bay, (Honeymoon Beach) and Cruz Bay, St John

We decided to avoid the horrible upwind grind that needs to be taken between Charlotte Amalie and Cruz Bay by heading there during light winds and being in place ready for the arrival of Chrissie and Ivan. Which we did the day before they arrived.

On their arrival date we set off across to St Thomas and the airport via the ferry and the bus to meet the flight.

It was very exciting meeting Chrissie and Ivan neither of them had visited Aeeshah or the Caribbean area before. I had prepped them for their visit with the news like: that showers were a quick rinse off with cold water hose on the aft deck and Chrissie had told me that Ivan was not too sure about this as he was used to 20 minutes warm showers. So we were also wondering what their reaction to the whole cruising scene would be.

The taxi from the airport drove back via Skyline Drive, which took us right over the high hills above Charlotte Amalie. It was very impressive, but the sheer drop offs were a new thrill for Chrissie.

We finally returned to the boat around 6pm just in time for a swim, shower and drink before dinner. All went well.

The next day we dingied into Cruz Bay and did a hike along the Lind Point Trail, the Caneel Hill Trail and the spur trail, all being a loop, checking out the scenery and the look out on the point. The view was beautiful!

Back in Cruz Bay we sauntered around the small colorful shops, picked up a few odds and ends and had a delicious ice cream.

There is an island –Henley Cay, off of Caneel Bay where we had snorkeled some years before. In the afternoon we dingied over to the island and snorkeled the reef there. It was just as gorgeous as it had been years before. We saw turtles, a shark, many fish of all types and coral galore.

It was a lovely afternoon.

Great Harbour Jost Van Dyke

The following morning we headed towards Jost Van Dyke in the British Virgin Islands. We got a spot in Great Harbour not far from the beach and had lunch before heading ashore to explore. After 1st exploring Foxy’s shop we wandered down the front along the beach stopping to see the various interesting sights. Then finished up by having a swim off the beach before heading back to Aeeshah. Dinner that night was at the famous Foxy’s Bar and Restaurant. I really enjoyed my fresh tuna dinner. It was a fun evening.

Benures Bay, Norman Island

Off we sailed the next morning towards Norman Island and anchored in Benures Bay, which was a new anchorage for John and me too. The bay is huge and spectacular. The water a lovely, turquoise blue. After lunch we dingied around and then snorkeled around the shoreline. John was directed to climb the mast for a photo shoot of our couple sun bathing on the deck. The sunset was picture perfect, another lovely day.

Virgin Gorda, Prickly Pear anchorage

It was a longer sail to Virgin Gorda the next morning, but we made excellent time, as the wind direction was perfect. Chrissie and Ivan enjoyed sitting ahead of the mast and sun bathing while gliding along under sail.

We anchored off of Prickly Pear Island, had lunch and went ashore to check our the Bitter End Yacht Club. We strolled the pathway along the shoreline and enjoyed looking at how the other half lives. Off we went afterwards across the bay to Leverick Bay to the local village to visit the grocery store. There we found most of what we wanted before crossing the sound for another wet ride back.

The next day was also spent enjoying Virgin Gorda. We went in the dingy around the other side of Prickly Pear Island where we could look across at Necker Island, owned by Sir Richard Branson. We also walked along the beaches of Prickly Pear, beach combing and poking through the treasures of low tide finding shells for Chrissie to take home. We swam and returned to Aeeshah for a barbeque dinner.

The Baths

The following morning we moved down the coast of Virgin Gorda to the anchorage near the Baths.

The Baths are famous for the large, granite, rock formations above and below the surface of the water. John and I had visited nearly 10 years ago and were looking forward to visiting again. It really is a fun area to explore, through the tunnels, tight spaces; under rocks and in caves one can go. We enjoyed the Baths exploring above water and then snorkeled from the far end at Devil’s Bay all through the rock formations, large pools where shafts of light play and shine down the deep crevices through the tunnels we swam and back to the dingy. It really is absolutely stunning snorkeling in this area!

Deadman’s Bay, Peters Island

After lunch we moved along to Deadman’s Bay, Peters Island. This is another spectacular palm tree lined bay. It has a resort on its shores, which in no way impedes the natural beauty. Again Ivan and Chrissie were impressed with the scenery. Here we had a barbecue and a wonderful evening, Ivan enjoying John’s rum punch while swinging in the hammock watching the sunset.

Salt Pond Bay, St John

The morning arrived and after breakfast we were off this time to Salt Pond Bay, St John.

Now Chrissie and Ivan said there was no way we could beat the last few bays and anchorages, but when we pulled into Salt Pond Cay they were truly impressed. It is a spectacular bay, tucked right in behind the reefs for protection, ringed by lovely beach and with St John’s high, hills behind with hardly a building in sight.

We decided we needed to pick up a few groceries and I thought I could see signs of civilization on the slopes above so we set off ashore to walk and investigate. We followed the pathway from the beach and found the road. This we followed as it steadily wound uphill. The further we went the further we saw we had to go, up and up and up.

Finally at the crest of the hill we saw what looked like a cafe. It turned out to be The Tourist Trap, a very small eatery serving lobster sandwiches, smoothies, cold drinks and a few T-shirts.

By this time we were all needing refreshment and directions to the nearest grocery store. Well a lady called Jenny who runs the place was very obliging; she served wonderful drinks and Mango smoothies and directed us to catch the bus to the Calabash grocery store some miles away.

John and I were lucky to get the bus – Vitram, that was just passing, (they are normally very rare, few and far between) while Ivan and Chrissie recuperated before their downhill return to wait on the beach for up. Our bus ride was like a roller coaster ride; the lady driver was flying round the tight bends and laughing about it, crazy! The Calabash turned out to have all we needed, we thanked a very bored cashier, I think we had been her only customers for some time, and crossed the road when low and behold a bus – Vitram, appeared. Our lucky day, we jumped aboard and were back at the beach with our supplies before we knew it finding Chrissie and Ivan enjoying its waters and shade.

The next day was spent enjoying Salt Pond Bay. We took a hike in the morning along the Ram’s Head Trail to the cliffs at the headland. It is a most spectacular hike that starts off along the shoreline, goes over the hill to the next bay which is a rocky, pebbled bay, then up the hillside to the edge of the cliffs – Ram’s Head, where you climb to the edge of the headland. The views are stunning, the breeze just wonderful and only a few other people were around. It was another excellent morning.

That afternoon we snorkeled in the bay. Again the snorkeling was excellent. We had a barracuda, which had been hanging, around the boat when we first arrived and we were told by another crushing boat his name was Barny. Well Barny the Barracuda was a big boy and really friendly. There was also a turtle, which kept coming up, and saying “hi” to us. Chrissie as Terry named him. Anyway while snorkeling I saw not only Barny and Terry, but also a fantastic display of corals and many colorful reef fish, mainly on the small side but very pretty. John spotted another Barracuda, which must have been Barny’s Dad as this one was massive, just idling away by some sea whips. Again it was a wonderful afternoon. We all loved Salt Pond Bay.

The morning saw us leaving for Charlotte Amalie, St Thomas.

We had a nice sail there going past the other side of Christmas cove, past an island called Little St. James. It had a very, very, fancy estate built on it with its own Egyptian style temple too. Being curious we looked up who owns it. Well this fellow, he’s a multi billionaire, international, wheeler and dealer in all sorts of nonsense, even been in prison. It explained the security in the golf carts watching us sail by.

In Charlotte Amalie there were no cruise ships so Ivan and Chrissie lucked out, quiet shops! We had lunch at Wendy’s as they wanted fast food and to be honest John and I couldn’t remember when we last had it. They visited Kmart and such shops to get what they wanted, and then that evening we had dinner at the Purple Turtle Restaurant.

Their last full day arrived, we all we into the old town and wandered the venders stalls, checked out the shops, strolled around and ended up having a great lunch at Jen’s Place. Very good food and the service had a sense of humor. John had a roti, he was in bliss! Chrissie and Ivan couldn’t get over the number of jewelers and watch shops as one whole street is lined with them. We did have to wonder if it made any sense to open so many of the same kind of shop down one street ??? Chrissie was very impressed with the venders who were selling black market MK bags. So impressed she had Ivan buy her a bag and a purse! Apparently they are just as good as the real thing, only fake, which nobody else will know.

The afternoon we moved Aeeshah around to the bay next to the airport so we could make the 5am arrival time they had been told to make. Yep, the plane left at 8am, but they were told to be there 3 hours ahead. Unfortunately this anchorage got a fair bit nasty during the night, the seas came up and the roll came in and we had a short, rough, night’s sleep. Then as we were preparing to dingy ashore to the beach it started to rain. However it was a short shower and other than Ivan wetting his socks on the deck; all the luggage and us were landed safely ready to hike to the airport. It proved to be a short walk and we were there just after the arrival time, but low and behold hardly anyone else was there. The gates were not opened until 6 am, at which time we said a sad farewell and strolled back to Aeeshah.

I asked Chrissie and Ivan for some feed back about their holiday, in the form of a questionnaire and here it is:

Okay here is our completed questionnaire…..

1. What was your first impression of the Virgins?

We were both in awe with its beauty! (Made me think of Bermuda as more of a pancake!) Also the water was stunning….such a deep vibrant blue!

What did we enjoy most while on board Aeeshah?

The sailing was great! Neither of us had experienced sailing like that so it was a real treat. Infact I enjoyed the sailing so much that I continued to “sail” on land for quite a while after leaving Aeeshah.

What did we find the most difficult to adjust to while living on the boat?

I think for me it was figuring out how to flush the toilet…I managed to bust two, yes two toilet handles in under 48hrs after my arrival. Ivan’s was sleep…he had no problem falling asleep, it was the staying asleep that was tricky for him.

What did we enjoy the most while ashore?

Being able to experience the culture and way of life in each location we visited. Every place we stopped at was different from each other so it was always exciting and picturesque. The hikes we got to do were all very beautiful…. Especially the one to the “Tourist Trap”!

Intermission—– you realize these are loaded questions right?——

What will we never forget?

Oh geeeez, that is tough to narrow down there are quite a few;

-Barry the Barracuda (pet barracuda for two days).

-Getting wet on the dingy every time we went somewhere.

-Tourist Trap.

-Toilet trouble.

-Mom’s toilet plunger laundry technique!

-Realizing Mom and Dad had a forth child (Chico)…..Dad I have seen a new side of you!

-Chico’s reaction to landing a fish on the boat.

-Hearing about Joe and John 10 times a day.

What were our favorite excursions/ places?

Oh the Baths for sure, sublime beauty above and below the sea.

What did we think of the cruising lifestyle?

We were surprised by the amount of people doing the same kinda thing we didn’t realize that there was such a community of cruisers. It’s a really cool way of living….so free…love it, but you must be gutsy!

What did you find surprising about the lifestyle?

Lol….how quickly you adjust to going long periods of time without a real shower!! Oh and how mom could make such good meals in such a tiny kitchen!!!!!

9. What do you miss?

Ivan misses the sunrises and cocktail time (dad’s rum punch). And I miss the relaxation and not having to cook! Lol

– Hands down our trip was amazing…unforgettable for sure. Both the U.S. Virgins and the British Virgins were exquisite; we both want to join you again for another adventure! I have some pretty cool parents….we wanna be like you when we grow up. XO

We left that bay ASAP and motored around to the Crown Bay side where it was calm and we picked up a mooring. John crashed out for a few hours, I tidied up and chilled. Later we set to work on laundry.

Since then we have completed the entire stocking up, cleaning up, refueling, filling up with water and repairs in preparation for the crossing to Bonaire.

Fredrickstad, St Croix.

At present we are back in Fredrickstad, St Croix. This is a wonderful empty anchorage. The beach is 4 miles long, the town is delightfully quaint, the people very friendly and is just the place to wait for a weather window to sail south.

Already we have hiked along the shore side road to the North coast. It was about 4 miles each way and quite lovely. The trees in some areas were just enormous, they must be at least 200 years old. There are ruins of plantations all along the way.

Plus some very unusual compounds. 5 compounds in total that are spread out until the road ends. The signs say, “National Guard section 63 (I think) Weapons of mass destruction & Medical unit” on the 1st gate. Plus all the compounds have signs saying No Trespassing, surveillance cameras, etc….. Plus these places do have dozens of security cameras, razor wire, barbed wire chain link fences, all the grounds are manicured, but for most of them, there is not a soul in sight! Just a jeep or two. Made me think that these must be some big secret interrogation quarters or debriefing centers or such like. Plus they are in along an unheard of lane, in the middle of nowhere on an obscure US island ……..maybe we have been watching too much of the Homeland series?

We wait now to head to the ABC islands where we will spend the next several months. New territory is exciting! We are sad to say goodbye to our friends, but know we will meet again.

For the breath of life is in the sunlight and the hand of life is in the wind. …. Forget not that the earth delights to feel your bare feet and the winds long to play with your hair. – Kahill Gibran

We’re the creators of our own experience – remembering this, and living our lives from this perspective, empowers us. – Mike Robbins